Gary_Yngve

The junk we saw yesterday looked pretty old. TomTom trundled a Snugtop down from an intermediate ledge to the trail and packed a piece of it out.

But wouldn't you be worried about taking a big whipper onto it? Wouldn'y you rather have a belay anchor of 12 kN pieces rather than 6kN pieces? Maybe the elite alpinists are using them for aid? I'm confused.

I don't see what the big deal is about them. They don't afford that much weight savings (2.5 oz in total), and whereas WC rocks 2-6 are rated to 12 kN, the ultralights are rated to only 6 kN. Personally I prefer my pro to be stronger than 6 kN. Anyone else have any differing opinions?

i suppose we otter ask her if she'd show or if she has otter plans. regardless, does anyone want to do something tomorrow night? a climbing pubclub (an exit or index) would be fun too.

Anyone wanna pounce? The usual mountain feature was replaced with Fontainbleau. I was pleased to see that John Gill was from my alma mater, but disappointed to see that he transferred from there to our archrival.

In Lummox's case, I don't think his whole body is that weakened? It was localized to a wound that wouldn't heal?

Do you know where you got it from? Do you work in a hospital?

"Enclosed please find a new pair of anti-snow plates. Petzl has received feedback from field use of our crampons suggesting that the current, rigid orange anti-snow plates can accumulate more snow than normal in certain transitional snow conditions. As a response, we have developed a new, improved, gray version that we are providing to you at no charge."

Wow, there's quite the gem in Wilkerson: Amost half the black widow bites reported in the medical literature in the first four decades of the 20th century were inflicted on the male genitalia by spiders on the underside of outdoor toilet seats.

I highly doubt it's a Hobo. I'm guessing it was just some average-Joe spider. The WFR text states: The hobo spider is an import from Eurpoe that has spread at least across the NW... The bite of the hobo spider typically produces a blister that ulcerates and takes several months to heal. Approx. 50% ofpatients complain of headaches, muscle weakness, visual disturbances, and/or disorientation. Because the S/S are similar, hobo bites are often blamed on the recluse spider. Bites from hobo spiders are rare. They tend to avoid large cities and congregate in small towns and rural communities. They like it under houses and deep in woodpiles and clumps of debris. Indoors they may lurk any place that is not regularly cleaned. You probably will never find one out in the far, untrammeled places. They don't bite unless trapped against the skin of an unsuspecting human with no way to escape. Also, from a page earlier: Few people are gladdened to learn that almost all spiders, worldwide, carry venom that can be injected through nasty fangs. On the positive side, only a few dozen species on this planet have a bite harmful to humans because the spider injects too little venom and/or too impotent a venom or the spider's fangs cannot penetrate human skin.

I got stung 5 times on my right calf Sat afternoon and another 2 times on my right calf Sat evening (and one more on my right calf Sun afternoon). I also received one sting on my left calf, which was for all practical purposes, unnoticable. I did not exhibit any allergic response. I do not have any history for hymenoptera hypersensitivity. Sunday the circumference of my right calf was roughly 1-1.5 inches larger than my left. On my left calf you could make out the veins, muscle, etc., but not on the right. I'd feel tightness and pain in my calf when my knee would approach either end of its ROM. But the freakiest thing was when I'd weight my right leg (especially more toward the toe than the heel) after standing still (or sitting/lying down) for more than a minute. The pain was intense, in the entire calf, approaching the screaming barfies. But I could relieve the pain by unweighting the leg. Once the leg got moving (usually after hobbling around for a minute), the pain levels dropped to just dull and annoying. I did not notice any circulatory problems in my right foot. Cold and elevation felt really good, but they pain would be just as sucky once I had to weight the leg again. Can anyone explain what was going on inside my leg? For the hike out, I downed 800mg Ibuprofen, which seemed to make me feel better. Didn't see any need to take Benadryl, as the problem didn't seem related to any immune response. Out of curiousity, any other medications that could have helped? OTC? Rx? Some sort of steroid?

