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Alpinfox

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Everything posted by Alpinfox

  1. I climbed Stuart Glacier Coulior in May of 2002 wearing uninsulated leather hiking boots. My feet got REALLY cold and I lost feeling (or had tingly/weird feeling) in pretty much all of my toes. This lasted for several days which bothered me because I was leaving for Denali at the end of May. I decided to go to AK anyway and just tried to keep my feet warm and pay lots of attention to them (wiggle wiggle wiggle). A week or so after the end of the Denali trip, I got feeling back. Toe warmer packs are a great idea.
  2. I'm surprised the (other) science weenies have left this error uncorrected for so long! It should be 9.8m/s *s! And of course, your actual TIME of descent would be given by square root of 2h/g where h=height and g=9.8m/s*s AH.... I feel so much better now. Is that ankle back to 10*10% now ML?
  3. I also took ginkgo before going to Denali and did not have any AMS problems. Anecdotal, but that's two of us. One of my partners got AMS at 14K and took Diamox and was fit-as-a-fiddle within 12hrs. However, I think he was taking Ginkgo too, so I guess it didn't work for him.
  4. Bwahahaha!!!! Holy shit! Is this Catbirdseat!?!?!?
  5. Alex said: It is technically easy, yes. The crux of the route has always been the weather and logistics. Not always:
  6. Ken near top of first pitch: Ken at the base of the second pitch: Ken leading 2nd pitch: The left side of Amazonia wall; our second climb went up the left skyline to the base of the pillar near the top and then cut left (because Ken wimped out, HA!): Ice formation on the center of Amazonia wall comes from the "Luxurious Drippage" mentioned in the guidebook. The bending of the icicles due to wind was quite impressive: If Ken would get a digital camera so I could have some nice pictures of ME for a change, then I wouldn't post embarassing pictures of him like this:
  7. bp could charm his way into an NSA meeting. Dat boy is SMOOOOOF!
  8. you gonna get the first ski descent? There was some snow on the ledges of north facing climbs (Ginger Cracks) when I was there last week.
  9. The full-length version of that well story is in "The Wild Muir" which is the same place I got the Mt. Ritter story. It's a nice collection of some of Muir's first person accounts of his more death-defying adventures, but it seemed a bit ragged and I think reading his books is a better way to get to know Mr. Muir. The first story in the book is about young Johnny Muir and his brother's excursions onto the steep roof of their Scottish farmhouse in the middle of the night. His brother slipped and nearly slid off and then froze up. Johnny had to rescue him and talk him down, all without waking up the parents which, apparently, would have been worse than falling. Muir was da shizzle.
  10. I have a WM ultralight and I haven't been disappointed, but I don't have your fat ass problem. It has been warm enough (when I wear my belay jacket inside it) on winter trips and a June night on Liberty Cap with high winds (inside a tent). It's really light and appears to be very well made. I wouldn't mind if they put a small draft collar in it though. Check out the WM "Megalite" which is the fatman's version of the Ultralite (64" shoulder, 1lb 8oz, 30deg), but not as warm. http://www.westernmountaineering.com/ba_MegaLite.htm I have heard that REI tends to overestimate the warmth of their bags so I am skeptical that the subkilo is as warm as they claim. Also, in my limited experience handling one, it seemed underfilled and the down was kind of clumpy. REI bags PMS does carry WM Ultralilte and some other WM bags. Don't know if they are in stock. Email/call www.promountainsports.com
  11. and it was shot ON LOCATION which is pretty impressive.
  12. Dru and Kurt, There is a rap sling girdling a tree on the descent from "The Kone" (I think) at Darrington. I didn't have a knife with me or I would have cut it off. Snaffles ain't doin' their job apparently. Silly thing is that there is an easy walk off to climber's right/skier's left of this rap sling -it's only 15/20m off the ground - so it is not necessary at all. I don't think are too interested in chewing on nylon unless it has a lot of salt in it (pack straps, old ropes, clothing, Dru's codpiece, etc).
  13. I didn't see no red miata in da lot yo. When I wasn't lookin' fur you, I did some reeeel nice climbin'. Ginger Cracks with snow on da ledges (sweet route) and Olive Oil (chimney thrutchin' wif a cuple nice pitches in da middle) for multipitch trad, otherwise did the sport monkey gig. Got my second 5.12 "viagra falls" THUMP THUMP . My favorite sport route at RR is "Running Man". Damn nice route. Climbed wif da GF, dbb (aka Alpine Dave), and a coupla docs (I'm accident prone so I like to keep at least one around at all times). All fun peoples and we had a merry old time except for dat rappeling in the dark fiasco when GF got her hand caught in the belay device. She's OK now, thanks for asking. Visited Grand Canyon. Reel purty wif da snow and all. "Desert View" is the best view of the canyon if ya ain't gonna hike. I'd post pictures (I got lotsa good uns) but my housemate destroyed my computer while I was gone so I can't download em from my camera. How bout that shizzle! Ya'll just hafta wait. Peace Out -AF p.s. WHO WANTS TO GO ICE CLIMBING!!! caveat: I'm a newbie. edit: YO YO YO! Alpine Dave in da HIZOUSE: http://students.washington.edu/dbb/cragging/red_rocks/red_rocks.htm
  14. A bumper sticker I saw recently: FUCK YOU YOU FUCKING FUCK!!!
  15. Alpinfox

