ivan

but the grade also takes into consideration the difficulty of descent - j'berg and the index traverse earn their grade V, despite having essentially zero difficult or even moderate rock climbing, precisely b/c of the commitment level - listing the # of pitches and crux rating is great, but keep the grade rating too

good thing for medicare or dude woulda been fawked!

nice - wish i was a skinny little kid too!

hey rumr, how'd yer boy do on city park? (speaking of routes that would be good to learn aid on)

Someone asking Ivan about correct aiding ethics and grabbing gear on regular routes.....it stopped me dead in my tracks in wonderment and I had to slow down and re-read it. This is highly and spectacularly irregular..... [font:Courier New](he says while sitting back in the easy chair and grabbing some popcorn)[/font] the "ivan do you...think" bit was more absurd (i think )

what dan said - aid is aid is aid and everyone aids the bolt ladder the best sequence is yard on draw, rest on fifi, repeat - at the top it gets overhanging enough you need a stirrup to get some traction to yard on the draws, so just extend a sling

Nice, thanks geoff! you should have a pair of personal prusiks on you too - if the leader falls and is need of help, how will you escape the belay? these prusiks can also be used to climb the rope.

nice! but geoff, weren't we there before the first week of june, when she said she lost her stuff?

this thread is shit w/o a picture

Thanks for the advice. I might as well do that. Yes, they were up there in July. Who knows about now. i seriously doubt the ones you saw in july were yours or that you'll ever see them again - folks have epic meltdowns on that route routinely (i've been there at least 3 times and seen the evidence), and the left gear is rightfully considered booty (though i've been yet to be fast/lucky enough to claim it!) - i'd look on it as the price of your education

Ivan, I do not know what is best though. My first aided attempt (but w/out Fifi) was a failure when I got on the bolted ladder on Monkey face and had to leave all my 17 quickdraws on it. BTW, I wonder if they are still up there and if someone some time in the future will be climbing the Pioneer route, please, please clean them up and return them to me. I will also post this to LOST and FOUND! funny, i stood in line on that bolt line last spring and watched as the team before me snatched up 17 some odd such left draws! aid climbing's actually retard-easy (thus, the attraction for me), certainly easier than high-end sport climbing - there's plenty of room for stylistic variation, but i can't live w/o my fifi, even on free climbs - some folks don't use'em much though - learning to solo aid climb in particuliar is fun b/c then you don't have to sit around waiting for anything go back to the monkey for revenge - that bolt ladder requires no etriers, just a fifi and towards the top a few extended draws work fine as stirrups.

if they outlaw evolution only outlaws will evolve

might have found your jackets (hope you don't mind the mild smell of mildew if so) - sent you an email - holla at me playa!

good find - i emailed dude - shame i didn't find the pack or rack or i mightn't have spoke up!

you can always just say fuck it and learn to aid climb too

any one know any one who had a real bad winter day on index this past year? rapping off the n peak y-day i found a medium red marmot shell and a small orange feathered friends down parka below the slab w/ the 2-pin anchor. i can't imagine dropping these woulda been so happy anyhow, i'm a gaint and have no need for such small (slightly mildewed) garments - anyone want em?

last year, and i was merely a passenger, but i was instrumental in the safety briefing beforehand

the fact that he's from oklahoma?

"what was for dinner tonight?" "well there was a choice, chicken or fish." "ah yes, i remember, i had the lasagna." - leslie neilson, "airplane"

a LIAR!!!

"they bleed on both sides" - hamlet, act 5, scene 2

i am a pussy when it comes to driving 3 hours just to take a picture and then sweat balls i'dve thought my tr's firmly established my girlishness though?

you could drop bikes off at cascade pass before the closure goes into effect.

why not get dumped off the night before? if you went s to north, would it be open by the time you exited (josh and i did it that way and really dug it, 'especially getting hte shit of bastard creek immediately behind you) there's always the index traverse

fw, you hear there's gonna be some closure on the cascade river rd and checked that it won't interfuckwith yer plan?