jordop
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Everything posted by jordop
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Bah, with the exception of those two corner systems on CR Tower, I think any new routes on that aspect would be a bit contrived. Sure, there's a tonne of rock there and most of it's good, but there's a hell of a lot of larches and dirt. Christ, we couldn't even find the line of Never Enough That bivy below Clean Brick rox though
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Why then would Kay call his ascent the FA of the full ridge He does: '91 CAJ: "complete north ridge. FA/FWA February 27/28, 1991"
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I talked to some one, can't remember who, and they said the lower part of the ridge was not worthy. They had done it. Maybe as a winter route it is good! That is an awesome photo, thanks. Guy Edwards did it in winter too, apparently. Prob scruffy. Photo is not mine, es de el Sr. Paul Kubik
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All turns in the Squa/Chek divide are intoxicated by two-stroke smoke
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Ooooo, that second shot is scchveeet!
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It should be noted that the FULL N ridge is a much larger climb, one currently on my to-do list, and perhaps quite nice and worthy. Bruce Kay claims the FA and FWA of the full ridge (solo) in '92 I think. The description in Fairley is presumably only the top bit, but considering it is one hour from Chance/Roe Creek FSR, I would suspect that the full ridge had been done before Kay's ascent. I have approached it and it looks quite impressive.
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http://www.topozone.com/map.asp?lat=48.55844475763411&lon=-120.58799658825651&s=25&size=m&symshow=n&u=0&layer=DRG25 Tower is down and right of the "zero" in "8190" If you're at the base of Clean Break, this tower is the last blip on your left. The route we took followed the obvious skyline (east ridge) of this tower. From Burgundy, this tower would look like a small bullet planted on the ridge protruding east from Vasiliki Ridge. Opportunities for excellent 2-3 pitch lines on this south face; ours was the easiest appearing. Awesome splitters. Our intended line had been the north face of this tower which is split by two gaping, off-width dihedral systems, both of which ended below the headwall of the tower (which we ended up skirting to the south on the route we did). I soloed up the ice patch to the base of the right-hand of the corners with our third tools but could see from the base that the corner systems were alternating 6" cracks and moss filled seams. Maybe a good line for someone with more patience, I dunno. Summit is not listed in Fred and does not appear to have an easy way up. Hard to see how your could get off it w/o rappelling and there was no cairn on top. Oh, and Mike's lead? It's a good thing I couldn't watch because of all the moss falling down. I just hear lots of dry-heaving from Mike when he topped out. Seonding this horror show was a constant "take". A pitch for the ages Got to eat at the famous Casa Que Pasa and listen to Necro go on about the beauty of life and his excitment for the upcoming James Taylor conert at the Key Arena
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Cheaper whiskey, actually. Guy figured he could save hundreds a month
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Underscore Layton, maybe you're thinkning of the route between the nw and w lines on Pisano that was put up by Fence Sitter (I think?)?
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I see that the Chief is once again the second largest granite monolith in the world Didn't it used to be in the British Empire or something
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There is now a snowmobile company that keeps a fleet of sleds on the glacier on Jimmyx2. They fly in clients and they go zippin all over the glacier. It's a beautiful thing
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Alright, we're on Elephant Head now and all this fuckin drivin is wearin us down. First it was Amphitheatre, then Buckner, then blah, blah, blah, I'm gettin tired Anybody want anything from Eric Schat's?
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Surprised you guys could fly in at all; thought all the helis would have been pulled for fire duties. Bring on the pics
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should they? no. should they be able to? yes. ay there's the rub. For in that sleep of theft what gear may come, When we have shuffled off this mountaineer's coil
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Re: Squish Crash and Snags A somewhat rudimentary and half assed solution to this and a way to deter asssholes in busy areas is to buy a sturdy, lockable, box of some sort to put stuff in when you're away. A lot of trucks/SUVs have interior metal guy points that can be locked to the box. No, it's not guaranteed, but it is a reason for crook to look elsewhere because of the hassle. Or you could just sit in the ditch all night watching a baited car a la David Persson
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Ever hear of any bouldering epics that make great stories? Neither have I. Nuff said
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No, you're right, not *ALL* of BC is closed, just all the mountains in SW BC I hear there are some excellent routes in the Cariboo. Huge granite multi-pitches
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LOOK OUT! They got a bulletin board too! http://meingh.proboards7.com/index.cgi?board=general
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Up from the snowpatch at the base of the face to the base of the anrgy-looking dihedral just left of the crest of the buttress in the grey rock. Take a bulldog and a broom But I did send the ridge crest on the main peak last month with Steve Harng. 6 pitches, 5.8 Pretty good:
