Figger_Eight

http://www.escrs.org/eurotimes/April2003/lasik.asp

http://www.wemjournal.org/wmsonline/?req...1&page=0053

Yup...this is a great place for aluminum crampons

OMG please lord, don't let me hear anything more disgusting this week Hey Cory...remember that time up North when...ahhh nevermind.

You might also be hitting some rocks on the ridge up to 17k camp. Another bad place for a broken crampon.

Right on Those are the trips you'll remember for years.

Congrats on the ascent The conditions on the mountain are kinda goofy this year with Spring conditions happening so early!

No, but it's worth $26 at your local climbing shop

I would suggest getting a proper pair of plastic double boots rather than the Alphas for all the reasons Gene mentioned. The Jet Boil is a great stove for what it was designed for, but it wasn't expedition climbing. If it's going to be used for a team, expect to have the thing going at least an hour each day to melt water. The cup on the Jet Boil is way too small to melt a lot of water - you'll be having to sit there tending it constantly. With an XGK and a big pot you'll just need to lift the lid every few minutes to keep track of it.

body integrity identity disorder = AID

Improbably Cool pics

You

Plunk down the money for the one piece suit - I lived in mine and loved it You can now ditch the fleece pants (heavy and bulky), especially if you're bringing another pair of insulated ones - your boots come nearly up to your knees anyways. Consider leaving the belay jacket also. When you're moving it will be too warm, especially with a big pack on, and you already have the softshell and gtex. When you're stopped, just throw the big parka on (Nautica...?).

Ummm...nice chicken wire?

Dang Ken - sounds like you're finding all sorts of big adventure out there Thanks for sharing

An MP3 cd player works great up there. You can store a ton of music in MP3 format on a couple of cd's. Bring small external speakers so you can annoy your climbing partners with the same annoying song every morning A full on ascender is great for the fixed lines, and after futzing around with a couple of different systems - using a Tibloc for the descent worked pretty good for me too.

Wild Things stuff is the shiz. And you're buying stuff made in the good ole' u.s of a.

Plastic shovels suck ass.

1 vote for the Alp Wings.

I had a lot of trouble with those boots as well. Koflach boots rock.

I've spent a lot of time in my Transition shirt. Regardless of how cold it is, I'll still sweat it out - then it gets clammy. I wear it for the ascent, then change out of it into a polypro shirt and my soft shell jacket. It is good for yo-yo skiing. I'll overheat in it for a short time, but can just head down the hill and stay reasonably warm.

I guess I'm the only one around here who likes the Nike watch . After having gone through an Avocet and a Casio, my Nike is by far the easiest to use, see and the most comfortable to wear - in fact I wear it a lot when I'm going on training runs. It's ben up Rainier a few times and survived a trip to Alaska. I've changed the battery in it once, taking it to one of those places at the mall where they sell watch batteries. The best part of my watch is that I got it at the outlet store for less than $150 bucks. I've never tried a Suunto watch - they're so big they just look silly on my wrist. My .02 cents at least.

You actually want a little bit of edge showing so you can set them in hard snow on traverses. Don't worry about it.

I've never believed in Gore-Tex boots either - especially ones made from synthetics. They're nearly impossible to waterproof, and even if there's GTX in them, they still get soaked with water, weigh 3 pounds more and make your feet cold. The original green Trangos rocked cuz you could coat them with wax. I dig the Garmont Pinnacle for this reason.