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telemarker

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Everything posted by telemarker

  1. Any amount of slack in the sling with tibloc (it doesn't have to be above the piece) could conceivably put the load on the lead simul climber should the second fall...
  2. Believe it or not, but a serious question(s)... When using the Tibloc system, Would you decide to use one before a harder move, or just sort of randomly decided to use one? Did having it slung long create rope drag? Just thinking, if there is any amount of rope drag on a slung piece with tibloc, the tibloc could ride up above the pro, thus eliminating the purpose of the tibloc. Maybe I'm wrong...
  3. Why would you rap into the loosest, shittiest gully on Stuart (bypassing two of the best pitches on the route) then complain that people are knocking rocks down on you? I bet you could have done it in 3 hours without all the extra weight of those tiblocs. But then again, how would you be rad in the alpine without them?
  4. Is it named after this modern test piece? http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/993136/1
  5. When you reach the Ingalls Creek trail, hike farther than you think to get to the Long's Pass sign. If you reach Ingalls Lake, you've gone too far. Duh... The log crossing to access the Long's Pass trail passes right through the middle of a large camping area. I'm sure there will be plenty of tents by the LP sign.
  6. A) Allow for 6 hours and be pleasantly surprised if faster; B) There's reliable water at the base of the small snowfield below the false summit on your way down; C) North approach is about the same time *if* you're familiar with the mountaineer's Creek drainage, where the trail is intermittent. Then you have to figure out how to descend either the Sherpa Glacier with its gaping crevasse, or the West Ridge to NW Buttress, or carry over to Sherpa/Argonaut Col.
  7. Cool video, but Spokane is still kind of a shit hole. Prolonged winter inversion scenes edited out?
  8. Whatever it is, Explorer, you should have JasonG photograph it.
  9. I would think the 50% chance of showers Saturday and some chance on Sunday would be the bigger hazard at the pass this weekend.
  10. Yesterday evening from Snow Creek Wall. Seems worse today in Wenatchee.
  11. When you do finally publish your report, find room for the term "Smash and Grab" in order to achieve the desired level of drama for your discovery. You should also be super stoked.
  12. Chris gets the rope gun award? is that how far our climbing standards have dropped?! But I agree, you want Chris on your team. I'm just disappointed he didn't bring to Rock Wren!
  13. Crack Gloves should be acquired over a period of years of scar tissue on back of your hands. Start on Classic Crack your first year to get a good base, then work your way through other sharp classics like Deb's Crack, Royal Flush, etc... After ~10 years you'll have all the skin protection you'll ever need without the limp wrist.
  14. The best climb in the world. Thanks Chris! A few photos to add: Chris staying connected on El Cap Tower Traverse to Pitch 8 (Tom Evans pic) The View up to Chris on Texas Flake Chris rapping off the Boot Flake to me on Eagle Chris staying out on the Great Roof East Ledges descent. The raps are just below the web seen above Chris My own El Cap layback
  15. "The tribes already have expressed concern that the many rock climbers who visit the state park could speed the site’s degradation." I don't think the tribes should be too concerned by the 5 to 10's of climbers who visit the Pinnacles each year.
  16. This too may be a bit of an exaggeration: "They have...significance to rock climbers, who flock there to scale the spires."
  17. "Peshastin Pinnacles rock formations...well loved by just about everyone else." Now I wouldn't go that far...
  18. Aah yes. I remember fondly when Bumbershoot was a cute little uncrowded festival. and when there was no line waiting to get on the rickety old Orange roller coaster. When it took just 1 hour 45 minutes to get to Seattle from Chehalis with no traffic.
  19. I met Adam recently out cragging, only because his friend introduced him to me. He seemed like a nice enough guy, but I wouldn't know because he seemed largely uninterested in talking. I have seen him several times since with barely a "hello". It would be more reassuring if part of his job description was to be more of an ambassador by actively building rapport amongst climbers he sees at the crags.
  20. Even though personally I like to think I've had a great start to the climbing season, I just don't feel like I'm CRUSHING. you know? I'll do a hard pitch, lower down, and my buddies will say in a monotonous tone, "Nice job," or, "Well Done," or, "cool". Or sometimes they're not even that generous, and just say something banal like, "Should I clean the anchor?" When cragging I hear others crushing in abundance. All around me all the time. What am I doing wrong?! I'm starting to feel very alienated from the rest of our climbing community. So I'm asking for your help. How can I go about crushing? Any advice would be helpful. Thanks.
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