Fromage

Word. My first rope was a Blue Water 11mm. I climbed for 2 years on it and then gave it to a friend. It looked like the day I bought it. That said, my Beal 8.1mm ice lines have taken a right thrashing on Lillooet ice adventure climbs, Cascade alpine routes, and getting dragged around on glaciers. They have held up remarkably well.

North side of Silver Peak, just east of Snoqualmie Pass. I was just up there skiing last week. Lots of snow. It's not super steep, but there are no crevasses (it's not glaciated) and the slopes are wide open with no trees or large debris to hit if you go for Mister Toad's Wild Ride. Bonus: you can drive up dirt roads past the PCT and hike in easily. From car to steep snow is about one hour. Plus you can scramble the ridge to the summit while you're up there. It's good to practice travel on snow to build confidence and it's even better to have an experienced friend teach you some skills on footwork. Walking efficiently in the snow is not as easy as it sounds, and the steeper it gets the more important technique becomes. Have fun wherever you go!

Arc'teryx Needle 55 alpine climbing pack, frame size Large. Weighs about 4 pounds, capacity is closer to 57 liters. Main compartment, removable lid, and front compartment. Known issues: there is a small hole in a seam on the side of the pack near the bottom (see photo). Not a critical issue but in the long term it would be best to repair it before it becomes a problem. Otherwise it's in good shape and has lots of life left in it. Slightly dirty on the bottom of the outside from use, inside is clean and no smells. Buckles, zippers, straps all intact and in good condition. It's been a damn fine pack and I have half a mind to keep it. $120 pickup in Seattle or buyer pays shipping. These sold for ~$250 new. Send pm or holla back in this thread if you're interested. Can meet downtown during weekday business hours or further afield during evenings/weekends.

http://www.nytimes.com/2012/07/13/world/europe/deadly-avalanche-surprises-french-alpine-town-of-chamonix.html?_r=1&hp Yikes. I remember looking at Maudit from the summits of Mont Blanc and Mont Blanc du Tacul and thinking an enchainement of these three peaks would be a great climb. It's an impressive mountain but this slide sounds freakish. 9 climbers taken out. Bizarre conditions for this time of year. PARIS — At least nine European climbers were swept to their deaths early Thursday by an avalanche that left at least 11 injured and four climbers unaccounted for in France’s Mont Blanc mountain range, authorities said. World Twitter Logo. Connect With Us on Twitter Follow @nytimesworld for international breaking news and headlines. Twitter List: Reporters and Editors Officials believe the avalanche, at about 13,000 feet, started when a 16-inch thick sheath of ice broke off and slid down the northern face of Mont Maudit, which abuts Mont Blanc. The slide gathered mass, transforming into a 50-yard onslaught of snow, according to the gendarme service in the alpine city of Chamonix. A large climbing party of 28, roped into two groups, as well as about 10 other climbers were on the mountain when the avalanche struck, sweeping up some in its path. Eric Fournier, the mayor of Chamonix, told reporters that no weather bulletin had been issued warning of an avalanche, and that shifting ice sheets could have caused the disaster. There was some speculation that a recent spell of warm weather might have weakened the ice. Manuel Valls, the French interior minister, said he would arrive in Chamonix on Thursday and expressed his deep sadness, saying that the authorities would investigate. The accident adds to this year’s alpine death toll. On July 3, five German climbers fell to their deaths in the Swiss Alps, plunging several hundred yards while descending the 13,155-foot Lagginghorn. Investigators are looking at what role ice beneath the snow might have played. At 14,648 feet, Mont Maudit offers routes that are among the most challenging and treacherous in the world. About 30 people a year die in the Swiss Alps, while Mont Maudit alone claims dozens a year, though not usually in such large groups. Rescuers said they were first alerted to the accident at 5:25 a.m. by a climber who managed to escape. Officers from the gendarmerie in the Haute-Savoie region joined sniffer dogs, helicopters and rescue workers combing the mountainside for survivors. By early afternoon, two climbers had been rescued and emergency crews were searching for the missing. Mr. Valls said in a statement that the death count — initially estimated at six — was preliminary, while police said four people remained unaccounted for. Bertrand François, the head of the Haute-Savoie rescue squad, said the dead included two Spaniards, three Germans and one Swiss and three people whose nationalities were not yet known. British news reports said three of the victims were British. The group was also believed to have included climbers from Denmark, France and Serbia, some of whom, for reasons as yet unknown, turned back before the avalanche fell. The 11 injured were hospitalized at the nearby town of Sallanches, officials said. Mr. François offered some hope for the missing climbers, saying it was possible that they had been ahead of the rest of the group or had taken a different route and had not been swept away. “It doesn’t necessarily mean they are under the avalanche,” he told reporters. Jean-Louis Verdier, a senior official in Chamonix said that the avalanche had come as a shock. “We had no more reason than usual to be alarmed,” Mr. Verdier told Reuters TV. “It’s a steep mountain face. There are big plates of snow we know of where an avalanche can easily occur. But this morning we had no reason to expect an avalanche of this size and such a tragedy.”

