glacier_dup1

I agree w/ OW and Dru here. Assess: Can the environment handle the abuse of more users making trails, cleaning rock, squashing brush, and trundling ankle-breakers around a boulder? I remember an article in one of the mags about abouldering area back east where the local climbing ranger, as part of hie M.S., actually performed a biological assessment of the plants and fungus growing on the tops of the boulders, and found it to consist of a rare assemblage of species. Because of this, in order to maintain access to the area, a policy was passed that no cleaning of boulder tops was to occur, so all problems would end w/out top-outs. OK, so this is an extreme example, but may be applivcable to the alpine/wet environments out here - In our pursuite of hte Last Great Problem, are we harming someting less tangible? Also, I've always believed that not every chunk of rock needs a problem, or route, or whatever. On the other hand, w/ the teeming crowds, it is often found that a few more minutes of approach or remoteness drop the hoards to nil. I've spent days climbing in relative solitude w/ a partner because we walked that extra 15 minutes or made that exposed scramble - So there will always be that urge to go around the next bend. As DM pointed out, it is only when the hoards catch up that it can become a significant problem/impact.

Yeah, REI's return policy has gotten a lot stiffer over the last few years - I remember a time when I could walk into the store with a pair of old snow tires and a leaking car battery, claim that I got them in the SLC store during a special sale, and walk out with a set of mountain bike tires and a headlamp in exchange. Now they actually expect you to return something they actually sell. I can't believe it. The bastards.

Solo - done about 1971 - some great non-PC direct aid on pins. The first film I ever saw on climbing - got me inspired to try it once I escaped the flatlands. I second the vote for 'The Mountain', as well.

With my $4.62, I think I'll invest in three Clif Bars, or maybe a hot pink accessory 'biner.

Damn, I'm slow.

I've got the arc'teryx Nozone - I compared it against the Khamsin and thought the suspension was better, and the pack rode a bit lower so I don't bop the back of my head as much when gawking routes. As far as bells and whistles, it has a pair of loops and a shovel pocket on the back (where I normally shove my camelbak). Got mine as a used demo at Second Bounce.

I think BD did some test a while ago with dropped 'biners and did not find any significant strength loss or microfractures - Regardless, I tend to follow the 'gut' rule for gear retirement - do I trust it? So plenty of dropped or found biners are delegated for bail usage, and webbing and slings get replaced every few to several years (not too scientific).

Keep it fun. The more you get hung up on numbers, spraying, your identity as a climber, etc. etc., the more your attitude will get worn out, and you will become another bitter ex-climber bowler. Physically - protect your joints through hydration, stretching, good diet, and proper rest and rehab (if injured).

I like 'Testicular Fortitude' at Peshastin - creeping up polished pebbles past a tri-cam in an arching sandstone flake - Last time I did it a few years back, my partner awoke a very distraught bat in the flake as he was seconding it - fortunately the bat had had the good manners to stay asleep as I was leading past.

Useful knots - mule hitch on a Munter or belay plate to free up hands for self rescue or while partner is hanging more than his/her share. Autoblock for ascending or backing up a rappel - easier to free than a prussik, and if you let go of the hitch, it locks to the ascending rope easily. Favorite scary knot - sheepshank - originally used in sailing to shorten a line - basically a clove hitch around a double bight of rope. In a retreat emergency - double-rope-length rappel on a single rope - tie one end of the rope to the anchor, tie a sheepshank directly below, cut the bights of the rope (it is held intact by the hitch), rappel gently, shake the rope to loosen the hitch and drop the rope. No, I have never had to use it, nor have heard first-hand of anyone using it. Just something to give me shivers. Have fun.

Not particularly of local interest, but my folks have recovered the occasional weather balloon on their farm in Nebraska, but the best 'small-world' test occurred when they found a balloon released by a reservation school class in northern Arizona, which just happened to be the home town of one of my best friends. So even a small balloon, if it has a tough enough skin to get some elevation and get caught in high-altitude winds, can get some serious mileage.

