Fromage

Attend un moment, dude. Moi, JE SUIS FROMAGE, mais je ne suis pas ton "fromage monkey." Et en plus, tres pres de tous les magasins 3S a Chamonix il y a des restos excellents avec la fondue a la raclette. As we say in American, "bitchin'!"

Hey gang, can anyone point me to some definitive source that states who owns the land where Index Town Wall is located? I just read the WA State Parks page for Wallace Falls St. Park, and the wording suggested that the climbing area was part of the park. I was under the impression that the USFS owned the land. Any info?

Recently there was a deteriorating thread about Beacon Rock being closed for raptor nesting. Access issues aside, can folks please describe what the climbing is like on the rock? I have only walked up the gumby tourist trail to the summit. info I'm looking for is - number of routes - rock quality - difficulty of routes - degree of development (rap anchors/gardening/rockfall?) - types of routes (trad, sport, aid) - unusual features or hazards worth noting - is this area covered in a guidebook? Thanks Stilton

Hey sastrugi-head, I have a thermarest in my truck that wasn't there when we left for Muir. It is identical to yours but is full length. I think it was left by our unfortunate guest and she didn't take it with her when she left. If I can't get it back to her it will need a good home. And hey, chili dogs are Profigliano!

Wow, that was generous of them. Did you take your crampons off first? Too bad you missed the in the parking lot. Troubleski is on his way back to his new friend.

Ryland, I was with the guy and the super strong girl. Unless I am mistaken it was I who lent you/your buddy the tools to adjust his crampons.

They are good guys. I talked to several of them at Marble, a couple of them recognized me from the rescue last year at the Rambles. We were grateful for their help and on this meeting I was impressed by the group leaders who seemed pretty well-organized. My Rude Fucking Americans comment was a parody of my own party's behavior on the weekend of Jan 18-20 and some of the reactions to us written on this board. Excellent! You have the attitude necessary for success in Chamonix. Sorry, no other beta on other areas, but my uninformed conjecture is that if Marble was that wet, other, lower routes are beyond Hope (literally and figuratively). Cheers

Spurious condition reports be damned. Ignore uninformed speculation by people who sit in front of computers (myself included). There is lots of ice to climb in Lillooet. Over the course of two days my partner(s) or I climbed nearly every route that was climbable on the lower tier of Marble. Most lines are eminently climbable, some are wet, some are chandeliered, but many are plastic and healing quickly. The indefatigable Mr. B even climbed the M8 corner route, including a short fall on the fourth bolt and a couple aided moves through the overhung bit, but overall a lovely bit of work. If I could somehow affix my crampons to my kayak the second pitch of Icy BC might go, but right now it is a gushing tube. The third pitch was also a bit damp but featured three very graceful lines. The pencil route on the right by the pine tree on the ledge is coming in nicely, may be in good shape by the festival. Today there was also an interesting rescue involving a drunk ice fisherman, but maybe I'll go post about that on Spray. Unfortunately there were a bunch of Rude Fucking Americans there who were so loud, obnoxious, and incompetent that it made me embarrassed to live in the western hemisphere. They knocked off so much ice it was disgraceful, they could have found work for the Soviet navy as nuclear icebreakers on arctic voyages. Oh wait, that was January 18-20, sorry for the confusion. As it was, I brought my acetylene welding torch (alpine model, of course) to superheat my picks and crampons so they would melt into the ice with each placement, thus avoiding all fracturing, dinnerplating, shattering, and other icefall that is so insulting to the true elite of our civilized sport. An observant point by jja. I, too, noticed the colorful commentary in the Mile 0 guest log. I am duly thankful for the information contained therein. Were it not for the incontrovertible evidence in those pages, I would never have known the truth about certain CC members' sexual orientation or their apparent lack of respect for others. May good weather, good conditions, and safe climbing await you.

Oops, sorry, it's not Tenzing's grandson, it is "the grandson of the only surviving sherpa to accompany Hillary."

