telemarker

It will be infinitely more interesting once it's been highly edited and theme music added for the next Reel Rock.

Wow that's quite the detailed TR! Thanks for sharing the story. The Backbone can be a sandbag in terms of length. And the Fin can be tedious climbing on loose rock, which is time consuming. As for the descent, I always think it's a sandbag when people recommend leaving the pons. That descent slope is steeper than you think. Late season I like to hike around the backside of the Witches Tit to the east and double back to Asgaard Pass, which is easy and safe class 3 hiking with little to no snow. But in your case in a blinding snowstorm would probably not have been possible. Good job sticking it out with no frozen digits!

Wow you've healed remarkably, though I'm sure the pain is ever present, like whenever you accidentally hit your fingertips against the rock. Or like you said it starts to get cold out. Your affected fingers are the first to tell you it's cold out. I got minor frostbite a couple years back (pic below). The recovery was long and painful even though it was just a small area of my finger. I couldn't even imagine the pain you must have gone through over the past couple years. There were times I'd hit my fingertip against something and I'd want to pass out from pain. It's not surprising at all you didn't notice it. Frostbite is an insidious condition. Comes on without your noticing, but takes years to recover, though the recovery is never 100%, as I'm learning.

Major. This is cc.com. you should be impressed when correct punctuation is used.

Romney 2016!

Your annual November trip to Colchuck I'm surprised you didn't go get scared on the NE Couloir of Dragontail. I love climbing those red lines! Nice one you guys. Happy birthday you ancient bastard. I'm sure the Frenchman got plenty of photos too.

Situation B(2): Do you post on Cascade Climbers Lost and Found asking for it back?

AK-47 can be grandfathered in.

If this cuts down on or eliminates GoPro footage of rock or ice climbing, I'm all for it.

My PM's aren't working so email only or text: 509-699-9810.

You're preferred sacrificial modality is by choking it?

Anyone interested in a cruiser day on SCW? A two-fer of maybe hyperspace with a warm down on something else. Whatever. PM or email: touring29@gmail Thanks! John

Well the accompanying soundtrack is certainly dramatic.

Trip: Washington Pass - Liberty Crack and West Face NEWS Date: 9/6/2014 Trip Report: It's early Fall which ushers in prime WA Pass season. Dean and I jumped on the perfect weather to climb Liberty Crack on Liberty Bell as well as the West Face route on North Early Winter Spire. This was Dean's first time climbing up there so I wanted to give him a good tour. Much has been written on these oft-climbed routes so I will just add eye candy and bullet point beta. **We pitched out the first 3 pitches then combined 4/5, 6/7, 8/9, 10 to the top. With a 70m rope, each pitch after the 3rd was 68 to 70m pitches. **the horror story fixed heads of pitch 3 have been removed thank God and replaced with healthy looking heads. **we launched at 7:30am and summited at 2pm. **on the West Face of NEWS, we climbed in 3 pitches. I've never understood climbers on the West Face who pitch that route out to 5 or 6 pitches, even with a 70m rope! Why do 60' pitches, thereby creating annoying bottlenecks on the route?! Nevertheless, we had both routes to ourselves and couldn't have asked for a better day of smoke free climbing! The extra rope in the photo is some party's fixed line... West Face

Andy, post up his naked selfies!

Ryan Lurie?

In honor of the Wilderness Act's 50th birthday, I think I shall go build a cairn on Asgard Pass. What do you have planned to honor the occasion?

Nice one up there. That was Loren and me you met up there and chased up the route. You guys shot through the Fin pitches quickly with that 70m of yours! You made me work hard to stay ahead, no easy task for an ancient guy like me.

Nice one you guys. That granite looks really good!

I'm looking to get in a lap on SCW if anyone is available. The weather looks pretty 5 star! Iconoclast or Hyperspace would be fun... PM or email: touring29@gmail Thanks! John

Partner found! Thanks!

Hello! Looking to get out for a few routes Saturday. Nothing huge. Open to ideas/route linkups. PM or email: touring29@gmail Thanks! John

Gri gri backup with two ascenders works great. Like the previous post states, your system is already set up for lowering out while cleaning. Besides, the gri gri will serve two purposes on the wall, belaying and jugging, increasing your efficiency on the climb. Finally, if the rope you are jugging is running fairly plum with the anchor, there will eventually be enough rope weight below you so that the rope will indeed automatically feed through your gri gri as you ascend, saving you lots of time on the jug. And like DPS said, manually feeding the gri gri at the start is so much quicker and easier than tying and untying backup knots the whole way.

I see their point though. Who are the bigger assholes? A cocky but highly efficient twosome, or People climbing a 50 crowded route in a group of 3 at their absolute limit at 5.9? I get their frustration at the bottlenecked gendarme, where you can't pass and have to wait your turn.

Thanks for the reply! Good information. Since you're attaching the tibloc directly to the piece, you'd have to, like you said, make sure you're climbing directly above the placement. Which I suppose would be tricky on a wandering route like the north ridge.