telemarker

Yes, but we went back to Index instead. I can't believe I've neglected Index for so long.

...may be the best multipitch climb in WA 2 hours or less from your car door. Outer Space (with the RPM start) is a close second. Carry on....

Thank God you found my camstopperropegrigriwallet PM sent...

Anyone available to get a lap in on Snow Creek Wall on Saturday, 8/3? I'm also open to miscellaneous Leavenworth cragging if the weather doesn't pan out. PM or email: touring29@gmail.com John

Climb up and right to where it flattens out on a nice ledge, but don't go too far beyond there if you're hauling a pack. The "End" of pitch two is wherever you want it to be.

Jesus. "May have broken both arms and legs." Hope he's plucked out of there soon and safely.

Cool! Thanks for the details and for posting your TR. Having never been back there, it was hard to wrap my mind around this, but Darin's photo puts it in impressive perspective.

Dude, you're awesome!

How is the last pitch traverse of cruel shoes? Reasonable or 5.10d unprotected slab?

Nope. We climbed the pillar then determined our work there was done. We'll go back though!

Peasant's Route as per your recommendation. And, of course Exasperator Crack.

The traverse from the 2nd pitch of Mercy Me to the base of the Split Pillar is one of the more funky pitches I have ever done. Both for the leader and the follower. Anyone ever experience this gem? It's been while since I've been that gripped on second balancing my way through near blankness. Chris Martin did am outstanding lead on this one, though following it felt like a lead as well. And then the Split Pillar... wow. What can you say about that? Some eye candy:

Get a room you two!

Excellent read! It's amazing the ground one can cover unteathered. Thanks for the inside look at your thought processes regarding such an endeavor.

From my experience on the NB (not DNB) of Bear, I'd say both are quality 5-star alpine routes. But the car-to-car vs. Chilliwack River schwack.... Well considering your alpine climbing résumé, I'm compelled to climb Clean Break again! Thanks for the report!

I wonder how it compares to the DNB of Bear Mtn? I guess I should go climb the DNB to find out.

Nice report on Clean Break! My memory of it was that the first two pitches (especially the first) were stellar, then the rest of the route not so much. But if you're saying it's the best alpine route you've done, maybe my memory of it is wrong!

Excellent! I was sweating cheap burgundy just reading this. Well done.

And, it's a loooong way over there from the summit of Stuart! Definitely not trivial, but at least the snowfield below the col is low angle and schrund free.

To clarify further, you are referring to Sherpa/ Argonaut col.

I'm curious, what was your #1 worse Cascades approach?

I would love to scamper up Stuart's Full N. Ridge from Esmeralda Creek T.H. (Teanaway Side), car to car. That would be my preference. Feeling fit and comfortable with a ton of simul-climbing? Then send a PM or email: touring29@gmail.com John

Of course, it all makes sense if you think about it. SCOTUS just struck down DOMA, and being the staunch heterosexual that He is, I imagine God is pretty pissed off and letting us know about it.

I was standing on top of Castle Rock this evening when it began to jiggle, kinda like jello on a saucer. The tree and rock vibrated for about 10 seconds, and I heard a low hum through Tumwater Canyon. I just checked the Pacific Northwest Seismic Network and sure enough, they registered a 4.3 quake near Lake Wenatchee Wild and weird sensation to feel it moving under my feet.