Gary_Yngve

Sheesh, most of you aren't getting the humor of the original post. 1) Olyclimber recognized that indeed, this is not my style. 2) I have mad respect for said climber being capable of 5.12 sport. That only made it funnier that he couldn't jam 5.9 crack.

I think CH, FM, and DA might have been on it within the past two years.

What Eric might be saying is that the cracks at Vantage and Tieton (and maybe Lower Gorge?) offer more options on the adjacent face, whereas at Index, those face options generally aren't there.

The fundamental problem I see is that more power means more mass and volume, things climbers try to minimize. And a generator would have to have a copper or iron core? That's heavier than the lighter aluminum and titanium we use for most of our gear. The other problem would be anchoring and stabilizing the turbine with available gear in the snow. Wind hitting a large blade can generate a lot of force. The funny thing is I did some back-of-the-envelope math for how much power would be necessary to boil water in a reasonable amount of time, and the problem is my numbers were way too theoretical because I didn't know the efficiencies / losses. I came up with only 1W needed (1 Liter of water + 100 degrees, divided by 7 minutes), but most percolators operate in excess of 1000W.

I'm glad it's a funny story. Because if we had gotten hurt, it wouldn't have been. Now is anone else here man enough to admit to a funny story?

your sissy sporto ass doesn't know how to climb crack! you were liebacking, faceclimbing, etc., your way up Karate Crack, occasionally trying to jam and discovering you don't know how to do it. And no, it doesn't tear your hands up if you're tough and have good technique -- but then again, you're a sporto slipper-wearing sissy! btw - you sound like you're giving birth when you're lunging for the next hold.

Dru / RuMR, fuck off. When's the last time I've whined about my advisor or anything else on CC.com?

We got off-route on the traverse pitch of Super Slab and climbed up Amphetamine Grip instead, which took much longer (5.7 R). We were a little too casual with how much daylight remained and left our headlamps in our packs and accidently forgot our second rap rope at the bottom. We heard there was a walkoff and thought it to be down, as opposed to up. We rapped down a loose chossy gully with no options for intermediate anchors, and the rope triggered rockfall. And G-spotter, it was both.

I stayed home last weekend to catch up on work. The weird thing about the three cragging accidents this past weekend is all were a stone's throw from the road. No one got hurt in the alpine (in the WA Cascades), where we think of things being much more dangerous. I think it's all just random luck, though my mom might say, "bad things happen in threes." This is also the time of the year when hikers start venturing out again, and it was the first sunny weekend in weeks. But Monday morning rolled around and no news stories of hikers overdue or injured on Si, Pilchuk, etc.

Mark Twight would say yes: in the time they were spraying, they could have been training!

Just to make sure everyone is aware, there was an accident on Saturday and an accident on Sunday, both on Icicle Buttress.

It means you're a REAL PROGRAMMER.

We had some fun last night with wild mushrooms from Uwajimaya: appetizer: royal trumpet mushrooms coated with melted butter and Cajun spices, blackened. served with Blue Moon wheat beer. first course: cream of yellow squash with morels and earthy spices (cumin, mustard, turmeric). served with a dry Spanish white. second course (no mushrooms): potato-leek soup with chives and chevre. purple potatoes gave the soup a lavender color. served with same Spanish wine. third course: broccoli, tofu, and wood-ear mushroom stirfry with garlic, ginger, and basil. basmati rice and steamed baby bok choy on the side. served with a Columbia Valley reisling. dessert: fresh pineapple dusted with cinnamon.

I'm obviously not a real programmer. I gave up C++ and Fortran for Java and XML. I do have my share of "real programmer" stories though.

Spinach or broccoli. Roasted red pepper for flavor and color. Garnish with feta cheese.

Wow, I just realized I have enough pictures of my ass in the mountains to make a full calendar of it! There's green tights, gray tights, yellow shorts, no shorts, Alpine Lakes, North Cascades, Index, buildering... Don't blame me, blame my photographers! Anyway, back to work... I got online only to browse the Java API, not to spray...

I have many different outfits. There's classic yellow shorts: And poofy red jacket:

Oh ok, that explains why the tomatoes stuffed with wild-mushroom duxelle weren't doing the trick.

The solution is to cook for both of them.

Get well fast, Gene!

My friend was on BoC when the accident happened below him. He doesn't know much. He thinks the accident happened from someone on the hafway anchors on Roger's Corner, perhaps wanting to set up a TR for the 10d route to the right. According to him, response was quick (both on-scene responders and ambulance), and he doesn't think the subject was too badly hurt. (By the time they were able to respond to the scene, it already looked like there were too many responders for any more to have positive contribution.)

A friend of mine was supposed to be doing RC / BoC on Saturday at Index. I left him a message with him just now... will let yall know when I hear back. The rap from the BoC tree to the ledges ends about 5 feet short with a single 60m rope.

That cello CD is a darn good selection. I shoud check out more of the stuff by the 12 cellists of the Bwelin Philharmonic. A friend of mine has a CD of them playing Beatles tunes. It's a cute curiosity, though each song has a 1-minute intro that isn't readily identifiable. And they ommitted the way cool la la la la-da-ti-da from the end of Hey Jude.

Don's spot on with his answers. The other thing about classical is I can get really picky about orchestra/performers/conductor. (e.g. Rostropovich plays Britten, Karajan's recordings of the Mahlers, etc.) And what if only 3 of 4 movements are available online? Or all four movements, but from different recordings? That's practically useless to me. The other nice thing is that the Naxos recordings are generally good and at a budget price (they've gone up lately though, at least on Amazon -- I remember the days of $6 each). www.classicfm.com is a great Internet classic radio station from the UK.

Right on. The Masiky CD sounds cool. Was he playing with his wife (Argerich)? Their recording of Franck is amazing. Stay away from the Casals Bach Suites recording. Casals did the world a favor by breaking out of the mechanical Baroque style, but his recording, done when he was going senile, is subpar. My favorite Bach Suites recording is the older Yo-Yo Ma recording from the early '90s. Best Cello Album. Ha! I wonder what's on it. Saint-Saens's Le Cygne for sure. Bruch's Kol Nidrei? Faure's Requiem? Probably not flashy enough. Some transcribed showpieces (Flight of Bumblebee, Paganini shit, the overplayed Air on a G String)?