ivan

dunno - i'm still making do w/ olson 2nd edition guide (and eating spam'n'ramen), though the cover long ago detached from the binding and half the pages delaminated (not the story of xavier masters though - no, no, i had to cut those bitches out myself! i think i may actually have wiped my ass w/ a couple of them too) it's a cool poster, but still annoying in that there are a # of numbered routes listed that aren't depicted - wtf?

i'm spartacus!

uh, perhaps b/c there's no definitively defining any of the racial terms human beings have long bestowed on each other? put it this way, obama would be plenty black for hitler, jefferson davis, nathan bedford forrest, thomas jefferson (and for the matter probably george jefferson), plus the whole white cast'n'crew of "roots" at any rate, everyone know obama's not the first black president 'cuz every black person in the world said it was bill clinton like 10 years ago

oh, and yeah, what does "purging the officer corps" mean? was there some fear that any general that agreed w/ bush's war would be cashiered?

There you go with the name calling, Matt. I give a sincere response and you reply as expected. perhaps he just thought you'd agree that we could use fewer nukes than we currently field? seems like our submarine force alone is plenty of assurance - we do we need artillery, aircraft, missile and sub-based systems for? the subs are the most difficult for bad-guys to do anything about, so we not cut 99% of the rest?

joe - did you not see what i wrote about the panel? i done realized its a death-trap! i feel when the nut i had behind a loose block blew, right at the top right of your green box. normally a fall wouldn't bother me much, but i didn't think the fates were with me today to go and fuck w/ that scary panel. "the axe of karma" is a perfect name for the route - if your karma is poor (i've been beating my wife too much lately adn snorting too much V), you get the axe! the heads are still in place, one at the start of silver crow, which i think is the exit left of your yellow dot, and one at the start of axe of karma, the far left not an inconceivably place to free across, but it'll be a very religious expereince, and not one i even contemplated in boots upon hitting hte ground and looking through the pix on my camera, i realized the safest aid option would be aiding below the purple line on the photo - it's more circuitious, and might screw you on the upper part of the pitch, but there's no death blocks there

Trip: Beacon Rawk - Bitch Slapped on the Axe of Karma (5.10c A3 III) Date: 11/8/2008 Trip Report: a dark dreary november sprung in my soul, as melville said, so i went strait for the cure 2 goddamn weeks off embroiled in inlaws and presidential politcs the weather was forecast for 100% suck - it was actually only 50% correct - winds none too bad - rain off and on but never too hard - not as painfully cold as a few weeks ago damn daylight savings - gotta get there earlier these days if you wanna do something long and stupid dawn in the parkng lot waiting for geoff - was he the one tailgating me that the beraged oinker had so cruelly cut out behind me on the drive in? eagels soared and swooped in the forlorn fall air - shrieks and whistles the local weather system was exhilirating - strong winds near the river drove ghost-whispers westwards to portland while a great storm cell threw ceiling-lofting clouds rapidly east, portending downpours and desperation i thought it was finally time to confront the "arena of terror," the far left side of the south side of beaocn that was blasted out in a great explosion a century ago - there were rumors of a great catwalk below the intimitadating rooves - i found them greatly exaggarated our plan - geoff would aid the first pitch of pipeline - a full meal-deal waterfall pouring off crusing and ground zero assured us no free-climbing hardmen would be chomping at the bit and growing bitter waiting for us to clear out - i would then lay siege to axe of karma, a mystery route that has no more beta than a cryptic "5.10c A3 - kb's, la's, rurps and pro to 4" in the olson guide - it looked overgrown, like every adventure route worht doing at beacon, but i figured hey, if its soaking, that's less dust to scratch my corneas this time, eh? staring at the narsty traverse from below, i secrety hoped it would be as sweet as that on "the crack 2 nowhere" - it looked like there were decent cracks to make the traverse - the upper part certianly look brush-fucked and desperate as hell, so i desperatly hoped the a3 bit would be relegated to up there - how ruinous this rumination was geoff raged on the first pitch i need to practice jugging as 2nd - i put on a tour de force of lameness following geoff up the short 60 feet or so to the hanging belay - the rain began to pick up as i set off - my head cleared as i got right under the sweet-ass roof and the weather turned dark and sullen and fearsome shit seemed shirley - a couple aid nuts but then several good cams under the roof cracks - man, hope this holds! - sadly it didn't - looking up above the first one was a goddamn litho-horror-fuck-show - a giant panel of rock maybe 5 feet wide and 4 feet high is seperated from the wall by about 3/4 of an inch - thumping it w/ my palm produced a moan like grandma arrived at auschwitz - i figured i had at least a 50% chance of not dying if i trying put cams behind it - so findsomething else - a thin nut and i was up a bit, then what? jesus fuck - where did my goddamn sweet horizontal cracks go? what looked possible from the ground was revealed to be desperate indeed - hooking on crazy-suspect blocks and panels - the roof joints themeselves were totally glued shut - no hope at all, but i've found w/ aid climbing, if not climbing in general, sometimes it's best not to worry too far ahead and jsut work out the shit closest to you and hope the rest gets right - i placed a blind green alien in a horizontal pocket - it bounce tested well and i moved onto it - but then nothing! fuck! after hemming and hawing, i figured i could down-aid back if need be, but should try pushing it at least little further - the rain picked up, but far behind me and impersonal like - i placed a thin nut behind a loose block - bounced on it - moved to it - went to fifi and then...falling...my right leg still in etrier on the alien - the rope not clipped to the alien, i shock the cam w/ my daisy and it blows, me going half inverted and rushing past the roof - faaaaallling! i look up and am dead even w/ geoof again, close enough to lean out and shake hands - he takes a good picture of me and suddnely notices the damage done to my noggin when i foolish blew a lowe-ball while weight-testing it - do i look drunk? "dude, did you just see a real bright light?!?" looking up we see two pieces blown and me hanging lazer-like off a tiny nut, welded to its seam i hold out the judas iscariot dynamic-duo - you have betrayed me! - is it me or does this pic totally need to go to me ma on next mudder's day?!? okay, so i'm not impressed - i've never backed off a climb at beacon (or anywhere really) in my life but this shit ain't going today - i just didn't see it, and w/ these fall days getting short and so much more nasty ground to cover - i figured the pitch would be at least as bad as pipedream and that took 5 goddamn hours! at any rate, touching my head and the yet unglimpsed strawberry that's currently bursting out of my head as i type these pleasing lines, i figured i needed to change my whole attitude, my goddam whole rason'de'etre or whatever those french-fawks say - just re-aiding back to the jesus-nut, cleanign it w/ a hammer and savaging the swage in the process, then down-aiding back to the belay was adventure enough then we ate mesacaline and went jugging up ground zero - our trip was differnet - it was a classic re-affirmation of all that is right and true in the age of obama, but only for those who are full of true grit - and we are damned deficient in that! there are more beacon beatdowns in my future i am certain! Gear Notes: everythign including the kitchen sink Approach Notes: watch out for the slugs and recent 'shroom sprouts on the trail

