roger_johnson

Another thought: the rangers have to talk to the lowest level of competence. They have to assume everyone is a Gumby, not someone fresh from the N.Face of La Droite.

Well, actually, I am thinking of Gary (Oldman?), crap! can't remember his last name. Ranger in the 70s and 80s; probably still in the NPS. I usually just go and find out for myself, don't need any hand holding.

Just like MATTP said, the rangers used to inspect the gear of Rainier hopefuls and actually tested ice axes (wood shafts) to see that the axe would not break when using a boot/axe belay. They broke a friends axe during the test and denied him permission to climb. In 1964 we were denied permission to attempt Denali (still considered a highly risky and remote peak) because we hadn't enough high altitude expeience. We had already done Baker, Glacier and St. Helens in the winter (with some horrindous conditions). We were denied a permit to attempt Rainier in winter, "A winter attempt is too serious, too risky". I must say though, the Rangers have a thankless job. They have to babysit lots of tourists who have no clue about the preservation of the environment and want thier "nature" surved on a platter. The Rangers have to placate or handle the yuppies who think the rules apply to th "other" people because the yups "know what they are doing". The Rangers have always been informative and honest with me; I like to think it is because I try to treat them with respect and patience.

I've been using the same mind set ever since I started climbing concerning bivys and what gear to take. A light weight sac, all needed climbing gear (pared down to the minimum), a sweater, wind coat, hat and gloves, ediable food and water bottle. Depending on the rt., one ice axe, one pair of crampons, a thin rope. No stove, no bivy sacks, no foam pads, no electronic devices(sound or navagation). The idea is to lighten the load so that moving over tough terrain is easy and FUN! You can tough it out for a few nights, play like your an Afgan.

Is that a little red cake? Must have had a small brew, a pitcher would have taken longer to drain...

W You stated "To understand something is to be infinitely capable of dealing with it rightly and with finality"Isn't that the crux of the climb? To Understand...Anything and everything is open to interpretation. It is hard enoug to get two people to agree on some things let alone two nations or two religions or two economic classes. I find it very educational to rad newspapers from other parts of the world to get new prespectives on the USA and our place in the world. Even the BBC gives a new angle to our world posture. DW tv out of Berlin has another slant. How to know and undestand?

W- aRE YOU SAYING THAT ALL THE DEAD GIs IF WW2 WERE THINKING OF "ME" FIRST? wERE THE NURENBURG TRIALS JUST ANOTHER WAY OF JUSTIFING THE WORLD WIDE RESPONCE TO THE NAZI EXTERMINATION OF THE JEWS? DID NOT THE PROTESTS OF THE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIES BRING A SWIFTER END TO THE VIET NAM "CONFLICT"?

It is the Java Jive. "An unusual place."

MATT-Thanks for posting the Sec.Generals acceptance speech for the Nobel. Thought provoking words. "We are the World" coke

with anticipation I got mine down to .05

Listen: if your going to be drinking Mekong River Whiskey you might as well drink a pint at the minimum. Make sure you poision yourself all the way; don't want to suffer. While talking about sterotyping: I recall a recent thread that brutalized Telemark skiers as "ass-holes". Not fair, unamerican slander?

I agree. A thoughtful post on a "button" topic. Properly spaced and placed bolts make a climb possible with a reasonable amount of commitment(risk) while bolts too close together eliminate the commitment; it becomes almost like hiking a ladder.. On long slab climbs with easier sections the bolts can be spaced further apart because the commitment factor goes down. The long runouts at Tuolumne are legendary; bolts place on lead. After climbig there for a while the long runouts that gripped at first become much more reasonable, at least in the mind. There is a learning curve and a numbing curve.

Simpson might be cursed. I've always thought that Wickwire had the curse too. Lots of wreckage along the way behind him.

I don't think he is "freakin out". He wasn't threatening or being irrational... Sounds like he was stating his view point.

I don't think he is "freakin out". He wasn't threatening or being irrational... Soounds like he was stating his view point.

Chuck, that is a great site! thanks!

looking for info. on the cirque. Is there a web site with the latest info on rts, new and old?

yep, iron horse and city park... just screwing around. First climbed with fred over 37 years ago and he was a machine. Approached and climbed with an unbelievable focus. Kept his eye on the prize. Driving to the climbs was the same way, late at night, standing up out the drivers door, steering and barely awake. Start hiking the minute we hit roads end.

I beleive Becky was born in 1921. Makes him 80!