G-spotter

you can daytrip it from Elfin Lakes. Dalton Dome would only make sense if coming from Brohm Ridge as it is the other side of the mountain from Elfin.

it might have been some guy named specialed

SPAM

http://icanhascheezburger.com/

damn in Squamish bouldering is more like group sex than a solo sport

the double sliding x is basically the equalette with no knots

GOD SPEAKS TO PARIS IN PRISON!! Paris' playhouse to resemble Pee-wee's?

This is grade 10 physics in Canada. Cool - yes. Radical - not really.

... and your video crew.

Take a look in ANAM at the Tahquitz double fatality where a cordelette caused sequential failure of a three point anchor because it did not equalize the three pieces. Sliding X's or an equalette would not have failed, as simulated replications of the accident using the same gear that failed in the same placements and test weights showed It seems this was an error in setting up (equalizing) the anchor, not a problem with cordelette. The reason I do not use the Sliding X is because if one anchor point fails, the resulting extension will likely cause the others to fail...as in this case of a poorly equalized anchor. And, of course, the reason we use multiple anchor points is b/c we do not assume any single point will hold a fall. Am I mistaken? Should I be reconsidering using the sliding x over an equalized and tied cordellette? In what situations? Just read the Supertopo post for details if you are interested, but in essence, even if a cordelette LOOKS equalized, it transmits the majority of the force to the shortest arm, resulting in asymmetric loading of the pieces. Also, it is non-directional - if you move even a little bit, it unloads one arm and maxi-loads another. In contrast, it turns out that when tested in actual failures, even if one arm of the Sliding X unclips, the friction of the X sliding, together with stretch from the nylon, results in no shockload on the anchor.

It was on SuperTaco, it was in Rock and Ice, it was in Climbing, it was in ANAM. You can look it up. That's where I read about it.

Vinyl is not an old enough format for me. I only listen to stone tablets.

FreeBliss.com

It was exactly the situation in which most climbers would have used a cordelette... because they believed it was a tool to equalize a three point anchor. It is directly because of this accident that professionals and guides have reevaluated the cordelette and found it wanting.

You don't see two mountains here do you

Explosive is aid.

Nothing better to do than take your nuts out 8D ?

In "Battlefield: Earth" the bad guys (John Travolta) use a Base 11 system. That is why they are so bad.

unCAGE tEH sOUL

Did you get a buzz?

Take a look in ANAM at the Tahquitz double fatality where a cordelette caused sequential failure of a three point anchor because it did not equalize the three pieces. Sliding X's or an equalette would not have failed, as simulated replications of the accident using the same gear that failed in the same placements and test weights showed

suuuuuuure

Pretty much anyone can look at a mountain and see it's a mountain. Prominence comes in when peak baggers don't like certain summits (often because they are too hard) and need to come up with a rationale for not climbing those summits.

Bowlines fail because they can untie themselves. Fig-8s don't (except if tied as an EDK, when they roll even with really long tails). The only complaints about Fig-8s is that they are too hard to untie when projecting sport routes, or that they make you look like a n00b because you have been tying in with a bowline since the days of PA's and you are too oldskool to change and get safe.