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Everything posted by G-spotter
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How many windshirts in your quiver is a moderate amount? Today's climbers are better than you because they have more windshirts. I sent an email to Bill Belcourt at BD about this very matter.
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My Anna lies over the ocean My Anna lies over the sea My analyze over the ocean Oh bring back my anatomy.
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The hut will be built out of shotcrete, then?
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113 posts and not one "the coolest moderate climb is the one having teh mostest fun" ?
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poor girl. next time tell your partner you want at least half an hour lying down
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When I was 12 I won a pancake eating contest by asking the judges if my last remaining opponent puked if he would have to re-eat it to claim the prize. Just hearing my question made him hurl and he dropped out and I won.
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a REAL cascade hardman will eat anything that's free if you do puke, make sure to bring a baggie along and package it up, you can freezedry it and use it for bivy food later rehydrate in your jetboil and slurp it back down and its partly pre-digested so faster energy!
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There used to be a hut on Dance platform but it was destroyed by falling ice.
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It's called the Hedley Bluffs. Climbs were developed starting in the late 1960s. In the 80s and 1990s Outward Bound used the area extensively for cragging. The bluffs are located on private land and the land changed hands sometime in the early 90s. The current owner is reportedly unwilling to allow access. A little bit to the west there is some nice granite bouldering off the old Princeton to Hedley road on the north side of the river. You can even find a web guide on DrTopo.
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Dude. With a little work you could extend that to a couple MONTHS of slack time. "Yeah, I'm still having that email problem. I never got your TPS report. So sorry!"
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The question "Who Is G.A." is a great climber's trivia stumper.
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Are standards really rising? This seems to be the substance of fenderfour's argument. Lets say you have a total pool of a thousand climbers in a bygone era and ten of them can climb 5.12, and one can climb 5.13. 5.12 is therefore the pinnacle of difficulty, and 5.13 an unrepeatable achievement. Now fastforward 50 years. There are a million climbers. Only one in 100 climbers can still climb 5.12, but that means 10,000 climbers out of the million can climb 5.12, and a thousand climb 5.13. So 5.12s and 13s are getting done daily. This seems to be NOLSe's argument - that more climbers can do it therefore what is moderate has changed. But what I think f4 is arguing is that the relative proportion of climbers who can climb a particular grade has not changed. If you define "moderate" as what 50% of the climbing population can climb, for instance, that would not have changed much or at all between the two time periods and might still be at 5.9. Personally I think the answer is somewhere in the middle. Perhaps moreso for sheer technical difficulty than all-around ability. In mountaineering, things that were done or attempted 20 or 30 years ago like the N ridge of Latok 1 or the Shining Wall of G4 are still handing repeat suitors their asses regularly despite the rise in technical standards.
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WTF pink pointing?
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Washington drivers spend their whole life in the left lane driving slow until you go to pass 'em on the right, at which point they suddenly cut right and cut you off. That describes cc.com exactly.
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Sw Butt of the old Settler S Ridge of Gimli Brewers Buttress Angels Crest
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[TR] Overnighter at Harrison Bluffs - 4/13/2008
G-spotter replied to marc_leclerc's topic in British Columbia/Canada
Shark Tooth Flake is an old route of Shaun's - #33 in the guidebook. Easy flake leads to Exasperator-like finger locks, good fun, 5.9+ or 10a. -
[TR] Overnighter at Harrison Bluffs - 4/13/2008
G-spotter replied to marc_leclerc's topic in British Columbia/Canada
So what's the deal with the two climbs, two and three routes left of Great Expectations, that both have missing hangers? There is a 10+ slabby arete and a one-move wonder face climb (hard to grade, maybe 5.9) under a huge log that both have a couple of hangerless bolts? We climbed them both yesterday with small wires cinched over the hangers, but figured maybe they were supposed to still be projects and so didn't redpoint either one. Climbed those, Crystal Ether and Shark Tooth Flake - good times. Shaun is psyched to work on the offwidth roof, he gave it a couple of burns 10 years ago, and thinks it will go this time. -
Trick question, answerr is Bear holding a shark?
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I know how to thread the cord. It goes through the top of the slot, then through the hole, then out the bottom of the slot. The free end of the cord should be coming towards you once you are done. It works like a Reverso does if you set it up right - ie when its unweighted, you pull on the free end and it tightens up; when you weight it, it locks off. Use 6mm cord rather than the 7mm cord the manufacturer recommends. 7mm is hard to pull through and gets sheath damage. Tie a stopper knot like a figure 8 in the free end.
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Why won't a shark bite a lawyer? Professional courtesy.
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Prices at Costco (and Sam's Club) were lower than some major wholesalers. As a result, restaurants and caterers were bypassing the wholesalers and making large bulk buys from Costco and stores were running out. Hence the volume limit on sales.