Alpinfox

CBS, what sort of accent are you trying to convey here? Gangsta? Rasta? You suck at writing in vernacular.

Yes you.

Damn. That's too bad. I just bought a pair and haven't had a chance to use them yet, but I specifically got the Evo cuz of the goretex and because I knew the older non-goretex versions were not even remotely waterproof. Maybe REI will be getting another return from me?

I heard that the Fairview lost it's liquor license because some drunk chick wrecked her car and hurt/killed someone and is suing them for serving her while she was drunk. Is this true?

Interesting signature line - considering the present topic.

Sounds like you did the West Buttress not the rib? Nice report! Congrats on the summit. Moderators: Mr Flatlander has posted his TR twice. Perhaps one of these posts could be deleted?

Wow.

Holy Shit! A real live Snaffalope! For comparison:

New Marmot "Atom" bag 16oz $229 40deg 900 fill down Marmot "Pounder" bag 16oz 40deg Primaloft Sport $159 Anybody else suspicious about the claim that a 16oz synthetic bag can have the same temp rating as a 16oz down bag?

True. If you are going to haul () or fix pitches ( ), you might want another set of ascenders. However, for hauling, a minitraxion (one-way pulley) would be preferable. Then the hauler only needs one ascender. For jugging (at least on LC), the first can lower the ascenders down the fixed line to the second to avoid carrying more shit than necessary. Keep in mind if you fix the first three pitches, you have to carry an extra rope over the route or drop it to the base and pick it up later. Either = a lot of extra work. Whatever. Good luck. I didn't base my "dumbshit" comment purely on NOLSe's post here; I arrived at that conclusion only after months of observation.

Ummm... how else do you propose to ascend the rope? Bite the rope with your mouth while you slide the other one up? 2 ascenders per person is standard. One wants two ascenders/team (not person) dumbshit.

I can't wait for the T-shirt! Quite an accomplishment. Congrats to those guys.

From the stuff you listed, it sounds like you don't know how to aid. (e.g. Two ascenders/person? Might as well bring the portaledge while you are at it.) Go try a few one/two pitch aid routes at Index with your partner. I also wouldn't underestimate the free pitches up higher. You should be a solid 5.9/10- trad leader if you hope to do the route in a day, even with fixing the first three pitches. As for the aid rack, some offset nuts, small nuts, offset aliens (nice but not required) and one bathook should be all you need in addition to a typical free rack. Cam hooks will speed you up, but they take a bit of practice and some faith.

BOOTY!!! Nice TR. That pic is great.

Did it look like this?

Party central:

Hey why is the censored?

Yes please:

Grasslands is free and lots of people hangin' there. You could find a partner at either place pretty easy me thinks. If you need good driving directions to the grasslands, let me know. I've got em written up and could email them to you.

Everyone does...

My hat? I wasn't aware I was missing a hat. That's very odd. Especially since I haven't been up the Colchuck trail since last weekend. I'll give ya a call.

Are you crazy!?!?!? You should start at 7:42. The real answer depends on how fast you climb and what color windshirt you wear and how good you are at route finding and how many neutrinos you find - finding those neutrinos can be really distracting. As for the rack. Take a few nuts, a few small cams, and a billion quickdraws. Most people have to do a reconaissance trip to figure out the route finding before they actually get all the way up. There are many, many, many better routes to do than IB.

Nice TR Eric, Thanks for sharing and welcome to cc.com.