Gary_Yngve

I really have no idea what the fuck I'm talking about, but I think I'd be more concerned about a snakebite on the finger than on the forearm. I'd be worried about circumferential swelling and venom concentration potentially resulting in loss of limb.

WTF? State Patrol or local? I've always played the game of they don't pull you over until you're going 10mph over. I would think you could get that 5mph-over ticket thrown out no problemo.

Weird, I've heard very different things about rattlesnake bites. What I've heard is: -It's not a good idea to constrict or reduce circulation around the area of the bite, as there is some benefit to the venom circulating around -- the hemolytic effect will be broader and less concentrated. -Most of the time antivenin is withheld because it won't act in time, and the bite isn't life-threatening. It's super-expensive, I've heard. -Snakebite kits are pieces of shit. Anyone really know the story?

Kurt, so nice of you to remind me. I actually was on GNS during twilight about two weeks ago with a lovely lady and an assortment of freshly baked bread, strawberries, mango, etc. We climbed Pisces via Scimtar, Aries w/ Buttlips Bypass, and Breakfast of Champions.

??? It's 9 to the lower anchors, 10a to just below the roof, 11b for pulling the roof.

Dude, that what happens when you read the Aeneid in Latin.

They can be useful for anchoring in prior to rappeling or for a temporary anchor when swapping climbers (e.g. someone ropegunning up everything). But a sling with a locker will certainly suffice.

In Latin, it's pronounced Wah ghee nah, and it means sheath. Naturally then, gladius was slang for penis in the Roman times.

Dru, your yak comments make it loud and clear that you're not getting any. I'm sorry for you.

We're having a BBQ at the UW Rock today, starting 5 PM. Non-UWCC people are welcome to join in, as well as partake in food if it looks like there is plenty for club members (I bought a lot of food).

The real questions: Could you have sex on top of Everest, and what would it be like? Without supplemental oxygen?

Actually, they are warm, unless you're a necrophiliac.

Stoney Richards was manning the desk this morning. We were hoping to summit via Lib Ridge on Monday and were prepared for the cold temps and possible retreat from Thumb Rock should avy danger above look bad. We were encouraged by the weather forecasts over the past few days, which didn't show that much recent precip (even estimating new snow by multiplying Paradise telemetry by 4 didn't look too bad), but when he told us that Camp Schurman received something like 18" of fresh overnight, we bailed on the Lib Ridge plans. Since we were lacking skiis, we drove home.

I hiked out that way, and it was fabulous. (We came in over Cannon).

As long as there are schoolgirls, I'll happily be a schoolboy.

Joseph, thanks for doing these tests. I'm sure the results are raising some eyebrows. I'm sure many of us would be interested in seeing the results of a larger test, and as Bill offered, I'd happily contribute some slings too (though mine aren't nearly as old as Bill's ).

You may be right, Matt. In that case, the Mounties need to figure out how to streamline their program so that it is financially solvent with a smaller membersip.

Minx and RuMR made some good points: The club system is from an older time, and things are different now (it made a lot more sense before the Internet and today's fast-paced society). One could argue that fifty years ago, learning through the Mounties was probably the best way to go. There are many more options now. The Mounties will go extinct if change doesn't happen. They've had a steady reduction in numbers over the years, and their average age is growing. Some Mounties are trying to change the system. But there are committee members and board directors and bureaucracy. And many of those people are old and/or old-fashioned. While conservatism is good for keeping the club safe from lawsuits and other stupid shit, it doesn't allow the club to freely change with the times.

I agree, it's not hard to climb 5.4 in boots. But it's certainly easier to climb slab in tennies or rockshoes. That's the Mounties mentality for you. Moreso the older generation. The younger generation is more likely to climb in gyms and use rockshoes. As I said, things are changing, but slowly. Hopefully there will be no more Mounties approaching Eldorado or Olympus in plastic boots.

Were they wearing rockshoes or boots?

When I climbed the East Buttress Direct of SEWS as a Mounties Intermediate climb (with only small buttpacks), we downclimbed the S Arete past a Mountie party going up. We did not get harrassesd.

John, what routes? The Basic Mounties only climb S Arete SEWS, WR Cutthroat, and the easy route on Kang Temple. All the other climbs are Intermediate. I didn't think WaPass was in NCNP?

John, I'm being serious here. If you ever catch a Mounties party larger than 6 in NCNP (or two Mounties parties camped together), please report it to the Mounties at once. In the past there had been errors in the database (or no database) that allowed for situations for different branches to bump into each other on a climb, but I think those have been fixed. If leaders are not checking the schedule for conflicts, then they will be censured. By reporting any violations you see to the Mounties, you will help ensure that you will never see more than 6 Mounties at once in NCNP. The Mounties intend to follow the rules just like everyone else.

Minx, we're in the wrong forum for that.

Yeah, well I'm testing my program and waiting two minutes for the data to load for each test. So I have time to flip too, but not enough time to be productive.