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Everything posted by G-spotter
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100% chance of pagetopping floods
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You guys are sissies. Floods are awesome. I got up at 5 AM to go watch a house float away in the Valley
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Fraser Canyon (lack of) Ice Conditions - Nov 21
G-spotter replied to G-spotter's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
Just to update conditions - Hope and Jarvis Bluffs didn't have climbable ice on Saturday afternoon. Don't know about Sunday cause I was in bed most of the day and when i went outside visibility was 5 feet or less. -
first ascent [TR] Sumallo Bluffs - Unnamed WI3 - 60m 12/1/2007
G-spotter replied to cheamclimber's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
How far west from the Sumallo Grove parking lot, then? -
first ascent [TR] Sumallo Bluffs - Unnamed WI3 - 60m 12/1/2007
G-spotter replied to cheamclimber's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
How far past the ruined cabins? Might be an FA. -
oh? How many were killed by fallout downwind of Chinese, French, Russian, UK, above ground bomb testing? French kept testing bombs aboveground at Mururoa into 1990s. Much of French Polynesia downwind...
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Um... Pakistan has had the bomb for what, 10 years now.
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Damn, girl, that was quick. "...She is the patron saint of chastity, gardeners, girls, engaged couples, rape victims and virgins..." Guess that would be the right saint for me... Shit, I've been skinnydipping in St. Agnes Well a few times, and i had no idea.
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Yes I am not only both but fat as well. However, as I am still alive, I take that to heart as an indication that I have been smart enough to avoid the chop yet this far. Drew, Rock and Ice did tests which surprisingly was able to develop up to 1300 lbs on a belayed Toprope fall. If you have any Canadian math handy, please note that the low rating on the Ushba can be exceeded by that figure. Now, I've been a good sport and provided links to shit which has shown me to be correct. I have only done this to contribute to your knowledge, safety and well being. You can find this info online, it is not a secret. I have children, and like you, they often choose to ignore my wisdom. I'm saying no worries there, I'm use to being relagated to the shitheap, but yet I still want you to have the info, despite the fact that you are but a lowly Canadian. And a bit of an obnoxious one at that. I'm trying to say, in my way: "you're welcome". You are still confused. Let me spell this out in small words, OK? I agree that the Ushba Basic, Petzl Shunt etc. will cut the rope around 5 kN. I agree, for purposes of argument that force on a belay device during a top roped fall can reach 1300lbs. Which is 5.8 kN. It's important to note that this is not a totally static fall. It is because in top-roped climbing the rope is doubled through an anchor. Unless the rope is yarded tight all the time, slack can develop. On stretchier skinny ropes, there can be appreciable rope stretch as well during a toprope fall (I've seen someone fall off from 10m up and deck out while toproping Icy Bc on bell-ringer style double 8.5s tied together). All of which can result in increased force. This scenario is irrelevant for the Petzl, Ushba set up to belay in solo toprope mode. In this case, the single line is fixed down the cliff and weighted at the bottom. The belay point moves up the rope with the climber - result - no slack. The belay point is fixed to the climber's waist resulting in falls being essentially motion of the center of gravity. The only way to generate enough force to cut the rope using such a set up is to extend the belay device away from the body with a sling - creating the same problem as in via ferrata falls. Therefore it is best when using such a device and setup to have the device as close to the body as possible. For this reason and to prevent the connector from crossloading (common problem with HMS biners & self-belay devices) using a 3/8" or larger stock Maillon rapide is preferable to a biner. That said, the Troll Rocker or this new Asap have been designed specifically to have higher breaking strength and are therefore safer devices. But Ushba, MiniTrax etc. work fine & are safe for self-belay, as I have probably hundreds of falls with no rope damage to attest to.
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lazy bastard lurking on top of the damn page
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Reuters reports Yeti footprints found Quick, call Messner!
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you miss kevsbone and you are looking for something new to suckle on
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pink, are you from Enumclaw and branching out from horses or something?
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http://ca.news.yahoo.com/s/capress/cold_winter_forecast
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sounds like minx has a hotmale account
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Are you taking a mattress with you Mikey, or are you going to have to buy one there.... from Sleep Country, USA, why buy a mattress anywhere else? "Ding"
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Goodbye my friend, it's hard to die, when all the birds are singing in the sky, Now that the spring is in the air. Pretty girls are everywhere. When you see them I'll be there. We had joy, we had fun, we had seasons in the sun. But the hills that we climbed were just seasons out of time.
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I keep beer in my spare igloo.
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I thought "high level" was ABO 5.13+ M10X A5 nowadays? Wayne, if Mikey leaves, maybe you can bring along a sheep for the long winter bivis?
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Dude. So will just about any self-belay device. It's for TR. Try generating that much force. I know you are old but I didn't think you were senile.
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Instead of spending $70 or $80 on a solo-lead belay device, spend that much on beer and promise it to whatever sucker will belay you.
