telemarker

If this cuts down on or eliminates GoPro footage of rock or ice climbing, I'm all for it.

My PM's aren't working so email only or text: 509-699-9810.

You're preferred sacrificial modality is by choking it?

Anyone interested in a cruiser day on SCW? A two-fer of maybe hyperspace with a warm down on something else. Whatever. PM or email: touring29@gmail Thanks! John

Well the accompanying soundtrack is certainly dramatic.

Trip: Washington Pass - Liberty Crack and West Face NEWS Date: 9/6/2014 Trip Report: It's early Fall which ushers in prime WA Pass season. Dean and I jumped on the perfect weather to climb Liberty Crack on Liberty Bell as well as the West Face route on North Early Winter Spire. This was Dean's first time climbing up there so I wanted to give him a good tour. Much has been written on these oft-climbed routes so I will just add eye candy and bullet point beta. **We pitched out the first 3 pitches then combined 4/5, 6/7, 8/9, 10 to the top. With a 70m rope, each pitch after the 3rd was 68 to 70m pitches. **the horror story fixed heads of pitch 3 have been removed thank God and replaced with healthy looking heads. **we launched at 7:30am and summited at 2pm. **on the West Face of NEWS, we climbed in 3 pitches. I've never understood climbers on the West Face who pitch that route out to 5 or 6 pitches, even with a 70m rope! Why do 60' pitches, thereby creating annoying bottlenecks on the route?! Nevertheless, we had both routes to ourselves and couldn't have asked for a better day of smoke free climbing! The extra rope in the photo is some party's fixed line... West Face

Andy, post up his naked selfies!

Ryan Lurie?

In honor of the Wilderness Act's 50th birthday, I think I shall go build a cairn on Asgard Pass. What do you have planned to honor the occasion?

Nice one up there. That was Loren and me you met up there and chased up the route. You guys shot through the Fin pitches quickly with that 70m of yours! You made me work hard to stay ahead, no easy task for an ancient guy like me.

Nice one you guys. That granite looks really good!

I'm looking to get in a lap on SCW if anyone is available. The weather looks pretty 5 star! Iconoclast or Hyperspace would be fun... PM or email: touring29@gmail Thanks! John

Partner found! Thanks!

Hello! Looking to get out for a few routes Saturday. Nothing huge. Open to ideas/route linkups. PM or email: touring29@gmail Thanks! John

Gri gri backup with two ascenders works great. Like the previous post states, your system is already set up for lowering out while cleaning. Besides, the gri gri will serve two purposes on the wall, belaying and jugging, increasing your efficiency on the climb. Finally, if the rope you are jugging is running fairly plum with the anchor, there will eventually be enough rope weight below you so that the rope will indeed automatically feed through your gri gri as you ascend, saving you lots of time on the jug. And like DPS said, manually feeding the gri gri at the start is so much quicker and easier than tying and untying backup knots the whole way.

I see their point though. Who are the bigger assholes? A cocky but highly efficient twosome, or People climbing a 50 crowded route in a group of 3 at their absolute limit at 5.9? I get their frustration at the bottlenecked gendarme, where you can't pass and have to wait your turn.

Thanks for the reply! Good information. Since you're attaching the tibloc directly to the piece, you'd have to, like you said, make sure you're climbing directly above the placement. Which I suppose would be tricky on a wandering route like the north ridge.

Any amount of slack in the sling with tibloc (it doesn't have to be above the piece) could conceivably put the load on the lead simul climber should the second fall...

Believe it or not, but a serious question(s)... When using the Tibloc system, Would you decide to use one before a harder move, or just sort of randomly decided to use one? Did having it slung long create rope drag? Just thinking, if there is any amount of rope drag on a slung piece with tibloc, the tibloc could ride up above the pro, thus eliminating the purpose of the tibloc. Maybe I'm wrong...

Why would you rap into the loosest, shittiest gully on Stuart (bypassing two of the best pitches on the route) then complain that people are knocking rocks down on you? I bet you could have done it in 3 hours without all the extra weight of those tiblocs. But then again, how would you be rad in the alpine without them?

Is it named after this modern test piece? http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/993136/1

When you reach the Ingalls Creek trail, hike farther than you think to get to the Long's Pass sign. If you reach Ingalls Lake, you've gone too far. Duh... The log crossing to access the Long's Pass trail passes right through the middle of a large camping area. I'm sure there will be plenty of tents by the LP sign.

A) Allow for 6 hours and be pleasantly surprised if faster; B) There's reliable water at the base of the small snowfield below the false summit on your way down; C) North approach is about the same time *if* you're familiar with the mountaineer's Creek drainage, where the trail is intermittent. Then you have to figure out how to descend either the Sherpa Glacier with its gaping crevasse, or the West Ridge to NW Buttress, or carry over to Sherpa/Argonaut Col.

Cool video, but Spokane is still kind of a shit hole. Prolonged winter inversion scenes edited out?

Whatever it is, Explorer, you should have JasonG photograph it.