Gary_Yngve

Nice job!

Szy -- were you and your partner polite to him? Did you explain to him your concerns about the hawks? Did you ask him nicely if he had consulted with the parks dept? Or did you just cuss him out because you wanted to climb Godzilla and he was there first?

There's a stretch I do where I sit in an L, bend my right knee so that my right foot is on the ground outside my left knee, and then lever my right knee leftward with my left elbow. Hope that makes sense.

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/367408/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1

Two Lithium-Ion batteries and no flash and no LCD should last you those 17 days. It won't be too cold. Following the rules I said, you should be able to get 300-400 shots per battery.

In Squamish, I do the sit-in-the-tree start.

Dunno, bad luck? A fluke? I've called ahead, as TLG suggested, and bought stuff at 7:00 without a problem. Yes, they do have fewer hours than REI, but they need to do what they can to keep costs down -- it's much easier for REI to afford the extra hours. And Jim treats his employees way better than REI does.

I always thought that figuring out how to climb something was as much part of the rating as actually climbing it.

What silliness! The 10c I'm getting from Bourdon 2004. McLane 2001 lists that pitch as 10b. I'm sure folks who have gym-climbed will find that face pitch easier than the previous 10a/b(depending on who you ask) Angel Crack pitch.

I assume that the expenses for the medical (not military) chopper are billed to the subject's health insurance?

The softest pitch I've seen at Squamish is the 3rd pitch of Angel's Crest (the face-climbing crux). It's 5.10c in the latest guidebook. It's a one-move wonder with a bolt above. In a guidebook a few years older, the pitch was rated 5.10a.

Ok, I think I've dug myself enough of a hole. I'm shutting up for the rest of this thread.

You just love twisting my words. There's a difference between being consciously busy and being unconsciously focused. By the time our minds zoomed out from redpoint mode to how come that spinning water bottle is falling through the trees, it was too late to say anything.

Saw the nest yesterday. It's in a patch of grass behind and left of the horn. Two eggs are broken, the third intact and likely dead.

Expect to wait in line on the classics unless you climb in the rain or in the early morning or late evening. Be weary of break-ins to cars. Definitely don't park on the backroad to Angel's Crest, Ultimate Everything, etc. Even the Apron parking lot is vulnerable.

With all due respect, I'm fully aware of what it could have done to someone. For you to get a meaningful warning, we had less than two seconds to yell rock. Sorry again for the lack of the warning -- the circumstances were unusual, and we were too focused with the immediate concerns of belaying and climbing.

Wow. How nice of him to LET YOU climb Godzilla. Mystery gardener sounds like an assclown to me. ??? He was up above gardening. He could have said, sorry I'm busy, come back some other time. But he stopped what he was doing and waited for us to go by. I thought that was pretty generous of him.

Sorry, it was clipped in, but my partner accidently stepped on it, busting the handle, while climbing back down to the belay ledge. By the time each of us could divert enough attention away from downclimbing/belaying, we looked down and saw the bottle spinning through the trees -- we were too entranced watching it to think to yell "rock." Yelling "rock" should be something that's an innate reaction, like catching a fall, but it wasn't, for some reason, yesterday.

Yesterday was a gorgeous cool summer day, perfect for climbing hard at Index. We showed up at the base of Godzilla, apparently just after Syz had his encounter with the vertical gardner. He was a little aggro to us at first, given that he was steamed about how you treated him, but with a little courtesy, we were both cracking jokes in a few minutes. He let us climb Godzilla (our goal was Sloe Children) before he did some more work. The ledges on Godzilla were exceedingly dirty when we were there, but he was planning on brushing them off once he was done with his work. So here's the deal: He can't do it on a weekend. I'm sorry that his timing was bad for you, but that sort of work needs to get done sometime. Every ledge at Index used to be overgrown dirt and moss. He's working on what is to be a cool mid-10 linkup from Godzilla to the bottom of the last pitch of Narrow Arrow.

You just don't know how to use Google. Do a search for sloop seattle http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=sloop+seattle and the first thing at the top of the page is: 2830 NW Market St, Seattle, 98107 - (206) 782-3330

Cheers to the AAI guides for stepping up and assisting after the accident!

Thanks for the update, Tom. Still lots of unanswered questions, and most of us (myself included) don't have names yet. Oh well, I think I'll just block this out and work all day and ping the news again in the evening.

I had a grocery bag with some potatoes dangling from my handlebars today. The bag got sucked through the fork, and a few potatoes got impaled by the spokes, locking the front wheel. Luckily I was going slow, which averted a wreck.

Very cool. I wonder how many parties have done the route since Forrest and Dan put it up.

There's a fair amount of give, but it's still a pretty obtuse angle. The force on each anchor is probably double the mass of the bear.