cappellini

oh yea before i go...kithkshultz..are you sure your not flaming????? cuz if so...sum boys hairn dryden prolly thank you gut a perty mouth.....

my favorite topic is back....a day doesn't go by when i go to sunshine wall and climb safely with natural gear, within arms reach of easily avoided, distracting, preplaced expansion bolts...or worse, spend the entire day looking at a decent line i haven't climbed in a while but can't climb because there is a group of ten camped out on some silly contrivance within arms reach of the natural line...they never finish and go away like the typical party leading with natural protection would.....they hang out on that tr all day, all ten at the base of the route not just the belayer... ..those bolted contrivances are masturbative convenience...mear contrivance created by the weak, lazy or momentarily disillusioned....it's like eating a fu#$%ing "Lunchable"....selfish, shameless, and unsightly... there is an almost unending wealth of excellent rock in central washington that is well suited for bolted climbing...there are currently hundreds of routes like these at vantage, most of them quite good...but there is not a logical argument out there that can claim a line of preplaced expansion bolts is justifiable, when within arms reach of natural gear placements..you people must be ignorant, arrogant, or just simply inbred...i aplaud the brave soles who chose the boston tea party approach to saying enough is enough....they are standing up for the rock we invite ourselves to climb on...show some respect, and for ch@##$st sake...live a little and use your rack once in a while.......if you don't have one you can borrow mine as long as you let me borrow your stick clip when i'm sport climbing...

yo e,face climbing is insecure...start pretending you look real sexy when you face climb, it may help more than the prison ownership thing....do you make carabiners too???? i'm too sexy for my draws, too sexy for my stick clip, too sexy for my tights..............

it's another beutiful day...forecast looks good all week....if your not a soft ass there will be plenty of dry warm crags...if not there are always boulders..bring a pad and a spotter and go to the hobo boulders, you may get busted up without..they have been accessible for months...above the forest sign at the base of the tumwater...there is an anchor on top of the big canoe shaped prow near the vine maple up high...good tr's their

[ quote: My old American made Moonstone parka is almost worn out. What should I replace it with? patch your old jacket and buy nothing....goretex doesn't really work that great in the northwest anyway....... if i didn't know better i'd think this self righteous uppermiddleclass thread was being posted exclusively in boulder...buy local climb global...

hey jerome...you got it wrong...smith is a good place to stop when you are on your way to a real climbing destination....you will never wait in line for a crack at smith...

they're criminals...convicted criminals....they should earn their room and board....making biners? whatever...it beats the chain gang....i think they should be forced to pull all those stupid studs out of the rock at the sunshine wall, before some other criminal puts hangers back on em...............than they should knock all the loose rocks off the rest of the entablature so we can put more bolts on that..... wine wine wine... there is so much suffering in the world...think i'll go fill my tank and get a hamburger before i buy a bunch of climbing gear made over seas where they have less stringent environmental laws....i hear black diamond has great gear made in the developing world for pennies and sold over here for top dollar..........

there's a great fist crack near uranus....i thought it was nine plus...tape helps

gyms serve as "rocks" when the rest are wet...they all suck if you think its rock climbing...even mine sucks but it's better than pullups....with enough pot and beer it can even be fun for more than 20 minutes...guess what, the rocks are wet and i'm gonna build a fire and pretend i'm climbing.....

i used to live there,the reality sickens me....it's the @#$%$%^ magazines and the mag sluts and that lame ass codaratan i'm sooo cool i don't even know you attitude they developed an entire industry with in boulder...once the cool world discovered that a few local drunks were getting something they weren't, and cranking vhard on pot and sheaf they just couldn't stay home....so they came they saw and they still couldn't conquer the lord of sprays favorites....now the masses of shit heads who can't tie a knot are their to stay... there are so many insignificant piles of boulders in this state why would anyone go all the way to rmnp to simply roll around on a rocky mountain humping pad and touch boys from behind...get a grip, bouldering is what you do when you can't go real climbing.... think globally climb locally

i've been there many times...it's more like squamish than yosemite....but there are huge granite cliffs and splitter cracks....me and timothy leary climbed about 15 first ascents...the rock is so clean you don't even need to brush on lead....when we have finish all 9,000 or so FA's i will publish a guide book, open a mini mart at the cliffs, and get rich...keep searching and you may find it....

yea, like shotgun shells....the pigeon hunting is awsome at sunshine wall.. ...i think if the hangers come back i'll stick to shooting pigeons until everybody leaves...than we'll climb natural lines all alone...i asked my buddy grahm the game warden....you can shoot pigeons at the coulee all year, not just during bird season...he says it's like pulling knap weed...probably in more ways than one.....give a hoot give weeds the boot...........

those hangers don't work on 1/4 inch bolts....

the only travesty of hanger removal at sunshine wall is that there are still some left...hey hanger theif..finish the job and take the rest of em...don't be afraid

hubba hubba climbs are in but thin....although the nw av report depicts otherwise, avalanche danger is locally extreme on that mountain side right now. ...this is yesterdays report... ..we all lucked out as we stood and watched the funnel vomit train loads of snow as we loaded our packs...... up close and personal.. ...two just finished the main ice flow, hiked up the funnel to the decent and were at the packs, the other two were rapping trees lookers left after finishing left line, one dangling the other just walked under the funnel to the packs....it puked twice while we were right there...the last rapper past under the fuka between vomits....it puked again while we weer on our way down through the woods, this time the shit was grey.. ..another chimney above the typical aproach also puked while we descended.... my honest opinion...if you want to climb east of the crest on north/northeast exposure...look for recent debris...if it hasn't scoured within the past couple days...it will... ..the funnel itself may be done vomitting but the rest of the mountainside is probably not.. go rock climbing

i'm down with erik..either the hangers were stolen simply because the perpetrators needed some hangers..... or they were removed for a deeper reason....like crowding natural lines, placed near natural pro, or so close together you could ao without slings....if the coulee lost half its routes it would still probably have the same number of good ones......

gay

yea...ill be sure and sharpen my stick..don't forget your puffy cloths too...ya sissy..ben and i are gonna climb some shit over here saturday if you want to join us....bring that scraunty sport captain too...........send me an email i've over this lame site

i say go to wenatchee tuesday ... we can all get drunk go to the rink play for a while and drop em!!!!!!

it seems we're in the same valley...want to find some ice later this week?

did he say it really starts to run and break up???? yea thanks chris for abusing what little ice was begining to form...leave it alone till its in or we'll never see anything form

there is no ice at banks lake, i drove up there and looked myself..if you're desperate try moses coulee...there were a few offerings with much fenageling and/or dry tooling...bring a helmet and a drill and look for icepickles

anybody know of ice near kelowna..near enough to base from there for a few days