I agree, it is hot as hell. Luckly I've made my destinations have alpine lakes located along the way. TomTom, I spent my first 21 years in Miami and Atlanta , but I've completely acclimated the other way now. I used to need to wear a jacket in 60-degree weather and could bike for hours in 95-degree weather.

A yellowjacket is a wasp. I was going for the alliteration and thought that Hymenoptera Hassle/Hell was too geeky. They were stings. One of the mofos was having some trouble withdrawing, and as a result just kept on pumping her venoms into me. I swatted and tried brushing her off multiple times before I finally succeeded. Felt like a sustained novacaine injection at the dentist, but injecting poison, not anesthetic. BRING THE NAPALM!

There's a yellow-jacket nest about 4-5 miles up the Downey Creek Trail were there's a 10-ft-high log blocking the trail and you bypass uphill. Six of my nine stings this weekend were from that nest (5 on the way in, 1 on the way out -- all on my right calf).

It's steep, loose, and scary if you avoid the glacier. (I posted a TR on GP a month ago.)

Hang on -- shouldn't be too much longer. We're negotiating a new contract with the capital letters after they went on strike.

Thanks, I accept your apology. I apologize for what I said about our trip a year ago with your name anonymized. I was blowing off steam and should have just ranted to friends rather than put it in writing online. -Gary

This is an amazing achievement regardless, but I wonder if that's 38000 up, or 19000 up? Backpacker magazine describes the Enchantments loop as having 11000 vert.

Climb: Curtis Gilbert-Warm Lake -> Kl. Divide Date of Climb: 8/8/2005 Trip Report: Approach Notes: no snow on route. multitude of paths at beginning confusing. found cold puddle, but not Cold Lake.

There isn't any need to divulge any more details, aside from keeping the peanut gallery entertained. Seymour, you're right: I'm an elitist perfectionist with a disdain for mediocrity and people who waste my time. Clearly I need to lower my expectations. How's this for a start? "I am smart." NEW expectation: i have a positive self-esteem "I know how to cook." NEW expectation: i can pour boiling water on ramen "I can swing leads at 5.9." NEW expectation: i flailed up a 5.9 once "I want to climb Liberty Ridge this spring." NEW expectation: i just learned how to put crampons on Will this help cure me of my disease?

I know Z well enough to know the frequency of the email-checking. Yes, I have Z's phone number, but why should I call if I know email will be cbecked N times a day? You also missed another key point: I emailed Z saying maybe because X got to me first, and then again, 20 minutes later, saying, X found other plans, and we're on. Both these emails were Wed afternoon. I didn't hear back from Z until Thurs afternoon. I have no idea what you're talking about regarding Friday. I emailed Z after all the mess and asked if there was confusion over the two emails (offering an easy exit), and I didn't get a reply, nor was there a mention of any of it when I saw Z Friday night. Ok, I think I just reverse-engineered your identity (we crossed paths at Index a few months ago on GNS, though our bad experience together was a year earlier elsewhere). I think our personalities absolutely do not match. As for the things that got me pissed off on our trip, I don't think there was any need for me to be explicit about things that should be obvious and common sense. It's certainly possible that some of the things that happened were flukes (like maybe you were having a bad climbing day), but there was so much else compounding it all that overall, I got a very bad impression (picking me up in the morning two hours late because you were up late drinking certainly wasn't a good start -- perhaps I should have been more explicit and said that I'll be mad if you're late without a respectable excuse?).

Yeah, he told me that I should preemptively tell all my partners to fuck off, and that way, no one will flake on me. He told me that the strategy is sound and should be followed without questioning because God is on our side.

I haven't had a problem sleeping. It's just a matter of opening enough windows and taking off enough clothes.

Sometimes I'm wondering if I'm being overly considerate, especially when I get flaked out on. This weekend's turning out fine. I'm joining X and Y on Sunday and going cragging with V later this afternoon. Then heading to U's place for later evening plans. Will be interesting to see if Z shows up at U's too and is at all apologetic. Anyway, my aggravation from yesterday is gone. I got a happy bday email from an old friend from undergrad, and the embarrassing part is I forgot about her birthday, which was two days earlier!

This is nothing. I was in LA for the past week.