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cappellini

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Everything posted by cappellini

  1. good ridance bedwetter. maybe more will follow. i can feel the northwest drying up already.
  2. yo serenity.....care to do some pull ups tough guy? pick a number....ill even let your kid ride on my shoulders
  3. keep the rope over your thigh on the outside leg...this is a good practice for all climbing also use one big cam up high and move it up as you go...helps keep rope out of the way...feels like a top rope as well
  4. I'm sure no one would have realized how fat such a well hidden line was if you hadn't spread the word. hmm...coincidence i guess....after all its there every year with little or no traffic...and no tr's
  5. that's because i "guided" a party up it and reccomended it to another earlier this season. both of whom provided tr's on this and the other local spray site. without the spoon fed baby food the sheep would go elsewhere. lesson: stop posting your lame tr's and they'll all go back to lillooet. nothing worse than pick scars and kick holes.
  6. rat gave up his pterodactyls only a couple years ago. as for snow creek, a straight shafted tool would be much more apprpriate for such low angle climbing
  7. in 1978 jeff lowe published a book titled the ice experience. in this book he mentions snow creek wall as a claassic example of winter alpine climbing for this area. this is what motivated rolf and i to go up and climb several years ago. keep in mind the temperature record reveals much better conditions for winter climbing here in the 70's and 80's. this year represents a winter closer to that ideal but not quite that good, and the slab actually sustained thick ice this year. with that in mind it seems obvious that the winter ascents done on snow creek wall this century are no different than those done by the masters of technique(not technology)last century. after all its primarily grade 3 with a couple short grade 4 variations: well within the realm of the masters of technique (not technology).
  8. clueless... this season the water is not as low as it has been in recent years....you would most likely drown if you tried to wade their is a fair amount of ice along the margins of the river at falls creek...im no lewis or clark so not sure how this effects launching or landing a vessel jolanda is also quite icy but not enough to walk across...its only about a mile to falls ck 4-5 mile snowshoe from hatchery creek, suck but safe...
  9. Trip: leavenworth - pencil Date: 1/19/2007 Trip Report: beware..we were thwarted by the pencils gunshots, groans, and coos yesterday...after being smacked just once above the waist, p1 threatend to fall down...we waited a while to watch it fall downto no avail....it still stands unsent
  10. even though dirty lies, he lives in your area code.
  11. even though dirty lies, he lives in your area code.
  12. even though dirty lies, he lives in your area code.
  13. from the spray i have been hit with over the past nine years, drury has been soloed a few times a year...i'll spray for him since i love to spray: i believe rat is speaking from personal experience. i saw him on it once when it was in the most attrocious state ive seen it. ive never been on it.
  14. i am not as young as you may think, an i am still sore on wednesday.... the quickdraw, yes i saw it inadvertantly tumble by while i was belaying...i consider any lapse in style which leads to loss of equipment to be just that: a loss. therefore if you wish to retain it as booty, its obviously yours by my ethos...but, if youd like to give it back, i'll buy you a beer or an organic fruitjuice depending on your lifestyle...my number is in the book, cashmere.
  15. so whats wrong with my gaiters? i was watching you wondering if you understood the gravity of the situation peter and i had gotten ourselves into: "they must me saying wow those guys are really slow, that dude is still standing that spot wetting himself
  16. these guys are dicks..climb what you want, enjoy yourself, and stick with the ski boots if thats all you have...and by the way driving a long way to climb is a stupid waste of time, use your imagination and climb locally...when you become desparate you will find yourself falling into the driving trap, irregardless of how you feel about it now. most importantly, ignore all guidbooks and advice from sources like this place except for finding loctions of potential climbs.
  17. white slabs direct is 5.9+r. i have done it in summer. probably in modern terms, which people have passively grown accustomed to over recent years, 5.10r. plastered whith thin frozen debris it felt about the same as when i climbed it high and dry, in a sportshirt. with the added fear associated with body weight tool placements instead of c4 rubber and a sportshirt. lastly: not as difficult as when rolf guided it last time. that said translate as you see fit.
  18. there are formations between the owl and the blk pyr which resemble eagleheads. they are closer to blk pyr and fit the beckey description well. north face owl has been done
  19. thanks perk...its now clear that you climbed a gully and a rib between gullies not the prow of the central pilar as we did.
  20. before a debate starts...i meant climb ow, stand on flake, place bolt high...freeclimb to summit if all goes well...otherwise stand on bolt, drill another bolt...freeclimb to summit.. i assume monkeys ladder went free, he sayd "5.10 and we summmited"...otherwise its a0, and needs to be freed....
  21. i planned to do the same from atop the flake..that way theyre guarded by the ow...i hope thats where you put em....
  22. i agree..there is no 5.12 on this route, i have free climbed all of it..
  23. hmm...your dots don't show this i dont recall any big jugs when standing on the flake...i remember crimping and a fear of falling quite far...up and down up and down...down i want mommy
  24. they don't make any sport tops in mens, mike....think ill start my own fasion line... oh yea, i have a pair of pants for ya (remember the ones i found near colchuck?)...you were right, theyre more your size, little boys xl...i thought theyd work for me if i rolled them up..but theyre just too small..
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