Top 3 pieces, rock: #1 Camalot #7 Stopper Yellow Alien Top 3 passive pieces, rock: #7 Stopper #5 DMM Wallnut Pink Tricam Top 3 passive pieces, alpine: 24" Yates picket Knifeblade double-length spectra runner

Climb Mount Baker via the Easton Glacier. Stick your head over the crater rim before you hop onto the Roman Wall and take a whiff. Should smell about the same. Part and parcel of volcano climbing. To paraphrase Apocalypse Now... "I love the smell of hydrogen sulfide in the morning!"

Have you considered doubles? Look at Beal's Ice Line. I'm on my second set of those and love them. Climbing alpine with doubles has many advantages over a single that outweigh (pun intended) the weight penalty, at least in my book. Mammut also makes some excellent skinny doubles that are quite light.

I second the recommendations for Chris Simmons and Mark Allen. I have personally worked with Mark and can vouch for his quality as a guide. I have personally drunk beers with Chris and can vouch for his personality.

Axe is sold. Two folks in line for the gaiters. One person in line for the gloves.

Water filter is sold. One person is in line for gaiters. Several folks in line for the axe, working through the list. Thanks for all the interest.

Original post updated to reflect availability. Shoes, helmet, harness, chalk bag are all sold. Thanks!

Helmet and chalkbag sold pending funds.

Having climbed Rainier, WI5, and 5.10, my wife has decided to retire from climbing to focus on other things. I'm selling some of her gear for her. Given the brief time she spent in the mountains, everything here is in almost new shape except where otherwise noted. I can meet in Seattle for cash transactions or can ship at buyer's expense (will take PayPal). Given the condition of the gear I think these prices are fair, but I'm willing to give a discount if you purchase multiple items. 1. Climbing harness, Arc'teryx medium, adjustable leg loops $50 SOLD 2. Chalk bag, La Sportiva, black, includes chalk ball and belt $10 SOLD 3. Helmet: Petzl Elios, small, almost new, has one sticker on it $50 SOLD 4. Climbing shoes: women's La Sportiva Mythos, size 37, good condition, lots of rubber left on original soles, not stinky! $50 SOLD 5. Gloves: Mountain Hardwear size XS Gore-Tex XCR, Schoeller fabric, fleece lined, barely used, these are sweet! $60 (only $6 per finger) 6. Mittens: Outdoor Research pile liners, size small $5 7. Ice axe: Black Diamond Raven Pro, 60cm, used once on Rainier $60 SOLD 8. Water filter: Katadyn hiker, all parts included, storage bag, used on 1 trip $40 SOLD 9. Gaiters: OR Crocodiles, Gore-Tex, size medium, no holes or abrasion $40 Send PM if you want any of this stuff.

I'd buy the Dark Star if it came with a 9,000 cubic inch backpack to carry it in. Nothing says "compressibility" like a -20 synthetic bag.

I wasn't aware that Black Diamond manufactured titanium ice screws. Can you please explain how you know they are titanium? I looked on the BD website and it only shows 2 kinds of ice screws, both of which are made from chrome-moly steel. If you are unsure about the material, you can weigh them. The weight specs for these (steel) screws as listed on the BD website are: 145g/5.1oz for the blue one 168g/5.9oz for the green one Put them on a scale and if they weigh at least one ounce less than the published weights above, then they might be titanium. For comparison's sake, titanium ice screws made by Ushba weigh 3.9oz and 4.9oz respectively for comparable sizes. If your screws are within a few grams of the weights listed on the BD website, they are most likely made from steel. http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/shop/climb/ice-protection/express-ice-screw http://www.ushba.com/catalog/ice.html

My experience is that the Tri-Cam is a specialized piece of gear that works very well in a narrow range of situations. I agree that to an extent their utility is dependent on the type of rock and local conditions. I don't use my Tri-Cams much in the Cascades, but when I climbed in North Carolina I relied heavily on the three smallest sizes. They fit great into features where other pro would not. Same in Red River Gorge, Kentucky (sandstone).

