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Fromage

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Everything posted by Fromage

  1. Red, 2 chest pockets, eVent 3-layer fabric. This thing is light- a hair over 12 oz. Simple, clean, great for alpine climbing. Used for a couple months, but gently. $160 shipped conUS or $150 picked up. PayPal okay or local pickup for cash in Seattle. Rab product site Link to Rab website for the specs.
  2. I have 3. I put them on the rope end of some ice climbing draws because they were so large they were easy to use with gloves. Then I swapped all my ice draws to wire gates. Thus the condition of my Fins is pretty good since they haven't seen much use. Stored in Ye Olde Rubbermaide Gear Bin. I think these went for about $13 each new. Hot forged biners were ahead of their time when these things came out. Make me an offer. Where are you located?
  3. Beyond Clothing in Seattle will tailor a pair of softshell pants to your measurements. I ordered a jacket from them a few years back, the fit was superb and the price reasonable. https://secure.beyondclothing.com/customize/mens-roughrider-pant-d/
  4. This crampon looks sweet. It appears to have all the advantages of the M10 and Dart with lighter weight and universal boot compatibility. All of these features are attractive. But I don't know if it's a game changer. I see new gear like this and think "Wow, that's neat," but then I remember pictures of Barry Blanchard, Jeff Lowe, Conrad Anker and Alex Lowe from the early nineties climbing M8-WI5 routes in full Gore-Tex suits and plastic boots, using Footfangs and straight-shafted tools. That gear seems obsolete today, but climbers were still getting up challenging routes with it. New products like the Lynx are certainly an improvement over what came before, but they are evolutionary rather than revolutionary. In ten years I'm going to be that guy at Marble Canyon who everyone looks at and whispers to their partner "Hey, check that dude out, he's rocking the museum gear. Are those M10s and Quarks? Those were sweet back in the day."
  5. I don't follow your logic here. Methinks if you are going to carry a piece of gear it should NOT be junk in case you need to use it. If you know you aren't going to use it, you shouldn't even bring it. This is why I leave my vintage tuba collection at home when I go climbing. On the other hand, if you buy a bunch of $12 POS titanium ice screws you'll be able to afford a decent life insurance policy with all the money you save.
  6. If you are planning on climbing Cho Oyu and don't know anything about down jackets you are in for an interesting trip. To increase your chances of returning alive, you should call the folks at Feathered Friends who know a thing or two about down gear and expedition outfitting. (206) 292-2210.
  7. These screws are irresistible for those climbers who suffer from CHOP: Cheapskate Objectivity Paralysis. I had some of these titanium screws many years ago and they were so inferior to everything else on the market. I finally donated them to a gear museum because I was worried I might actually make the bad decision of relying on one. I placed them but never found out if they really worked. O Former Soviet Bloc Titanium Ice Screws, how do you suck? Let me count the ways: 1. short tube length 2. small number of teeth (3) which easily bend and don't cut in water ice worth a damn 3. terrifyingly skinny thread profile 4. requiring much energy to place, when it's possible 5. smaller tube diameter You need to bail. This is a time when you need to have reliable gear. If you want to trust your life to a $12 piece of crap that is your decision to make, but before you make that choice it's good to ask if it's worth it. Buy one for $12. Compare it to any BD, Grivel, Petzl, Simond, or other reputable steel crew on the market. You'll gain a newfound appreciation for those $40 screws. It's a cheap lesson.
  8. I have been using the Vireo for about 5 years. Best bag I have ever owned. From my fleet of many bags this is the one I use about 70% of the time. Coldest I've used it was in the upper 20s in winter in the North Cascades (with a hooded Volant), have also been comfortable on several Rainier climbs (even in May). You can rent a Vireo from FF and if you like it they will apply the cost of the rental towards your purchase. The store used to have a deal where if you bought the Vireo and a jacket together you'd get a 15% package discount. Buy this bag. The long one. Pair it with a Hooded Helios for summer & shoulder season trips. You will wish you had discovered this combo years ago. I have a Cilo 45l that has worked for 2-day trips, but it is a squeeze. And that is with my Vireo, a tarp tent, rack, rope, and compact stove/pot. A 30 might be stretching it. I think FF also has one of these you can borrow for free to try out.
  9. Have you ever climbed at 3,000m in Europe in any season? More to the point, have you ever worn such gear? Here's a fun challenge for you: go into any gear store that has an expedition down suit in stock (this is the hard part, there aren't many), you know, the kind of suit that climbers wear on summit day on Everest. Zip it up, put on the hood, close all the velcro, cinch down all the cords. Then stand there for five minutes doing nothing. Then do jumping jacks for five minutes. Then do sit-ups for five minutes. The answer to your question will become immediately apparent.
  10. I have both the Rab Momentum (like the Latok Alpine but 11ish ounces) and the Alpha LT. I traded up from the Latok Alpine to the Momentum for the weight savings. Both jackets have been great and have never missed the pit zips. I don't need both jackets so if you're interested in either one I would consider selling one. Both are in great shape, just picked up the Momentum recently and have been storing the Alpha LT in the closet. Send a PM if you want to come check them out (assuming that you're in the Quah and not FL).
