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Everything posted by G-spotter
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I guess drytooling smith tuft is right out?
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ice climbing 2018/2019 OR/WA Ice Conditions
G-spotter replied to ggres335's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
people are sending on Colfax. thanks facebook. -
So let's say a guy wants to use skis to approach climbs but climb in mountain boots not ski boots. Has anyone ever successfully retrofitted the holes for tech bindings into an existing non-ski boot? Are there cobblers that can do this? Like if one could get an old pair of Koflachs or something and then get a new sole put on that takes tech bindings for modern AT skis? Seems like it might be cheaper than spending $1000 for the dead bird ski boots that purport to climb like climbing boots.
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https://www.squamishchief.com/discover-squamish/human-feces-laced-with-thc-sickens-squamish-dogs-1.23512057?fbclid=IwAR0XAte-3VaV2yCCz3bnkxjFSsSzScxGa9DzmvthfThqsfXNog6T93wZ1gQ
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Version 13 now! KMZ, KML, and PDF. New Ice Climbs In SW BC Version 13.pdf West Coast Ice Climbs.kml West Coast Ice Climbs.kmz
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best of cc.com Pictures From the Wayback Machine
G-spotter replied to EWolfe's topic in Climber's Board
Is that a pube on the slide, at lower left? -
[TR] Argonaut Peak - North East Couloir 11/17/2018
G-spotter replied to PorterM's topic in Alpine Lakes
Like Pumpkin Spice spicy? Or Posh Spice spicy? -
snowline's down to around 1000 m now but still Whister's worst opening day in 15 years
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Looks like rain at Coq Pass right now http://images.drivebc.ca/bchighwaycam/pub/html/www/685.html
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Ice density in crevasses on the Coleman Glacier
G-spotter replied to Wildearth's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
well, it goes from brittle to ductile at a depth of ~50m. you need 50m of ice thickness to flow, and so most crevasses are 50m or less deep because that's the brittle fracture depth. i don' t think that's what the OP observed though. -
Ice density in crevasses on the Coleman Glacier
G-spotter replied to Wildearth's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
However, in practice, glacial ice does change in density with increasing pressure https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=13&ved=2ahUKEwi3zrrhpNfeAhULwFQKHQG8BdkQFjAMegQIBxAC&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.igsoc.org%2Fjournal%2F3%2F27%2Figs_journal_vol03_issue027_pg568-573.pdf&usg=AOvVaw1xN96PcWhXuAEe_YNQByYE -
Ice density in crevasses on the Coleman Glacier
G-spotter replied to Wildearth's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
Well, if you want to get technical, the answer isn't really "density" as much as it is "stress and strain". Which is pressure dependent. Higher pressure ice is harder and deforms less. This is why crevasses have a maximum depth. http://www.antarcticglaciers.org/modern-glaciers/glacier-flow-2/glacier-flow-ii-stress-and-strain/ -
Ice density in crevasses on the Coleman Glacier
G-spotter replied to Wildearth's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
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I'm still hoping JosephH will say that's not real climbing and predict that he can't OS some shitty Beacon 5.11
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Unrepeated routes in N Cascades (winter type)
G-spotter replied to glassgowkiss's topic in Climber's Board
In terms of unrepeated routes, iirc, Buckshot and Wild Game on Buck NF have no repeats? And those are big, not like Intravenous which while looking cool is only a couple pitches long? -
Unrepeated routes in N Cascades (winter type)
G-spotter replied to glassgowkiss's topic in Climber's Board
You need to pay more attention dude. N Face Couloir gets lapped. Maybe not weekly though. -
OS of Scarface and White Wedding, 2nd ascent of Assassin so far... but is he gonna visit Beacon? That's the real question.
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Unrepeated routes in N Cascades (winter type)
G-spotter replied to glassgowkiss's topic in Climber's Board
Nothin' says hasbeen chestbeating like posting about how long it's been since you put up a route with no repeats since. Maybe your route just sucked. -
If the snow is soft you're gonna stop no matter what, and if it's hard you might break your skis practicing. So use some garbage skis to practice.
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Need ice tool suggestions for harder routes
G-spotter replied to skimbleshanks's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
Also I don't think x-all mountains come with an adze but honestly you rarely need an adze anyway. -
Need ice tool suggestions for harder routes
G-spotter replied to skimbleshanks's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
Quark or X-All Mountain. Quarks self-arrest and plunge better. X-all mountains are lighter. -
https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/forum/17-the-gear-critic/
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Horsecock. Lots of horsecock.
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Great Bear Snowshed on the Coquihalla
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Once weed was legalized the potential for Muir on Saturday flamewars dropped way, way down. Also, some of the older trolls are now senile or mummified, which restricts their ability to post.