Jarred_Jackman

Call the Leavenworth Ranger Station first, the road is still closed I think, due to snow and treefall.

I'm going to be moving to the Pendleton area this August to teach at a little school in Echo OR. I'll only be working 4 days a week and want to climb as much as I can. Are there any good climbs in the Blue Mountains, cragging, alpine stuff around Anthony Lakes, multi-pitch? Also, who out there in OR would be willing to take on a new partner, I'll be looking for someone come August. take care

Hey Skisports if you head up there I'd be really interested in a report about the conditions. I want to climb that route and would end up descending the W.Salmon, I think it might be best to summit really early and got down the glacier in the early morning hours to avoid any warming conditions from the days sun. Post your trip report if you would!

Charlie were you climbing with a guy named Aaron on sunday? I think we ran into you two on the wall then at Gustav's.

Without skis you don't have a chance on Baker unless you do the ridge traverse from the Herman Saddle by the ski resort. Shuksan is definitely your best bet if the roads aren't open, and the approach to the North Face is a lot more interesting and visually stimulating.

Hey, I'm always up for climbing routes I haven't done on Rainier. June is a bit far away still but I'd be up for it as long as I'm not working on the days you want to climb or something like that. Anyhow, I'm familiar with all the stuff you wrote in your message. My email is jarredjackman@hotmail.com so feel free to email me if you have questions, or as the dates your climbing gets closer. Just for curiosity sake, why the Kautz? take care

Thanks to all...I understand about the materials and frustrations adding up, that was the case when I made a SKY CHAIR, a type of one person hammock actually made in Boulder. Anyhow, thanks for the personal accounts! I think I might stick to trying to get stuff on sale then modifying it as needed, seems to be working well so far. take care Also, if any are interested, the Speedy Stitcher sewing awl is about the coolest thing on the market for altering large packs and heavy material.

Thanks to all...I understand about the materials and frustrations adding up, that was the case when I made a SKY CHAIR, a type of one person hammock actually made in Boulder. Anyhow, thanks for the personal accounts!

Has anyone made their own pack? I'm thinking abbout sewing a little pack similar to the Lowe Summit Attack Pack, super light little pack. But if that works well I'll be more curious about larger packs along the lines of the Black Diamond Ice Pack. The body isn't a problem but have any of the solved the problems of the padded harness areas, shoulders, belt, etc? Also, has anyone done seam-taping at home? The sewing is the easy part but getting the waterproofing back on, I'm not too sure about. take care

Hey guys, is access to the top of Z-crack easy for setting up top rope? Can I hike up there or would I climb Meatgrinder then walk a ledge, I have a picture but haven't been up there yet. Thanks

rayborbon, is there still snow on the descent from snow creek. thanks forthe poignant beta.

Basically it's like any other ticket. I received a ticket at Vantage and 8 months later received a bill. The tickets are issued from the F&W and they are dumbfucks for the most part, they take forever to do their supposed investigations which I think just means learning enough about reading and writing to effectively write a ticket, then they send the ticket to the local district court and the ticket makes its next stop in your mailbox. If the fee isn't paid it will be sent to a collection agent and the next time you need a CC or something like that, anything that demands a credit check, this unpaid ticket will show up. They're a pain but the way I see it there are a ton of people in the backcountry these days and why not pay. Things need to be kept up, of course some of the money gets misused, it's the government we're talking about, they can't wipe their ass without wasting paper, but the trails we all use and the trailheads we all park at, the roads we drive on and the killing of the wildlife from overuse all need money to continue. The fees go towards that to some degree, if you use all that stuff why not pay it? You pay to go to a movie, doing outdoor rec is still alot cheaper. By the way, has anyone been to the Canyonlands lately. I thought it was managed so much better than the fee parks in WA, i.e. Enchantments. I saw far fewer people, less damage, and far fewer people! [ 04-18-2002, 06:59 PM: Message edited by: Jarred Jackman ]

I've been looking for a partner for Index for Saturday. I can climb both friday at 3:30 or so and Saturday all day. I have two dogs that will have to come, well behaved, but I don't know if you're down with that. Let me know soon if you can. take care I'm climbing probably 5.9+/5.10a as far as Index goes and will follow 5.11a or so.