  11. BD is about 16 years behind the curve on this one. Anyone remember the Stubai Genius? I discovered this when I lived in France. It is an auto-locking rope-end biner for draws. Simple concept, simple mechanics, elegant engineering. The biner only locked itself under a load greater than 200 pounds or so, the beauty being that you could open the gate under body weight but when loaded in a fall it would lock itself. Once again BD is killing flies with a satellite guided bomb. Someone will buy it. Anyone want to offer a guess for how long until this is recalled?
  12. Yes. They work great until they don't. Down mat needs to be inflated with a clever pump that is part of the stuff sack: breathing into it is problematic as it introduces moisture into the down. Back in ye goode olde guiding daze one of my fellow guides loved his down mat and raved about it. Then on day 1 of a 6-day glacier course the pad deflated and he couldn't find the leak. He was bummed. Pros: light, compact, warm Cons: a complex design
  13. 18oz for what? Mont Bell website lists fill weight at 6.7oz, total weight at 25.2oz. That's a big difference between the fill weight and total weight. The FF Volant, by comparison, weighs 26oz (with hood) and has 10oz of down in it. Plus the fabrics FF uses are way more water resistant.
  14. I second billcoe's recommendation. I own a 45 liter Cilo woven Dyneema pack, one of the earlier versions, and it's by far my favorite pack for 1-2 day trips. Great fit, simple, customizable. The more recent versions are probably even better.
  15. Sold, thank ye very much.
  16. That video also featured many excellent examples of what not to do while ice climbing. Such as: - using your ice tool as a belay anchor. - stacking screws, not only useless but time and energy intensive. - confusing belay commands, "Okay, Bird, we're safe." - using Snargs "the dreaded pound-in" (Jeff, was that a euphemism?) It had some memorable narration: "Drink deep of the heady wines of climbing in the canyon" or something like that.
  17. You can use mine. I have a pair of Koflach Verticals, both with lightly used stock liners and Intuition liners (molded to my feet, which are probably different from your dad's). My feet are size 15. I have climbed Baker several times, and after the first trip I gave up on taking my plastics. For every subsequent trip I used the Scarpa Triolets, which, while a bit snug in size 48, were much lighter and plenty warm for the conditions. At 65 your dad might appreciate the warmth of a plastic, but damn they are lousy on the dirt portion of the approach. Located in Seattle. Send PM if you have questions. I have crampons, too. Feathered Friends also rents those, and I could loan my extend-o-spreader bars to make them fit my boots.
  18. Linky no worky. Warning: as a recovering statistician and social science researcher, I have seen a survey or two in my time and take them more seriously than most. Since the survey isn't opening for me, I can offer this: If you want meaningful results from your survey, your sample needs to be truly random. For exploring such a specific research question (as I can infer from the other posters' replies), this is rather challenging to achieve. If you post a request to take your survey here, or on other climbing discussion boards, you do not get a random sample. You get a self-selecting sample of people who read internet discussion boards. This is not a statistically valid sample and by extension any conclusions you draw from it will be meaningless. Granted, this is a class project that is on sociology- not a doctoral thesis- and the guidelines for research methodology are probably pretty relaxed. Even so, be cautious in how you present your findings.
  19. Price reduced to $750
  20. $280 local pickup Can ship at buyer's expense, can take PayPal
  21. Did you buy that pack at Bivouac in Ann Arbor between 1995-1998? If you did, I probably sold it to you.
  22. Sold pending funds. Thank you for playing.
  23. Selling: four (4) gently used Thule Super High Feet (part # 953). Includes feet, bolts, and clamps for mounting on rain gutters. A couple pieces of hardware are missing, your local Thule dealer or the Thule website can furnish them. Price $80. (retail is $210) one (1) Thule 65" load bar (part # LB65), in great shape, includes end caps. $20. (retail is $80/pair) This setup is ideal if you need a lot of clearance between your gutters and the top of your roof. Send pm with questions or to set up a time to come check them out. Product info is on Thule website. Parts are located in Seattle, I'll ship the 4 feet in a USPS flat rate box at buyer's expense ($15) anywhere in conUS. Thule website
  24. For sale: K2 Shuksanne 167cm skis. Condition: never ever used. Not even once. Mounted with Fritschi Freerides. Also never ever used. BD Ascension STS skins 110mm. Condition: trimmed to a wider ski, used once. Need to be trimmed further to work with these skis. Garmont Megastar boots, size 25.5. 4-buckle Dynafit compatible with thermo-moldable liner. Condition: used a couple of times, liner molded, can be re-molded. Prices Whole shebang (skis, bindings, skins, boots): $900 A la carte skis + bindings: $600 skins: $100 boots: $400 mix & match: negotiable Send PM with questions or to set up a time to check out the goods.
  25. Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?
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