Szyjakowski

Shhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!

check out this thread

In followup to mr peru and my index adventure we decided to move the party to WAPASS.... on Friday after another 10+hrs standing in a muddy hole I picked up BP in EastLake and we hightailed it for Ltown. We arrived around 10pm after a short break in Goldbar... Sat morning, I wished my mother a happy mothers day and then BP and I Steered the sube to the north with the pedal to the metal... we made a quick pitstop at the Cinnamon Twisp for coffee, pastries and lunch goods and then continued pushing my ole car to the max.... Fortunately when we arrived at the hairpin the skies were partly cloudy (somewhat of a highceiling) and the track up to South spire was well established (thanks all )... having climbed with BP a few times I knew of his hiking ability and energy...however, I did not know of how much that increased when the East Butt Slut intends to climb his favorite route....... By the time I arrived at the base of the climb ~1hr after leaving the sube, mr peru was foaming at the mouth ready to send with the rope uncoiled & tied into his harness and the rack around his shoulders....after a brief discussion of our intentions--simu-climb to the first bolt ladder via flake variation, then lead two bolt ladders...then one more stretcher to the top for lunch...(hopefully we beat the impending snowstorm)...mr peru launched upward. By the time I got my shoes on and all my gear in order the rope came tight and I proceeded upwards as well. At this time, BP placed the first piece of pro and exclaimed with an echoing wOOt WooT. He then continued up the flakes, which by the way is a very cool and nice-exposed variation to the regular East Butt Direct route.... When I arrived at the base of the first bolt ladder, I found the ever-smiling bobbyperu giving me the old-fashioned hipbelay since, i had already climbed the eastbutt direct years ago, the plan was for me to lead the first boltladder and bp the second...after a quick glance at the sky, check of the watch and chat with BP...I decided to enjoy the tr session and follow the EBS to the top...1.75 hrs, three snow fluries later we both stood on top of the South Early Winter Spire! after we downclimbed the south arete and then proceeded to glissade on our to the hairpin...so cool! car2car=5hrs more and then back in the sube, destination Bellingham and mothers day with the peru family. Sunday fun with BP's mother, brother and girlfriend....drive up to mt baker, marionberry pie with icecream, pizza and beer....and a few then time to head south... at about 730pm we pulled into the mt Erie Pking area and headed up to Snag Buttress to climb the cool crack with walk the plank tree... very cool sunset and sweet crack climbing...... short session on top and then simu rap to the ground...run back down the trail in the dark...headlamp just in case.....car2car= 1.25hrs... back in seattle around 1130pm 630miles and a couple sweet routes.

something about the dirt and rattly holds near the start of the dihedral is my guess.... eating dirt is fun! way to go kidz. MJ is sweeeet!

i should have listened on the TF beta ...so fukin close but so pumped ......next time fer sure!!!!!!!!!! index granite is the shiZzzzzzzzzzz!

coaching kids how to go really fukn fast is embarrassing to you?

i don't coach for the season pass you moron FECK. skiing is cool but not as cool as splitter cracks....imho... sheesh.

blah, blah...if the holds are too loose for you to evenly distribute your weight without pulling the flake off your definitely climbing in poor style ...get a grip... the real bullshit is the trash...old, young sporto, trado, tribeo.... whoever....give a hoot don't pollute! it sucks the boulders broke..didn't change that much but it still sucks... Actually, the one that pisses me most off is the cave rock at Barneys.. thanks to misdirection by the forest circus the best problem in leavenworth is so fricken fuked its pathetic. nice trail they built from the b.e.a.utiful parking lot. (oh yeah the helipad...)

iam not saying it was you or your buddies luke, nor do i really think some trad gumby would pry a solid flake off the fridge...i was just pissed and hate to see beer cans in the woods. like i said spread the word.

I sure hope you had fun houssitting your dog this weekend. The skiing was good and so was the climbing at Washington Pass. great time...one day of icicle bouldering and a 30mile bike ride and then a mostly sunny day of ticks and dirt on bridge creek wall...climbing was real sweeet...soon it will be too hot in Ltown valleys to enjoy the great southfacing granitic cracks of icicle ridge. I am sure the corn and slush skiing was truly amazing.....

skiing is so over.... until winter...

this is the shiz to avoid in on eastside. curse the people it doesn't affect...wish i was as lucky. good site

why is it that you people must pull flakes off established problems...and leave your trash in the woods???? examples: the fridge boulder, standard overhang...used to have a killer crimpy flake as the start...now a flat 1" edge...this particular problem was sent in the 80's, maybe even the late 70's...yet just last season the starting hold is suddenly bigger, a solid hold that definitely didn't warrant prying off. boulder near Carnival Crack (the ow near 8mile TR rock that requires a rope)...second foot hold is now a large 2" edge, used to be a balancy foot sequence on a flake...this was very fresh as I brushed the dirt off from the flake scar and also found four schmidt cans and a roll of almost used up tape at the base... pipsqueak basecamp built last year...thankfully promptly removed by rat. WTF morons ...please refrain from trashing the woods more than you already do with your pad crushing bullsheit we don't need the problems and attention that other threatened areas deal with because of unconscious behavior. please pass the word to your comrades. thanks.

I'll buy em...send me a PM on when and how to meet up with you.

abandoned(?) chipping projects from the first few years of development...

Thats just what he told you....

that man is a legend. red m&ms is good stemin fun too

R&D

why doesn't that surprise me...i bet it was one of his shortcuts.

i heard someone (more-or-less) say the other day "I'd recommend any other multipitch climb out there besides this one but the views are worthy...."

wasn't it all in a day too?

you paid an extra $30...oh, wait you said "us" ...

I am glad they don't like to hike very far.