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jordop

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Everything posted by jordop

  1. Anythin on Banshee and Diablo in the Valhallas would be cool
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  3. jordop

    THE FEAR

    It was a nest, apparently
  4. jordop

    THE FEAR

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  5. Sounds good. Get to it!
  6. If you want actual paper copies of maps for the Coast MOUNTAINS , the best place is the GSC on Robson Street in Vancouver, tel 604-666-0271 (they can probably send you stuff). MEC and other outlets have SOME, but usually only the popular areas. However, everything is online now: http://maps.gov.bc.ca/imf/imf.jsp?site=bc_basemap Click on "layers" to get elevation and play around with scale to get the right one (usually 1:20'000 or 1:30'000 give you the best relief)
  7. Right on! 14 pitches is worth a trip in itself from Vancouver Anybody over there working on, or checked out that east face of Colwell?
  8. Yer right, my bad, didn't really look Moderator please move Not only that, but I spelled it wrong too We are talking about the same Prusik though right? The one in Wyoming
  9. This is almost the exact same line as the topo Spagnut has on his site. See the topo link on the link I posted. So there are what now, THREE "routes" on this arete? [tried posting an image of Spagnut's photo, but it won't link]
  10. jordop

    climbing with necro

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  12. Lokks like I killed the link somehow Here's the deal: S. Face Prussik 5.10+ (IV) M.Spagnut, K.Lang, Sept 2003 Summary: A probable new route was completed on Prussik Peak in the Enchantment Lakes area. Most select guidebooks refer to the 1962 Beckey route or the 1969 Stanley-Burgner route as highly rated climbs. In all likelihood, the new route could be a modern classic given its continuous 5.10 difficulty and exposure. Our party followed crack systems near the obvious arete on the left side of Prussik's South face. Description: (5.10+) Start in a large corner to the right of the obvious arete. Climb steep parallel cracks on the corner's right wall. Thin hand jams and lieback moves lead to overhanging section. Move right around corner edge to avoid difficulty. Easier right facing corner above leads to comfortable belay. (5.9) Scamble 4th class past two pine trees to a chimney. Move right into a right-facing corner. Exit left onto belay ledge at the top of the chimney. (5.10) Climb thin right-facing corner. Occasional chickenheads provide convenient stances. Cruxy lieback moves make things interesting. 25m (5.10) Climb overhanging hand cracks on the right wall of a large corner system. Move past flakes to a small stance. 25m (5.10) Ascend a steep left-facing corner. Cruxy near near the belay ledge as angle steepens considerably. (5.10) Lieback a shallow left facing corner 10m. Difficult mantle onto a blank slab followed by an awkward stance. Traverse right around arete to a sloping ledge. Short overhanging corner on large face holds gives way to hand cracks and flakes. Belay on the leftside of a large ledge. (5.10) Re-set belay beneath huge left-facing corner. Climb steep corner to overhanging finish. Offwidth section can be readily liebacked.
  13. http://www28.brinkster.com/mspagnut/prussik_arete.asp I've heard of a lot of "new" routes on this aspect. Is this one really distinct from all the other ones? Anyobdy care to comment? (Yeah and, uh, Grade IV for 7 pitches )
  14. How 'bout the PLI Wall? Course, somone would have to FINISH it before it could be freed. But if it were ever freed . . . .
  15. Got woken up by mystery nightime trundle at 10:21 last night: 1500' job lasted a good 30 secs. Scared the shit out of me even though I was a km from the face, I thought I was going to die
  16. I call bullshit and I DON'T want to see the photos proving it. Besides with the cool marine low thing goin on in Squamish today, it wouldn't have been a very impressive FNA
  17. Topos for "the Farm" are at the Escape Route in Whistler. Also info on Showcase Spire, and two other buttresses put up this summer. Looks fun; someday it may be worth the $$$ bling to ride the lift up to go climbing
  18. jordop

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  20. If you are refering to Never enough, it starts near the unmistakable chimney south of Clean Break. Looks to have good rock and neat climbing, but it is far from an obvious line, there is some greenery, cracks are mossy, and routefinding looks to be a bit involved. Go for it, in other words
  21. 1/2" webbing feels cheap, when in fact it's just light. I'm going back to 3/4", easier on my head
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