i remember gettng rolled by a monster wave off ocracoke island shortly after a hurricane hit the outer banks - somehow, after getting tossed along the bottom, ass over tea-kettle 9 or 10 times, i came to the top, utterly unable to breathe - i gasped once, then blew an entire handful of sand out of both my nasal cavities - never have figured that one out quite my favorite simpsons' line ever was from the salty old sea captain: "i hate the sea - and everything in it"

we should blow up canada, eh? them oil sands will pay for the whole endeavor no doubt.

this post clearly lacked a shitload of: thank you for allow an idiot to post!

I've read that Harry Reid might be on his way out (of his leadership position) soon too. He's got ethics issues-a-plenty...and Hillary needs to be thrown a bone. BTW; I thought it was pretty un-classy of Obama to take a shot at Nancy Reagan today. And was it just my imagination, or was Obama talking about his tax plan in the past-tense? i missed this - what did he say of mrs. just-say-no?

maybe they were thinking they'd liek to keep their senate seat republican - figuring even if 8-ball had to resign or got kicked out by the senate that palin could appoint her own bitch (of hell, take the job herself?)

That's the scathing attack I'd expect from you, KK. Been listening to KVI? Some of your friends over at American Prospect don't see it the same way. Ezra Klein Any moron can see that Rahm is a divisive asshole and a left-wing kool-aid drinker. Just like you. strange - i can't remember matt ever calling anyone a cock-sucker or generally acting like a miserable asshole - i DO remember him frequently and patiently explaining his viewpoints and trying to understand and debate those who disagree w/ him - i'd say he seems like you're pretty ideal free thinker (liberal though that might make me) you think that being a flamehard makes you better?

greet tr d00d! could use a hair more colorful language though

you mods are seriously harshing on my spray vibes!!! and what's the deal w/ the 1 min lockout!!! i can spray in my mind like 20,000 times faster! faster! FASTER!

anyone mentioned hitler n' blondie yet?

another, better, meaning for "right on target!"

You've a stronger stomach than I, she makes me want to vomit. i dunno - a good strong s'n'm flick of her getting raped by a bull while simulatenoulsy masturbating to a jizz-soaked image of reagan in a clown-suit, surrounded by fat fucks in jesus-masks screaming "take every inch of it lord!" and "drill, baby, drill!" could be something other than nausea-inducing, no? palin can be thrown in as the dominatrix lord strap-on-fucking a midget, of course, to expand the appeal and marketability of the whole enterprise, yeah?

my favorite thing about ann coulter is how she was caught going at it w/ bill maher as the zombies attacked the Last Big Refugee of Politicos in World War Z - something about the idea of the living dead munching on her brain candy really does it for me

they werent' putting boundries around that famous locke-ian platitude? even for women, blacks and the poor? i do agree w/ your other point though joe - we can't preach against sins we commit, even if the other bastards do them daily and we only weekly.

actually you did - as tvash says, treaties we ratify become federal law, as established by the consitution which you are sworn to defend - we have signed many treaties that require us to honor the human rights of hadji goatherder

great link - hey, at least the view of the mtn while driving up the road's gotten clearer!

i take it that costco-sized shipment of prozac ain't showed up in time for the post-election holiday pat?

In terram Salicam mulieres ne succedant

naw, you cynical scat-muncher - as you very well know, they were so rude and inconsiderate b/c goddess liberals like you have corrupted our education system, and these riotious bastards simply were never taught the good old fashioned values of our forefathers that have been stripped from us by queen worshippers and elton john look-alike contest winners