Gary_Yngve

Regarding the move that Chuck has trouble with, I think I'm off to the right, side-pulling in the crack with my left hand. Regarding the top moves, that often gives me trouble due to mental issues. I think I protect anything larger than a ledge fall with a yellow or green alien down low. Then place a nut (maybe an offset) about 7 feet above the ledge. Higher up I can establish a stem with a fingerlock on the right and a hold on the left, where another nut can be finagled. I'd like to get out to Index again Mon or Tues night and do TF. I'll post any more beta I gather, as I'm recalling my memory from nearly a year ago.

I have DMM 1.75-4 and use Aliens and TCUs for smaller sizes. My handsize pieces are doubled up with pre-C4 Camalots (1,2,3).

Ok, that makes sense. I didn't realize that you can't do TRs in Rock Climbing Forum but you can in Ice Climbing Forum (seems inconsistent to me).

shouldn't this thread be in Rock Climbing and not NoCa? don't mind me -- just feeling pedantic today

Instead of BD vs WC, BD vs DMM. DMMs are lighter and can be clipped short. DMM doesn't make larger than #4, so go with WC for #5 and #6.

That makes sense to me. Eating is both utilitarian and luxurious. We cannot afford (both monetarily and temporally) to eat luxuriously all the time.

Some threads discussing the top of HoC p3: http://uw.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=11434#11434 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/s...true#Post321039

If a mod wants to send the digital photo talk into a separate thread, fine with me. Layton asked what camera, I suggested it was not the camera, and things went from there. We've been specifically talking about sharpening lately, e.g. the last few pictures here: http://uw.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=15942&highlight=#15942 It's subtle, but you can see telltale halo artifacts.

These three shots give you a rough idea of what sharpening can do for you. The original pictures were 4 MP, sent down to .5 MP. Bicubic resampling, no sharpening Bicubic resample, unsharpen rad=1 thresh=2 amt=200% Bicubic resample, unsharpen done twice, rad=1 thresh=2 amt=200% Choosing the right amount of sharpening for your final postprocessing step is essential but painstaking to get the best sharpness but no halo. My guess is his software is choosing to do some pretty aggressive sharpening.

After reviewing the pictures closer, the artifacts I am seeing are the dreaded purple fringing (a product of demosaicking and possibly chromatic aberration or blooming?) closeup: The pictures should be pretty sharp in general (bright daylight, fast shutter, large depth-of-field). But they do appear especially sharp. The answer I believe is the process of sending the 3.4 MP picture down to a .5 MP picture. Whatever the software is doing, its means of downsampling is involving some sharpening, or at least little to no smoothing (as what should be done to avoid high-frequency jaggies). Look at the closeup of the rope here: You'd expect more antialiasing of the weave. The other thing going on is that the jpeg compression is super-high -- 250 KB for a .5 MP file is pretty large. ChucK, I'm not sore at all. I just see a lot of details in pictures that other folks miss. Now that you mention it, -there's blurring along the halfway seam in the first stitched image. -the second image has blown-out snow. -the third image has a black spot in the lower-right corner. But none of these issues are directed toward the original poster -- these are technical limitations of the camera and the software. Anyway, the point is that cameras are not magic, and a lot of "magic" can happen afterward, but sharpening, whether implicit or explicit, is not perfect.

Sometimes the terrain doesn't allow for double-rope rappels (stuck ropes, traversy/scrambly parts, etc.). Rapping the South Buttress of Cutthroat is a good example.

Thanks, Captain Obvious. I don't remember any other mosquito encounters in the past few years I've been to Index in May/June. The mosquitos at Vantage really surprised me. It's been really wet lately.

Actually that's not the camera. That's sharpening afterward. Look closely at the border between rock and snow in the last image. You will see a tell-tale border/halo that should not be there. That's what happens from oversharpening.

Some other routes 5.9 and below: GNS (twin cracks) Pisces Aries G-M Roger's Corner Toxic Shock 1st anchors on Saggitarius p1 Davis-Holland Battered Sandwich

just a friendly warning if you don't want yourself covered with bites

Nice job as a group of 3! I've always been hesitant to go as 3 in technical terrain because of you travel slower, but it didn't seem to affect you guys much at all.

We C2Ced SGC a few weeks ago and have pictures that show very different conditions. Curiously no one replied to our thread and said nice job or nice pics... maybe it was because I left the blue windpants at home. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/572535/an/0/page/1#572535

"... two Italians walked by just as we found Lincoln. They increased their pace, moved on by, and said 'No speak English.' Although one of our compatriots at high camp had had an hour-long chat with them in English the day before." Perhaps the Italians weren't good enough at English to say, "Don't mind us, for we are inconsiderate selfish pricks. Carry on!"

We somehow managed to dodge the rain and climb Princely Ambitions (p1&p2) and Godzilla last night (only those routes because we were slower as a threesome). We didn't notice any dirt on Godzilla. The bottoms of PA and Godzilla were pretty darn wet (happily aided the 5.8+ mantle on PA and yarded on the bolt ladder start to Godzilla. The rest of the routes were damp but quite climbable. There's some bush at the start of the right-crack start of Godzilla (seeping wet) that needs some trimming.

Egad. Jan-Mar would probably be some arrangement of Gib Ledges, Nisq Ice Cliff, Ingraham Direct? What would the Dec route be? It seems that there might not be enough snow yet to cover the gapers? Would certainly require someone with a lot of time/patience to wait for the perfect windows.

I really have no idea what the fuck I'm talking about, but I think I'd be more concerned about a snakebite on the finger than on the forearm. I'd be worried about circumferential swelling and venom concentration potentially resulting in loss of limb.

WTF? State Patrol or local? I've always played the game of they don't pull you over until you're going 10mph over. I would think you could get that 5mph-over ticket thrown out no problemo.

Weird, I've heard very different things about rattlesnake bites. What I've heard is: -It's not a good idea to constrict or reduce circulation around the area of the bite, as there is some benefit to the venom circulating around -- the hemolytic effect will be broader and less concentrated. -Most of the time antivenin is withheld because it won't act in time, and the bite isn't life-threatening. It's super-expensive, I've heard. -Snakebite kits are pieces of shit. Anyone really know the story?

Kurt, so nice of you to remind me. I actually was on GNS during twilight about two weeks ago with a lovely lady and an assortment of freshly baked bread, strawberries, mango, etc. We climbed Pisces via Scimtar, Aries w/ Buttlips Bypass, and Breakfast of Champions.

??? It's 9 to the lower anchors, 10a to just below the roof, 11b for pulling the roof.