jordop

Lokks like I killed the link somehow Here's the deal: S. Face Prussik 5.10+ (IV) M.Spagnut, K.Lang, Sept 2003 Summary: A probable new route was completed on Prussik Peak in the Enchantment Lakes area. Most select guidebooks refer to the 1962 Beckey route or the 1969 Stanley-Burgner route as highly rated climbs. In all likelihood, the new route could be a modern classic given its continuous 5.10 difficulty and exposure. Our party followed crack systems near the obvious arete on the left side of Prussik's South face. Description: (5.10+) Start in a large corner to the right of the obvious arete. Climb steep parallel cracks on the corner's right wall. Thin hand jams and lieback moves lead to overhanging section. Move right around corner edge to avoid difficulty. Easier right facing corner above leads to comfortable belay. (5.9) Scamble 4th class past two pine trees to a chimney. Move right into a right-facing corner. Exit left onto belay ledge at the top of the chimney. (5.10) Climb thin right-facing corner. Occasional chickenheads provide convenient stances. Cruxy lieback moves make things interesting. 25m (5.10) Climb overhanging hand cracks on the right wall of a large corner system. Move past flakes to a small stance. 25m (5.10) Ascend a steep left-facing corner. Cruxy near near the belay ledge as angle steepens considerably. (5.10) Lieback a shallow left facing corner 10m. Difficult mantle onto a blank slab followed by an awkward stance. Traverse right around arete to a sloping ledge. Short overhanging corner on large face holds gives way to hand cracks and flakes. Belay on the leftside of a large ledge. (5.10) Re-set belay beneath huge left-facing corner. Climb steep corner to overhanging finish. Offwidth section can be readily liebacked.

http://www28.brinkster.com/mspagnut/prussik_arete.asp I've heard of a lot of "new" routes on this aspect. Is this one really distinct from all the other ones? Anyobdy care to comment? (Yeah and, uh, Grade IV for 7 pitches )

How 'bout the PLI Wall? Course, somone would have to FINISH it before it could be freed. But if it were ever freed . . . .

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Got woken up by mystery nightime trundle at 10:21 last night: 1500' job lasted a good 30 secs. Scared the shit out of me even though I was a km from the face, I thought I was going to die

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I call bullshit and I DON'T want to see the photos proving it. Besides with the cool marine low thing goin on in Squamish today, it wouldn't have been a very impressive FNA

Topos for "the Farm" are at the Escape Route in Whistler. Also info on Showcase Spire, and two other buttresses put up this summer. Looks fun; someday it may be worth the $$$ bling to ride the lift up to go climbing

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If you are refering to Never enough, it starts near the unmistakable chimney south of Clean Break. Looks to have good rock and neat climbing, but it is far from an obvious line, there is some greenery, cracks are mossy, and routefinding looks to be a bit involved. Go for it, in other words

1/2" webbing feels cheap, when in fact it's just light. I'm going back to 3/4", easier on my head

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Can't beat the *TWO* topo views of the Corkscrew Route

Can't get cow jobs in Canada Ascension rox. The nap on G3 is so small that I can't imagine how they grip Great glide, sure Too bad, wanted to buy local

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Seems like a purdy big foobar there, somebody send the guy a telegram or a Pony express. Maybe a smoke signal. Ooh, I got it, a strip-a-gram "Hey there Fred, Seems like you cocked it up in the red." It's the Vons voddy talking

Yeah, that's what i thought too, but Fred's arrow in his photo is pointing at the face with that light colored patch LEFT of that ridge. Seems a lot bigger than the description he gives it

Anybody done this route or has managed to uncork where it actually goes? Beckey's description seems a "left foot , then right foot" sort of affair and I can make nothing of it. Maybe up the light colored slab left of the sun/shade edge?

Gimp cranking in Cal

The final bullet of the tower, south face. Our route went from the middle of the face up and left to the summit.

Yeah, who would want a record of stuff done HERE???

Only in the valley That photo of Cedar Wright in the Supaman costume on the Valley shuttle in Yosem in the new Alpinist is frickin awesome