G-spotter

ya whatever. hangover + eggs = no hangovr.

Yep. And Kris was going to muni it but I don't know if he ever did.

EGGS. Lots of eggs. best hangover cure ever. In my experience it is pretty much impossible to get hungover from a) gin b) Jagermeister Vodka, whiskey, red wine on the other hand are almost certain hangover makers.

Trip: Lillooet - 5 Days in Lillooet Date: 1/1/2008 Trip Report: Jesse, Steve and I left Vancouver on Boxing Day and headed up to Lillooet for some end-of-year ice climbing. This is how it went down: DAY 1: We left Vancouver and headed to Pemberton. Not much ice in until north of Whistler. Took a drive up to D'arcy, gaped at some ice, nothing much inspired us. Drove over the Duffy, no one at the Rambles, fair bit of ice but still, nothing inspired us. Drove through Lillooet, up the Bridge River, LOTS of ice but by now we needed something roadside. Just beyond the dam we saw some unclimbed ice up above the road in a spot that it rarely, if ever, has formed fat before. We stopped, grabbed the gear, ran up and had a quick good climb. A couple shots from Steve of Pitch 2 of "The Walrus", 80m WI2+. Back to Lillooet that night and a palatial ghetto room at the Mile 0. Being Boxing Day night, the only place open to eat was the Reynolds. We had a beefy dinner and played some pool. DAY 2: Next morning we got up early and headed up the Duffy to try and do Solarium plus Wet Lady, all of which looked a bit brown but pretty good from the road. However after breakng a deep path through the concrete-like crust and up to the climb we discovered Solarium was not really in: a thin sheet of unprotectable icicles. So we bailed. Back on the road we started talking to some climbers in a car with Alberta plates. It turned out to be Will Knott from Canmore and Tim Emmett from the UK out to climb hard stuff. We pointed them at Loose Lady and drove away. Our back-up plan was Marble Canyon; we got there a bit after noon and ran laps on Deeping Wall to work the steep-ice technique until it got dark. Back in Lillooet we ordered in pizza to the motel room and stuffed ourselves, drank Jaegermeister, watched Bond movies and passed out. DAY 3: Up early again and off to the Bridge River. The objective today was the rarely formed Silk Degrees which was in and fat, except for the very bottom, although it looked like the variant rock start was go. The route from the road. I had brought real waders but Jesse and Steve brought one pair of garbage bags between them, which made getting across the river a bit time-consuming. But we did all get across and stayed mostly dry. Up to the route and it was my lead again. I started off on some thin ice and mixed to gain the rock, got up about 10 feet, ripped both tools, took a somersault and landed on my ass in the snow. My second go was more successful and I even managed to find some OK gear here and there. The crux bulge was a mixture of laybacking and stemming with hands on rock and thin ice for the feet. Above the corner, the traverse over to the ice was exposed but pretty easy. Jesse took the second pitch, which had some short steep steps in between some more mellow terrain. This pitch was climbed at around noon and it was nice and suny and warm, pretty comfortable ice climbing actually. This brought us up to the crux pillar which fell to Steve. He got on it and sent, pretty good pitch, steepest at the bottom and gradually easing off higher up. Above the pillar, one can cut hard to climber's right to walk off down a ramp. We continud up the gully, simulclimbing some WI2 steps, to check out the base of Silkworm. It was in but by the time we were up there it was pretty late so we bailed off into the Salmon Stakes approach scree gully with a couple of tree raps. Back across the river by headlamp and off to the Reynolds again where we met Don and Graham. Day 4: Steve and Jesse headed off back to Vancouver via the Duffey. I hooked up with my friend Doug, a new ice climber, to do some more Lillooet ice. We went out to the Bridge River again. With the benefit of a late start, we got to see lots of other climbers on routes: Will and Tim heading to House of Cards, Don and Graham on Silk Degrees, and a pair of WA climbers on Night n Gale. Doug and I ended up at Cedarvale Falls where we climbed the main falls and played around on some mixed terrain along the edge of the falls. A short day but a pretty good one. We got back to Lillooet in time to drink some beers at the Reynolds with Will and Tim. Then pizza again! DAY 5: Doug and I headed south of town down the Texas Creek road in search of some more moderate ice. Spray Creek Falls was not looking so good (big holes) so we hiked in to Texas Creek. The lower climbs were not really in, but Longhorn was there. We got to Texas Twostep to find the second pitch fat but the first pitch very thin. Still, it's relatively low-angle so I decided to head up. The ice was 5cm thick or less for the first 20m, then gradually thickened to 13cm at the top. Surprisingly I got in a Spectre and two stubbies; I had thought it was going to be a roped solo. The second pitch was pretty fat. On rappel we checked out a neat mixed line: the fatter ice (directly above Doug in the photo to the roof), then a right-facing corner with a 3" crack above it. Not having any rock gear today though, we settled for rappel inspection. Back to the car with a warm front cming in and out down the Canyon with melting snow, finally hitting rain around Hope. More detailed conditions report sent to westcoastice.com so check there to see exactly what was in and what wasnt. Gear Notes: Standard ice rack Spectre or Bulldog Small rock rack from wired nuts to #2 camalot. Approach Notes: Car Hip waders Snowshoes for breakable crust Ski poles for walking in.

I think Geordie knows something about DB's whereabouts.

Mark knows his rocks.

Em Em Vee Aye Aye Aye

Once I met a guy hiking up the Garibaldi Lake trail who was portaging a canoe, with a 12 pack of Pilsner in each hand. He was a fisherman though, not a climber.

Nope, the FA of the west side of Cheam was in the 80s.

so rap with the dull side

You want to be an intern? Got knee pads?

Worn down Reverso.

naw, now he gets to write a new edition

or you could just drive to lillooet which is super fat

FREE

westcoastice.com

the Mile 0 has WiFi now so you can spray from your motel room!

Was your girlfriend eating beans?

your mom in a sheep costume. double epic.

naw, the teeth hook on rock for mixed dummy

Ham is the proper dinner. The largest pig was led into the hall, and placing their hands on it, all revelers made a wish. Then the pig was slaughtered, the wishes went straight to the gods, and everybody had ham feast.

may Santa bring tauntauns to everyone.

Dude! Putting the seat down after you flush does NOT qualify as even a non-present.

OMG I CAN HAS AUTOGRAFF?

Paging Dr. Herbert West. Dr. West to surgery please.