G-spotter

Didn't Basil Darling climb the Lions in winter way back like 100 years ago?

The S was for Sandbag.

You can infer it from the tech. grade. Like E4 5b will be loose, scary and poor pro but E4 6b will be one hard move with bomber gear at your waist. For instance I've apparently climbed E3 5b (according to the 3rd ascentionist) but failed on E2 5c which suggests I am OK with scary runouts but weak.

Andy Burham once told me (right after leading it) that p1 of Japanese gardens was E4 6a. hardly bad pro on that rig... My understanding of the mirky english system is that the E rating can reflect EITHER the sustainedness or the quality of the gear...the second number is the actual technical level of the hardest move...how to understand which thing the E represents is a mystery to me... The idea is that it requires the same difficulty overall to lead a well protected climb at a harder grade as it does to lead an easier but scary climb so they get the same E grade. Like it's as hard to climb an unprotected 5.10 as it is to lead a well-protected 11. You can see this in practice when people say they climb 5.12 on bolts but 5.10 trad.

You have a parasitic nose leech.

5.11 with poor pro is bread and butter E4.

Older editions did not have contours so make sure you get the newest edition.

Warm and mostly dry in the bluffs. Cold and damp at BOTG

Is this the "a whole party was partially buried off the Duffy" incident that was mentioned on avvy.ca?

Beacon is sooooooo representative of hard trad climbing The hardest climbs there are probably E4 or E5 on a scale that goes to E11... Tricams and nuts (and hooks for that matter) are placed regularly on the world's hardest trad routes. The pro for Master's Edge is one Friend and one Tricam.

Google "Backroads Mapbook"

I keep hoping those fixed lines will be removed. Good work getting up there. It's a longer approach for a shorter climb than Harvey.

Didn't JayB and partner climb that ice route at WI3+ about 4 years ago?

Let's consider this: Oh, yeah. omg, which came first, the chicken, the egg, or you when you saw that?

beastforum link?

What the fuck fertilized these eggs eh?

There's National Forest land out by Potosi.

Yeah, there's only what, 6 guidebooks for Vantage?

Little tricams - pink, red, brown and blue - are the best pieces in the world. Especially the pink one. Google "Ode to The Pink TriCam" for more info.

What about Omega the ice climb in NH or Scarpa Omegas, are they in there too?

When they open the new parking lot.

Learning not to hang while/after you place screws will make you a better climber. Hanging while placing screws will prevent you from advancing. You can make WI6 into WI4 by hanging every body length, but you'll never be a WI6 climber if you have to do that to get up a 6.

It's in the Smoot guidebook.

I am one of the workers in that picture and I find your comments sexist and oppressive. Remove it immediately or I will cry to a moderator.

It's a union job. That's why there are two guys working and two more guys getting paid to tell them how to do it.