SOBO, I'm not railing on you, I don't even know you. I just think it's funny how so many seem to have your negative attitude towards Vantage and it's "rock quality" but it really seems that it's the people that are the problem, I and countless others have climbed there a lot and never had rockfall injuries. By the same token, a friend of mine fell in the Tetons due to anchor failure, the rock gave way and dropped the slings, yet nobody is saying, holy shit, better not climb that Wyoming granit, it's damn brittle and liable to get you killed. It's all a matter of viewpoint I know, but it's just curious that the most used crag in the state seems to also attract the most negative comments. The pathetic joke about your name was simply stating that all the little names everyone seems to give themselves are stupid, why not just sign in with your birth name, I guess I just don't undetstand the need for a pen-name.

How are you getting in to Mt Baker this time of year, are you sledding into the base then climbing? I was up that road before the last snow storm hit and it was pretty melted out but I would figure it's totally snowed in now. Are you gaining access to the mountain without a bunch of road walking? Here here, sledders, for the most part, completely disrespect the laws on that mountain. Who is the best person to voice complaints to, the rangers?

You guys kill me, you talk about Vantage as though it were your mom or something. Why does everyone care about it so much? If it's junk, then who cares, if it's great, then, well, climb there, but I don't understand all the controversy over a medium to small size climbing venue. Sobo, sobe, whatever, was it actually Vantage and its anthropomorphic abilities that almost killed you, or a little operator error that almost mamed you for life? I don't think a climbing area has actually ever killed anyone. I was actually at Vantage today and the weather was great! I actually pulled a rock off of a climb on Lower River, WHEW, I guess Vantage almost killed me. Climb safely.

Midwestern, Rainier is a great trip, although you'll hit big crowds that time of year. If you're looking for a londer alping route you should do the West Ridge of Mt Stuart, it's a great route on great rock and the camping in the area is beautiful, Ingalls Lake etc. There are countless others but this one is a larger mountain for washington and it is a fairly serious undertaking as far as time committment on the route and routefinding goes, for a newcomer that is. Have fun. Consider Mt. Baker too, further north, a truly beautiful volcano without Rainiers crowds! If you're sticking with Rainier though and you don't want crowds hit the west side of the park, you said you had a week, plenty of time.

Gear stickers? A car at a trailhead period means you're going to be gone for awhile, it only take minutes to break into a car. I say, if it's at night, a dog is the best car alarm anyone can get. They get a good nights sleep on the front seat and if anyone is stupid enough to go in, they certainly won't get out with anything but bruises and bites.

Paul, what day were you there?Has anyone seen the influx of big wall people practicing at Vantage? I saw three portaledges on the ZigZag wall, someone hauling a PIG into the Sunshine area, and some guy saturday evening was hammering pitons into the ZigZag wall. Funny though, if you're not at the Sunshine wall you don't see the crowds.

Don't know how cold you like it, but Vantage was 26 degrees cold yesterday.

The flow isn't as good now with the warmer conditions. Many dinner size plates shearing off due to the fractured nature of the ice, takes screws pretty well still, but definitely not in desireable shape.

In regards to Pilchuck, there's no way that road could be snowed in. I drove a two wheel drive pick-up in during january when there was a lot more snow than we have now. The road should have melted since and the new snow hasn't accumulated that much, the avy danger could be minimal depeding on where you go on the mountain, if you're interested in the summit you shouldn't have problems, skiing the gullies or faces you might have avy trouble. If you've been there before you already know this. [ 03-08-2002: Message edited by: Jarred Jackman ]

Are these videos of the bootleg type or can they be rented? I'm in Mt Vernon and curious if you know of anywhere over here to get ahold of them. thanks

I realize the info from today won't work for the 22nd, I am just getting the question out there in case someone goes up soon, maybe they'd let me know how it was. I already have the avi site marked, thanks anyhow.

What are you talking about when you mentioned Pan Dome Falls? Are you talking about the the Shuksan area, I was at the Baker Ski area and saw ice that looked "in", short though, I'm not sure if this is what you're thinking of. later