Jarred_Jackman

I've done a lot of routes there and I think I would recommend Quest For Fire as one of the finest, plus it's by Tribal Boundaries which is also great! (they're both in the Inner City) Have fun, the City is amazing!!!

Tim, where are the pics, I know we got some good ones. For anyone thinking about the North Ridge, definitely do the complete. Just get it all in one shot then you won't have to go back four times to do all the things you left out. The complete kicks ass!!! The lower off-widths are way more physical than the gendarme (which is just pure fun!)

I was up there about two weeks ago looking at the Coleman Headwall and the North Ridge looked completely doable. I saw it only from the top of Hog's Back but the features on the cliff looked good, that approach looked crevassed but not terrible, getting on the ridge looked like the hardest part bc it was fairly melted out and lots of loose rock showing. Many avalanches had come off of the climber's left side of the headwall, so I suppose the ice cliff could be dropping chunks if the weather is warm. Go for it!

Well here is the exciting TR for those interested. My partner had to bail (actually had a good reason though) and I didn't do it. Damn.

Nope, I'll be leaving the Ingalls Trlhead around 1-2am on the 15th. Bperu, thanks, you're info is the best I've been able to get so far. Mostly I've just heard, "well, I have a friend who knows a guy who's done it, but I don't really know much about it all." I'll post something when I get back.

Hey Bobby, I checked out the photos. Thanks for the tip. I am planning on going really light. I've done Stuart's West ridge so I'm planning on not bringing a climbing rope but rather a rap line of 6 mm that could be doubled and climbed on if need be (obviously not recommended). Could you let me know if you went searching out the more difficult climbing or if you had to do it. Do you have any more info about specific difficulties encountered? I'm not trying to have you do the trip for me, I just don't want to take a bunch of unnecessary gear. take care Jarred

I'm heading in for this ridge traverse soon and wondering if anybody that's done it would like to share info regarding difficulty of route and also good bivy sites on the ridge. I'm planning on summitting Stuart around 9:30 am then cruising as far as possible that day and sleeping wherever I find a good spot for two people. Hoping for two days in and out, going in Teanaway, up Stuart's West Ridge, and out snow creek trail to Leavenworth (never done this trail and the other trail is being worked on). Thanks

How cold would you bivy folks say it's getting up there? I'm looking at doing the Stuart Traverse and am trying to collect some info about the current conditions. I know there's snow on the top of cascadian, did you see any snow on the Sherpa ridgeline or anywhere else as the ridge heads towards the area of Dragontail?

anybody want to kayak (river) around the skagit county area? PM me if interested. Jarred

Anybody out there need a partner for kayaking (river) anywhere around the Skagit County area? I'm in the area for a little while and would like to get some paddling in. PM me if you're interested. Jarred

Chuck, thanks for the ride, I didn't know you had such big plans for the day. Way to go on the double routes. Too bad we gave you an excuse to bail on your full plan!

I'm planning on it in august and as far as I can tell the hardest technical climbing comes on stuart. I'm giong in via the west ridge. There is that 5.7 exposed move on the west ridge of prusik, but prusik isn't even really in the same ridge ling. I think it goes on and continues after argonaut over to Mclellan Ridge. I'm thinking it'll take two starting at the ingalls trail and finishing at the snow creek parking lot.

I have to say that I think Nunatak seems like a stand up company making high quality and innovative down gear for those in a niche market. I think the original poster should ask him/herself whether he/she would like someone to post each and every screw up of his/her's on the internet so that people know to be careful when being around him/her. Man, you really have to take into account the fact that small businesses can really be affected by this type of publicity. This isn't Return Equip Inc, this is a guy in the Methow trying to make a living and one thing didn't go exactly as planned. Be a little forgiving of the guy for crying out loud. I talked to him about some gear and he invited me to his place to check out the products and how his gear is made.

I didn't post this to start some sort of drawn out story. I posted it to inform people that this very real ordeal happened at the crag many people have grown to visit quite often and think of as a normal place for fun climbing. If you're a fool and you honestly don't think that weird shit happens in small places, or large places for that matter ... So much for weird shit not happening in small towns, Canada or America. And for those wondering why I wasn't responding it's bc I'm not on this site every day, don't have a computer at home. If you want to contact the people that were involved I would contact Jeremy Dahl who lives in Eohrata and climbs a lot at the Coulee, or Jay Barclay who lives in Kennewick. take care

I was just at the city and climbed something called Quest For Fire. Anyone climbed this, what do you think it goes at? I think the ratings there are really screwy. Just curious if my grunting was deserved or if I am more out of shape than I think.