Check out this interesting article in today's New York Times. The grandson of Tenzing Norgay is bringing the internet to Mt. Everest. http://nytimes.com/2003/01/23/technology/circuits/23sher.html?8hpib

Bernard, that sounds pretty interesting. Do BC Parks consider the route farming an anthropogenic disruption tantamount to a dam or other construction? If the folks who created the diversion wanted to be "official" about it, would they have had to apply for a permit of some sort to alter the water flow? Did BC Parks only want to be asked nicely? I'd be grateful if you could furnish more details on the situation. Cheers- Stilton

so...about those Marble Canyon conditions... Sorry to detract from the engaging discussion of speeding tickets and long range avalanche assessment, but does anyone have any fresh info (more recent than Sunday)? On the ice conditions I mean, not the guys in red jackets and silly hats. See you at Marble bright and early on Sat.

Hey gang, I am looking to maximize the utility of my climbing time for the summer, and since I haven't spent a whole lot of time in the North Cascades it would be criminal of me to neglect them any further. Some peaks I am considering are these: Logan Forbidden Eldorado Buckner Goode The attributes I seek are minimally confusing approaches (I know, these are the North Cascades), aesthetically pleasing routes, technical difficulty of 5.7 max (for speed), and proximity to established campgrounds along major trail systems (LNT considerations). Please let me know your thoughts on these peaks if you have done them, or suggest some others you think merit consideration. Thanks

Anyone have any info about conditions in NCNP for the coming weekend? From recent posts it sounds like conditions might be decent, but I'm wondering if it will hold through Sunday. I'm looking to leave Friday midday and hit the trail early on Sat. for something, not sure what yet. Thoughts, speculations and recommendations appreciated. Rock on

Yeah, I'll be passing through Munising on my way to Detroit from Seattle. Say ya tooda UP, eh Have fun up there!

On another note, don't be afraid to wash your clothes, too. You come back from a climbing trip and throw all your nasty socks and base layers in the corner of your room or closet, what does that accomplish? Talk about losing breathability, people will suffocate if they walk into range of that stench. Washing your rock shoes occasionally helps, too.

Thanks for all the great ideas, guys. This helpful cornucopia of feedback will make my trip smoother. Cheers! Fromage

Hey gang, I am headed to the Tetons for ten days at the end of this month, and having never been before I would like to know if anyone has any info on the following topics: 1. Where is a good place to slog up to and make a high camp from which to do most of the classics on the Grand (Exum, O-S, Petzoldt, etc.)? 2. Anyone ever had any problems with wildlife? Especially the non-human kind, but I guess the question lends itself to smartass answers. 3. Has anyone been there late season before? Your thoughts and recommendations? Any other beta or suggestions for a fun, pleasant, safe trip are appreciated. Merci- Fromage

If you left some gear on Orchard Rock, email me with a description of what it was and we can make arrangements to return it. njbratton@hotmail.com

Actually, Pedestrian, despite the notorious methods and ethics of the French, the American Triangle is a remarkably stupid invention by the Yanks. I remember reading in John Long's "Climbing Anchors" that the AT was popularized among Yosemite climbers in the 1970s. I witnessed all sorts of surprising things in France and while I generally feel safer climbing in this country, seeing the occasional American Triangle reminds me that even folks over here make dumb mistakes from time to time, only not quite as flambuoyant as the French. Vive la Raclette!

Fortunately this controversy is diverting attention from my proposal, which is to operate a heli-cragging business. Clients drive from Seattle/Bellevue to the Little Si parking lot, leave their cars, climb into the ex-Soviet 1978 Mil-Mi 24 Hind that I purchased thirdhand from the Mozambican army, and I fly them up to the remote base of the crag. For a few extra bucks I can fly them to the summit for a panoramic view of North Bend. This operation will insert expeditions into the deep backcountry to climb infrequently ascended one-pitch routes. I figure $600 per person per day is a reasonable rate. Any comments can be sent to fromage@fly.littlesi.com

mon fromage prefere c'est cantal. Les varietes alpines sont les meillieures- tomme, raclette, etc. Bon appetit.

Anyone been up there lately? How is the approach, how is the ice, how is the snow above the ice? Merci Fromage

If you lost a watch at Little Si, I found it on Friday May 10. Email me with a description accurate enough to convince me it's yours and I will send it to you. nick@adventure-pro.com. Fromage

Hey Bronco, I was at the Republic of Peshistan on Sat as well. Surprised to see so few people out there, last time I went the place was packed. Did my first 5.11a onsight (TR), those slabs are FUN!!! Then I soloed up a barstool at Gustav's. Fromage