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cappellini

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Everything posted by cappellini

  1. anyone wanna buy my old quark ice tools? $250 seems reasonable. there sharp and ready to climb, i have a spare set of old picks and they have some bd clip leashes
  2. try carnival crack, you actually have to jam all but the crux of that one. icicle creek, leavenworth.
  3. acid baby is not on jaberwocky tower. how could layton claim a first ascent if he was guided?
  4. lets not insult warren hardings legacy: the ow is 5.9 they simply require proper technique. and the tower is the rhomboid. i agree, fabulous route. on par with dead baby goat, black pyramid, north face.
  5. if the sun comes out for one day there will be climbing
  6. blah blah blah. risk??? why did that alpine monkeyboy climb a route directly above the road in the icicle --- and brag about it? could have kill someone simply driving home. the obscesent spray from that user is pure vanity. kill yourself if you want but keep it to yourself, thats freedom.
  7. cant wait till someone knocks shit down on a deiseling truck. id hate to answer to someone like d.r. 5.stupid
  8. ive climbed the east face. the dirt wasnt that bad, the climbing is great. we didnt look at a guide book, but i remember some tuff fingers to start last pitch, assumably same climb.
  9. think ill buy it and close it to all but my dearest friends. oh wait i dont have any.
  10. i have been to some spurt crags closer to the columbia near pateros that are on relatively crappy rock like that of banks lake. there are a few routes installed there but it is primarily a novelty area and not really worth the gas if your interested in climbing exclusively. if you like pleasant sagebrush valleys, seclusion, and trespassing this is your spot. i also know that there is some supreme rock in a canyon (old jeep road) between alta lake and antoine creek. Last i knew there were no pre-placed expansion bolts for your convenience on these crags.
  11. who wants to lick my peepee? all procedes will be donated to the charity of my choice. start bidding.
  12. give me a break, even i have walked up that face...certainly not first. layton needs a guide around here, and he already used his token
  13. good ridance bedwetter. maybe more will follow. i can feel the northwest drying up already.
  14. yo serenity.....care to do some pull ups tough guy? pick a number....ill even let your kid ride on my shoulders
  15. keep the rope over your thigh on the outside leg...this is a good practice for all climbing also use one big cam up high and move it up as you go...helps keep rope out of the way...feels like a top rope as well
  16. I'm sure no one would have realized how fat such a well hidden line was if you hadn't spread the word. hmm...coincidence i guess....after all its there every year with little or no traffic...and no tr's
  17. that's because i "guided" a party up it and reccomended it to another earlier this season. both of whom provided tr's on this and the other local spray site. without the spoon fed baby food the sheep would go elsewhere. lesson: stop posting your lame tr's and they'll all go back to lillooet. nothing worse than pick scars and kick holes.
  18. rat gave up his pterodactyls only a couple years ago. as for snow creek, a straight shafted tool would be much more apprpriate for such low angle climbing
  19. in 1978 jeff lowe published a book titled the ice experience. in this book he mentions snow creek wall as a claassic example of winter alpine climbing for this area. this is what motivated rolf and i to go up and climb several years ago. keep in mind the temperature record reveals much better conditions for winter climbing here in the 70's and 80's. this year represents a winter closer to that ideal but not quite that good, and the slab actually sustained thick ice this year. with that in mind it seems obvious that the winter ascents done on snow creek wall this century are no different than those done by the masters of technique(not technology)last century. after all its primarily grade 3 with a couple short grade 4 variations: well within the realm of the masters of technique (not technology).
  20. clueless... this season the water is not as low as it has been in recent years....you would most likely drown if you tried to wade their is a fair amount of ice along the margins of the river at falls creek...im no lewis or clark so not sure how this effects launching or landing a vessel jolanda is also quite icy but not enough to walk across...its only about a mile to falls ck 4-5 mile snowshoe from hatchery creek, suck but safe...
  21. Trip: leavenworth - pencil Date: 1/19/2007 Trip Report: beware..we were thwarted by the pencils gunshots, groans, and coos yesterday...after being smacked just once above the waist, p1 threatend to fall down...we waited a while to watch it fall downto no avail....it still stands unsent
  22. even though dirty lies, he lives in your area code.
  23. even though dirty lies, he lives in your area code.
  24. even though dirty lies, he lives in your area code.
  25. from the spray i have been hit with over the past nine years, drury has been soloed a few times a year...i'll spray for him since i love to spray: i believe rat is speaking from personal experience. i saw him on it once when it was in the most attrocious state ive seen it. ive never been on it.
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