A friend forwarded this to me today, and y'all may be interested. Proceeds go to benfit the NW Avalanche Center, as well... ?the MountainFilm in Telluride on Tour is coming to Seattle for the first time on Jan .19th. I?ve never seen this show but thought I?d check it out and invite you to check it out too. Here?s a blurb I found on the web about it? ?MOUNTAINFILM has been drawing diverse and faithful audiences to Telluride for 22 years to take part in a four-day, four-theater festival about which actor Andre Gregory says, ?I can?t think of another event which so opened my eyes, shocked me and filled me with wonder. There are other film festivals which are aesthetically interesting, but none others that I know of (that are) so politically, socially, culturally and environmentally important.? The Telluride festival is dedicated to sustaining an appreciation for the uniqueness of the mountain environment, linkages between alpine cultures and communities, and to the arts, cultures and adventures that set these regions apart. Whether it is a story of gripping adventure, a struggle for environmental justice or an intimate glimpse into another world, MOUNTAINFILM seamlessly weaves travel, unique personalities and important social messages into a thrilling evening of film. The festival expresses its commitment to social change by introducing educational and environmental messages within an inspirational context. Each element of MOUNTAINFILM conveys knowledge about such topics as biodiversity in the depths of the Amazon rainforest, an octogenarian?s courage on the slopes of a high peak in Antarctica, or the community struggles at a garden in Manhattan.? BETA: Saturday, January 19, 2002 5:00PM$10.00TOWN HALL1119 8TH AVE - SEATTLE Tickets can be purchased at the link below or by phone (206-628-0888): (note: yes it?s true ticketmaster doesn?t know how to spell Telluride) https://ticketing.ticketmaster.com/cgi/purchasePage.asp?event_id=F003387EEF70A5E&event_code=ETH0119A&actname=MOUNTAINFILM_IN_TULLURIDE_ON_TOUR&majorcatid=10005&minorcatid=59 There are two shows one @ 5 and one @ 8.

Good suggestions all around. No doubt better than my learning method of taking a real fall on shoddy-placed gear at Index. I agree strongly with the suggestions to 'ground-school' by placing gear and building anchors at ground level, as well as following and cleaning as much as possible. Cleaning won't help the lead head, but it will give you ideas on a variety of gear placement positions, as well as placing stances - especially if you are 5'2" and your partner is 6'4". With respect to leading, I've had friends do 'fake' leads - that is, tied into a lead rope w/ a slack top-rope backup. Place gear. Move until feet are even with gear and take a jumper. If the gear is good, then the lead belay rope catches you. Otherwise, the TR belayer catches you and you learn a lesson with little more than a bruised ego and rushing heartrate. This will help your confidence and competence in your gear-placing abilities. Oh, and remember to have fun.

A year ago, the last most-recent relationship was dying a noisy death and I was looking at an enforced break from climbing as I finally took the time to have an ACL reconstructed. Took the spring off to heal, ramped up to climbing through the summer including a few long routes and hard redpoints. Decided I needed another obsession in my life, so picked up a motorcycle. Took a month off to climb in CA and NV to confirm that the knee and head were fit. Looking forward to an awesome 2002 with my miscellaneous friends.

I second the vote for the Yellow TCU. There seems to be a placement for it on nearly every gear route. Marmot windshirt - going on 8 years. Use it as a 1st/2nd layer on alpine, packable insulation on long routes, light shell for running or cool days, mid-layer under leather jacket for winter motorcycling. Just bought a Petzl Reverso - It's supplanted my Wild Country Variable Controller as belay/rappel device of choice, especially for multi-pitch. My $15 down jacket I got from Cabela's returns department. Most bang for the buck (or duck). My ugly grey camoflage boonie hat. Just because.

Also the whole Tibetan mind-clouding thing. And I think it was 'secrets that lurk in the hearts of men' Women, he has no clue about.

Lowe/Camp Tuber - inadvertant self-locking belay/rappel device. Petzl ball-lock biners - annoying lock and collar. I actually use it as my belay biner 'cause it's such a pain to open and close, I know that it's locked. Wired hexes - may make nice aid pieces or if I'm lucky, I'll find some route where I want to leave them fixed and abandoned I don't own a thermarest - from bushwacking experience in the desert, I can tear quarter-size holes in my foam pad, and it will still keep me off the ground.

'Lunatic Fringe' - Red Rider 'Ah Via Musicom' - Eric Johnson 'If I only had a Brain' - the scarecrow from Wizard of Oz

Pulled a phone-book size rock off Elvis' Pharmacist (Vantage), knocked my belayer into a coma and took a 35 footer into the talus. I walked away with a cut on my head, and he got the complimentary helicopter ride to Yakima. After a summer of rehab, he went back to designing wings at Boeing.

Found this revised windchill chart from the National Weather Service - Thought it might be useful for the next nude winter solo of Rainier. http://205.156.54.206/om/windchill/

Nothing sporty - just took the Seca out to straighten out curves between Snohomish and Duvall one last weekend before winter sets in and it get too alpine to hit the twisties.

'Descend the obvious gully'

Just got back from 4 weeks on the road- Started with Goat's Beard at Mazama, then south to Bishop, Red Rocks, Mt. Charleston, and Joe's Valley. A good time of the year to chase sun before the Great Northwet sets in on us.

Any beta on the border crossing these days - the northbound traffic cams look pretty bad - http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/Regions/Northwest/Traffic/BorderCams/ How's the southbound delay? Or should I just save the fine Canadian granite for later?

Freeway - I second that. And seconded that.