    GWB and the GNP

    Here's a little campaign poster I just made. ME! I made it! Hear that minxy!!! p.s. So how do I make the image appear in the post without uploading it to the photo gallery first and then linking it from there? p.p.s. Thanks Mr.N
  16. It's been posted plenty of times before, but IT'S SO GOOD: RESUME: GEORGE W. BUSH The White House, USA PAST WORK EXPERIENCE: I ran for congress and lost. I produced a Hollywood slasher B movie. I bought an oil company, but couldn't find any oil in Texas; company went bankrupt shortly after I sold all my stock. I bought the Texas Rangers baseball team in a sweetheart deal that took land using taxpayer money. Biggest move: Traded Sammy Sosa to the Chicago White Sox. With my father's help (and his name) was elected Governor of Texas. ACCOMPLISHMENTS: I changed pollution laws for power and oil companies and made Texas the most polluted state in the Union. I replaced Los Angeles with Houston as the most smog-ridden city in America. I cut taxes and bankrupted the Texas government to the tune of billions in borrowed money. I set the record for most executions by any Governor in American history. I became President of the United States of America after losing the popular vote by over 500,000 votes, with the help of my father's appointments to the Supreme Court. ACCOMPLISHMENTS AS PRESIDENT: I attacked two countries. I spent the surplus and bankrupted the treasury. I shattered the record for biggest annual deficit in history. I set the economic record for most private bankruptcies filed in any 12-month period. I set the all-time record for biggest drop in the history of the stock market. I am the first president in decades to execute a federal prisoner. I am the first president in US history to enter office with a criminal record. In the first year in office I set the all-time record for most days on vacation by any president in US history. After taking the entire month of August off for vacation, I presided over the worst security failure in US history. I set the record for more campaign fundraising trips than any other president in US history. In my first two years in office over 2 million Americans lost their jobs. I cut unemployment benefits for more out-of-work Americans than any president in US history. I signed more laws and executive orders amending the Constitution than any president in US history. I presided over the biggest energy crises in US history and refused to intervene when corruption was revealed. I presided over the highest gasoline prices in US history and refused to use the national reserves as past presidents have. I cut healthcare benefits for war veterans. I set the all-time record for the most people worldwide to simultaneously take to the streets to protest me (15 million people), shattering the record for protest against any person in the history of mankind. I dissolved more international treaties than any president in US history. Members of my cabinet are the richest of any administration in US history. (The 'poorest' multimillionaire, Condoleeza Rice has a Chevron oil tanker named after her). I am the first president in US history to order a US attack and military occupation of a sovereign nation, and I did so against the will of the United Nations and the world community. I created the largest government department bureaucracy in the history of the United States. I set the all-time record for biggest annual budget spending increases, more than any president in US history. I am the first president in US history to have the United Nations remove the US from the human rights commission. I am the first president in US history to have the United Nations remove the US from the elections monitoring board. I removed more checks and balances, and have the least amount of congressional oversight of any presidential administration in US history. I rendered the entire United Nations irrelevant. I withdrew from the World Court of Law. I refused to allow inspectors access to US prisoners of war and by default no longer abide by the Geneva Conventions. I am the first president in US history to refuse United Nations election inspectors (during the 2002 US elections). I am the all-time US (and world) record holder for most corporate campaign donations. My biggest lifetime campaign contributor, who is also one of my best friends, presided over one of the largest corporate bankruptcy frauds in world history (Kenneth Lay, former CEO of Enron Corporation). I, with a policy of "disengagement," created the most hostile Israeli-Palestine relations in at least 30 years. I am the first US president in history to have a majority of the people of Europe (71%) view my presidency as the biggest threat to world peace and stability. I am the first US president in history to have the people of South Korea more threatened by the US than their immediate neighbor, North Korea. I failed to fulfill my pledge to get Osama Bin Laden "dead or alive." I failed to capture the anthrax killer who tried to murder the leaders of our country at the United States Capitol building. After 18 months, I have no leads and zero suspects. In the 18 months following the 9/11 attacks, I have successfully prevented any public investigation into the biggest security failure in the history of the United States. I removed more freedoms and civil liberties for Americans than any other president in US history. In a little over two years, I created the most divided country in decades, possibly the most divided the US has ever been since the civil war. I entered office with the strongest economy in US history and in less than two years turned every single economic category heading straight down. RECORDS AND REFERENCES: I have at least one conviction for drunk driving in Maine (Texas driving record has been erased and is not available). I was AWOL from National Guard and deserted the military during a time of war. I refuse to take a drug test or even answer any questions about drug use. All records of my tenure as Governor of Texas have been spirited away to my father's library, sealed in secrecy and are unavailable for public view. All records of any SEC investigations into my insider trading or bankrupt companies are sealed in secrecy and unavailable for public view. All minutes of meetings for any public corporation I served on the board are sealed in secrecy and unavailable for public view. Any records or minutes from meetings I (or my VP) attended regarding public energy policy are sealed in secrecy and unavailable for public review. For personal references please speak to my daddy or uncle James Baker.
  17. I be dere wif my GF Dec. 15-24. Watchu wanna climb? You up for Prince of Darkness? My GF ain't.
  18. Alpinfox

    Washingtonmobiles!

    Cooper Cooper Spur? (yeah it's in Oregon, whatever ) Saab I-5
  19. You wouldn't have gotten the job if 4/8 board members went to "dumbfuck U" and your identical twin candidate also went there. Nepotism not respect. Actually nepotism means favoritism towards relatives, but you know what I mean.
  20. That's nepotism not respect for a "good school".
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