G-spotter

that's what v7 is all about

Trip: Hope Mountain - Poker In the Rear 70m WI2 Date: 11/24/2007 Trip Report: JMace and I didn't feel like hiking in to Sumallo Cirque after finding out the gate was locked so we drove all over looking for ice. Private Reserve is coming in. Nothing else in near Hedley, very dry. Sumallo Bluffs is forming up. Mess, B/K, Landmark all forming up but gray and thin looking. Buszowski/Kippan on R with unclimbed stff above, and Landmark Gully on the left. Anthrax Ripple, which almost never forms, is forming up. it looks real good! AR takes the super narrow vein of ice. I have never seen this route formed before. After driving all over & seeing a disappointing amount of ice & not climbing any of it we remembered some climbs Gary S. and jordop had put up up Hope Mountain. We were now on Plan D and it was 2PM so it was nice to be able to drive right to the end of the road. The icy section mentioned in WCI at 4km was just passable with some dirt shovelled onto the ice, so we avoided the 5km road walk. It was a 15 minute hike in to the two ice climbs. A nearby potential WI4/5 did not look formed yet. We decided to do "Poker in the Rear", 70m WI3 as per the guidebook. Approaching the route. I was able to lead the whole route in one pitch with a bit of simulclimbing. The ice was about like on the first ascent as per conditions photo in the guidebook, but it felt more like WI2 than WI3 because the stepped nature of the underlying rock gives you so many rests and foot ledges to stand on even when the overall angle steepens. This was a good season opener route and would make a great first lead for anyone. I tried out some new Grivel Helix screws I bought on close-out at MEC. They were pretty nice, not sure the big hanger radius would be so great if you had to chop away a bunch of ice to turn it though. We were able to rap off in one 60m shot from a tree at climber's right of the top of the steeper falls and about 5m from the top of the climb where it kicks back to frozen creek bed. Walk back to the truck by Jesse's headlamp was pretty easy & the icy road was not any worse on the drive out although 4-low was used. This is a pretty good early season area & the ice should stick around for a while longer it seems.

You'd swallow afterwards too I bet.

even with better equipment we couldn't get thru the gate today, so we went ice climbing instead.

Hope Mtn ice climbs are in. See WCI vol 2.

Sleep's 33% assuming 8h/day. Of the remaining 66%, work is NOT 80%. It's 36%. (0.24/0.67). You failed math?

The Roostersaurus

somebody needs to take his meds

I expect they would be covered over with fluffy pow-pow right about now.

... or the Rambles on the Duffy.

ya, i think you're too early. you might go take a look at thermometer gully up near the lions north face.

8 hrs day, 5 days out of 7 day week = max 24% of your life not counting holidays, retirement, school, youth and unemployment. more like 10% with those added in.

remember - turkeys are dinosaurs.

Wanted single F Under 33 Must enjoy the sun Must enjoy the sea Sought by single M Ms. Destiny Send photo to address Is it you and me? Reply to single M My name is Caroline Cell phone number here Call if you have the time 28 and bored Grieving over loss Sorry to be heavy But heavy is the cost Heavy is the cost

http://members.shaw.ca/beyondnootka/articles/victoria_peak.html

When I see Stellarium I think of an Aquarium full of Stella

I can't find Layton's Zero Gully TR. It's like it got eaten by a marmot.

there's a dump of new snow from monday.

Nope, this might be a ski weekend with the nice fluffy powder up high. I can drive 5 hours to not climb ice some other weekend.

Drove as far as Boston Bar for work today. -7 in Lytton overnight. Ice starting to form from Hope north, but not climbable. Upper pitches of Mousetrap; Medusa; Psycho Cirque; Cerberus - all starting to form & visibly white with ice. Lower pitches of Mousetrap and Cerberus still running water. Superheroes area has verglas only. Was up to 1300m el. in Anderson River drainage. Snow 6" deep at that elevation. Even up there, ditches are frozen over but creeks are still running. A week of this would make climbable ice but don't think there will be any for the coming weekend. Heard Clinton hit -10 last night but I'd be careful about running up to Marble and bashing the hell out of the lower tier on toprope. Give it another week... Oregon Jack, NightnGale, or Isodorth/Bemore/Sgt peppers might be the most reasonable chances if you absolutely have to climb ice this weekend? Even in the Cheam Range and around Hope I couldn't see any ice forming up high, just lots of fresh snow from 1500m on up.

It's 10 Y vs 11 N at the moment.

We've got an office turtle now. I can feed him live bugs. It rocks! shelled

Is it odd when a legendary climber's emails change from "HOWZ DA WEDDER" and "DO YUO NEEDA KEY FOR THEG ATE" to "DO YOU HAVE FERNW EBB"S EMAIL ADRESSS?" ?

just two x chromosomes will do, in fact

Meanwhile...