A good route plan for this weekend would be to drive east on Highway 2, turn right on Icicle Creek Canyon Rd, enjoy some cragging in the sun and do a repeat ascent of the bar stools in Gustav's. Having been on Rainier a bunch of times in lousy conditions I don't feel a need to seek that out anymore, but that may just be me. Old, cantankerous, and selective. Ten years ago I thought it was fun to suffer on volcanoes in crummy weather. That's also part of the luxury of living here, it doesn't matter if the weather sucks this weekend because you can always go next weekend if it's better. Not so much when you are visiting from out of state.

This is a great bag at a good price. My wife has one and loves it. While she is cozy and comfy in her 10-degree Petrel I am usually halfway out of my Vireo. This is why having women's-specific sleeping bag designs is a good idea.

Congratulations. Did you get a lollipop, too?

I have 3 that I'm willing to sell. My experience was similar to Gene's in that the original poster also declined my offer. He said he wanted older biners for less than the price of new, that's what I offered, and the ensuing discussion was entertaining to say the least. Ultimately, like with Gene, we were unable to agree on a price. PM if you want them.

I have used the Black Diamond Lighthouse tent (similar to Firstlight, but larger) on both Baker and Rainier. Even when guyed out with rocks at Camp Schurman that tent did not hold up in the wind as well as my Bibler Eldorado does. It was tolerable, but not exactly confidence inspiring. That said, I would do it again because carrying a 3+ pound tent to high camp on Rainier or Baker (instead of a 5+ pound single wall or 9+ pound expedition tent) is worth the wind stability tradeoff. Check the forecast before you go. I have also spent a lot of time in the older Mountain Hardwear Kiva and Dana Designs Nuktuk, which are single-pole, pyramid type tents. I've used those at 13,000' in winter conditions in Wyoming and found that a really high wind will flatten them, even if guyed. If you have a calm forecast for your volcano trips then I think you will be comfortable in your tent. Depending on your campsite on Rainier you can sometimes find wind walls constructed by previous climbers, i.e. Ingraham Flats. The sturdiest tent on the mountain, however, is the public hut at Muir, and since that is already there you don't have to carry it. Just bring earplugs. If you're climbing the Easton side of Baker the high camp area at ~6,500' is sheltered.

FF has good selection, stuff you won't find anywhere else. The peeps know their stuff, too. FF typically carries a wide range of softshell pants, so chances are good you'll find some good choices.

Correct. And this will affect the length of the bag. A tuck-stitched Vireo will be slightly shorter than a top-stitched Vireo. And more expensive, since it will involve custom production. Off the shelf I think the Vireo is fine as-is. FF offers their bags and jackets in combinations of fabric and construction features that they think maximizes the usefulness of the design. Individuals are always welcome to change things up a bit, but that's a premium you pay for.

I used to feel the same way. I owned a WM Apache Super DryLoft for a number of years and it served me well. I was convinced I had the Lamborghini of sleeping bags. But when my Apache was in decline after a long and glorious career, I discovered Feathered Friends. Ten years later in my FF bags and I'm never going back. The WM-FF discussion is kind of like comparing a Ferrari to a Lamborghini. There is a clear difference in quality between these bags and bags from other manufacturers, but the differences in quality between FF and WM are so small that they almost amount to personal preference. The thing that sold me on FF was their hood designs, the tuck stitch construction (more durable than WM's top stitch) and fabrics. I found them to be warmer and more comfortable than WM's. Then I picked up a Vireo and unless I'm going car camping I use that bag almost exclusively. It's light, it's comfortable, it stays dry, it is specialized and does its job extremely well. I've slept in mine comfortably on Rainier, N Cascades in early spring, it is brilliant. I think the most versatile combo is the Vireo with the Hooded Helios. If you're not convinced, you can rent a Vireo from FF and if you like it they will apply the rental cost towards a purchase. Free test drive!

Sold, thank you very much.