This is a writing that I received via my friends sister in law. They went to Squamish to climb and apparently found alot more than they bargained for. Watch out in thie area as the cops do not seem to be simpathetic. This totally sucks and makes you want to kick the shit out of people who fuck with you stuff and yourself!!! "My brother-in-law, Jeremy Dahl, of Ephrata, WA, is traveling in Canada this week on vacation with his girlfriend and another good friend. They are on vacation to climb, camp, mountain bike, etc. While camping in a local park, they were attacked by a group of 20 - 30 young Canadians, shouting anti-American slurs. While sleeping in their tent, they awoke to find rocks being thrown. Upon exiting the tent, they found themselves among 10? or so individuals calling them !&*#$! Americans, $#!*& Yankees, etc. and were told to go back to America where they belong. As the tension heightened, Jeremy called 911. The group left and then returned with around 20 more people. Jeremy threw the phone to his girlfriend, Shannon Scott (a Quincy, WA teacher and a native of Spokane, WA) and told her to run into the woods and call 911 again. Meanwhile 5 guys jumped his friend, Jay Barkley, (Currently a EMT/Firefighter for Tri-Cities), while another came after Jeremy with a knife. During the struggle, the rest of the group smashed the windows, headlights, mirrors, etc. on Jay's car parked at the camp site. They then slashed the tires on the vehicle and damaged the tires on the mountain bikes on the top of the vehicle. They threw burning logs on the tent, which burned to the ground with their belongings inside. Thankfully, the three escaped physically unscathed, with exception to Jay who has pains in his jaw and a headache. The group scattered upon the arrival of the Canadian police. The police told Jeremy there was not a lot they could do as they attackers had left. Jeremy told them where he thought the attackers were hiding in the woods, then proceeded to drag three of them out to the police. The police cited two of the individuals for alcohol violations, but nothing else. It was "chalked up" to be a runover celebration of "Canada Day." Jeremy then pointed out another individual involved in the attack who was walking nearby, but the police told him there was not a lot they could do. No one was taken into custody for the acts of violence against these three Americans, the vandalism to the car, nor the burning of their tent. The three of them were put up in a motel in Squamish, Canada. They had to move to another motel today as the other was full. They are working on repairing Jay's car. Because of the lack of concern for their safety, they contacted the American Consulate and met with him and the Canadian Consulate. The Canadian Consulate was not interested in their dilemma. They have decided to remain for the rest of their vacation and are on their way to Whistler. He is not aware that I have contacted you regarding this matter. I thought maybe any publicity about the incident might help with prosecuting these individuals."

Layton, are you sure those aren't pics of the liberty ice cliff route, damn that stuff looks ominous.

I think you might have to pay me to do the Beckey route again. I did it a few years back and it really sucked. There is a lot of foliage, sandy pebbly ledges, only two good pitches in all, one fingers and one fists (they're quite fun). For the hike in, I thought the route was the worst I had done ever. Sure it's granite, sure there's two good pitches, but I would honestly rather stay home than do that whole deal again. I'd do the other south crack or the west ridge though.

Just finished Adams Glacier route. The route is quite easy right now, although I don't think it would ever be very hard unless there were serious ice climbing in late season. The North Ridge sucks, why is it even a climbing route? If you go soon don't bring a second tool, just a ski pole, don't bring pickets, don't bring ropes, don't bring a tent if the forecast is good as the bugs were a non-issue. If can definitely be done car to car as we did it with sleeping in around 23 hours. Have Fun, it's a beautiful route with all the seracs!

With the heat we had the only thing we missed was 6 hours of slogging up 40-45 degree slopes in 80 degree heat. The night time is the right time! Thanks for the pics Tim!

Does anybody have info regarding the roads into the North side of Adams? I'm heading into the Adams Glacier area tomorrow and would like to know if the road that goes past Steamboat Rock is open yet. It's the quickest way from the Hood River area to that side of the mountain I think. Thanks! take care

Went up Lib Ridge with Tim Holscher (crackman) and two others yesterday, what a nice route. It is quite easy right now, no ice to speak of, we went right for the schrund and I feel we should have went left for the ice, but we didn't know it was there. Thumb Rock is tight but we all fit with a bunch of folks from Denver. I wouldn't bring any screws and just one picket per person. Lots of fun, get out there though, the rangers say it'll only last another 10-12 days. With this heat the approach will be too broken to cross.

Why would having a thick skull be an issue, it doesn't really reflect on a persons ability to make decisions of decipher information. Aren't you Ray Borbon, I almost went climbing with you one time, are you always this receptive? Of course I didn't mention what route I wanted to go up, or what direction, or what approach, that's the info I'm fishing for. What part of "I haven't been to Germany before" is hard for you to understand? I haven't been to Germany before, therefore don't know much about the mountains except that they're composed of earthen matter and covered with snow in the winter. Thanks for your amazingly useless information though. More often than not this sight seems to parallel the usefulness of REI. One can usually find what one is looking for if one is willing to wallow through three tons of shit and put up with assholes in the searching process. take care Jarred

JoshK, what route did you ascend? I'm thinking about doing the Coleman Headwall over the 9th and 10th of June, just wondering if it's fairly consolidated or if it's still wallow-city. thanks Jarred

How can somebody 300 miles away give me route beta? Easy, for somebody who's done the route before. I could give beta on the a route I've done whether it's 2 minutes away, or a thousand miles. Routes don't seem to change so much that beta from the year before eouldn't be at leave a little bit useful.