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glacier_dup1

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Everything posted by glacier_dup1

  1. 'Let me tell you who you really do it for... You do it for the gadgets, Taylor. You do it for the Gadgets, so all the little gadgets can live and prosper. It's all about the gizmo, pal...' from the play 'K2', by Patrick Meyers
  2. Not a woman, but I play one on tv. Actually a former girlfriend of mine has one, and found it generally comfortable. The Isis seems to be proportioned well for weight distribution. The only (minor) drawback is that the leg loops are not adjustable, which may be an issue if you use it an alpine or early season climbs where you are putting on and removing clothing. Another option that you may want to look at is the Metolius 3D Contour series. While not marketed as a specifically woman's harness, the harness is built with adjustable leg loops, as well as an adjustable rise to account for hip length.
  3. Speaking of which, where can one get cam trigger wires rebuilt? I have several Trango and Metolius cams that could use an overhaul. Thanks.
  4. I've taken a standard 'backpacker' type kit and upgunned it with additional 2x3 and 4x4 pads, steri-strips (or butterfly bandages), a wound management kit (basically a syringe and saline tablets for washing out wounds or eyes), plus some extra latex/nitrile gloves, and a cpr mouth shield. Add a tube of triple antibiotic- Micatracin (sp?) and some betadine - especially useful for cleaning out road rash/rock burn. Toss the micro-scissors they put in those kits and add a decent pair of bandage or EMT scissors - they are only $5-10 and go through clothes, tape, webbing, etc. like butter. Of course, as one of the other posters noted - proper training - A 3-day wilderness oriented first aid or the week-long W.O. first responder - is probably the most critical part of your kit.
  5. Two more - water related. Running the Amazon by Joe Kane - the first descent of the complete Amazon, and a good study of a well conceived, but poorly executed expedition due to personaility conflicts. I've also had a chance to meet Kane and hear him speak on the trip. The Search for the Pink-Headed Duck by Rory Nugent. Guy rafts/sails/canoes the entire length of the Bamaputra River in search of a rare duck that hasn't been seen for a century. An entertaining read and interesting discoveries and views of India.
  6. I've always just cut a notch in the middle of my rope. It doesn't wash out that way.
  7. I'd have to nominate 'The Long Walk' by Slavomir Rawicz - WWII POWs escape from a Russian Gulag and walk south across Siberia, the Gobi, and Tibet into India.
  8. My vote is for a Jap club cab pickup, 2wd. I've had both the Nissan and the Mazda. The Nissan has slighly better clearance and engine, but the Mazda is quieter and has more room in the club cab. Toss a cap on the back and throw in some sand bags and chains for the winter. I took the Nissan through axle-deep mud repeatedly and took great joy in parking it, with mud spattered to the roof, next to shiny, never-touched-anything-softer-than-asphalt 4wds.
  9. All right, here's one. Last summer I was on Decatur Island, in the San Juans, at some friends' cabin. It was a no-agenda weekend, and I was sport-kite flying in a grass meadow. I took a pause (most likely to untangle strings or reassemble the kite), and paused for a moment to hear tiny clicking and popping sounds surrounding me. I thought it may be grasshoppers, but didn't see any. It took me a moment to realize that the sound was the hulls of the grass pooping open to spread their seeds. I took a few minutes to listen, and found the moment to be very sublime - sometimes Nature occurs in the interstices where we don't think to look (or listen). So when you make your way out here, don't forget to pause occasionally in silence and listen for the small things.
  10. 'I sleep like a baby on a portaledge - I wake up every two hours and cry.' -Todd Skinner
  11. Since my partner already stole all my great lines (there's extra lead slack in it for you, you weasel) - here are a few more gems of wisdom to torque off your partners. 'Make it look easy.' 'Use the big holds.' 'Cut your feet loose and relax.' (beta to me a few years ago in Hueco) And attributed to Scott Franklin - "It's not really climbing if the backs of your hands touch the rock."
  12. 'nuf said. http://www.theonion.com/onion3722/surgeon_general.html
  13. I play geologist at a large engineering/environmental firm simultaneously making the world a better and worse place for puppies and children.
  14. I've had very spotty service at Dave Page, although I understand that in the last couple of years his quality and consistency with climbing shoes has improved. I know that he does good work with hiking boots and mountaineering boots, unfortunately, he turned at least one pair of my climbing shoes and one pair of a friend's into hiking boots. Locally, Ramuta's is my best bet. They've been very consistent on my orders, and even rejuvenated a pair of Moccasyms, something I didn't believe could occur. If you have the time, send the shoes south to the Rubber Room, formerly the cobblers of Wilson's Eastside Sports in Bishop, CA. http://www.rubberroomresoles.com/
  15. Go to http://weather.ec.gc.ca/text/british_columbia_e.shtml and click on 'Coastal' for a Howe Sound (Squamish) forecast
  16. Erik, I have done a double-rope rap on a munter, although it was a number of years ago, so I don't recall if I used a single biner or a pair. The rap was a full rope-length and partially free-hanging. I don't remember if it built up much heat, but the ropes did get quite a bit of twisting and fuzzed up pretty well. I wouldn't recommend it except in an emergency.
  17. I tried on both the Khamsin and Nozone a couple of years ago and chose the Nozone of the two. The primary comfort difference that made me choose the Nozone was that the Khamsin's stays hit me in the back of the head when I looked up (as in gawking at routes). With a helmet on, it may be more awkward. I've been very pleased with the Nozone. The ripstop has worn well, only a couple of small holes. It has survived many approaches and day use, as well as bus and plane travel in Asia and Panama. I have not used it for alpine climbs, but it easily hauls a full trad rack, food and weather gear.
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