jhamaker

Cover for your eyes when sleeping in bright light. Booties Sled w/ poles and an integral zippered cover. A goat to sacrifice to the weather gods. A partner you can spend a month w/ in practicaly the same bed. One you get along w/ even when you *know* you're gonna die. Brains. Books

Baker was skiable Sun a.m. 3/9. Just point the skis down hill in the fresh snow and hold, and hold, and hold. Grab other's tracks in the flats and off you go to the next steep!

I vote Tacoma. Wazzat place accross from the Mountaineers clubhouse in Ruston?

Brian and I are headed down in April for a wk of climbing near Las Vegas. If intersted in joining us rsvp to jhamaker@operamail.com let me know your interests and availability.

Keep it simple. When you get "Have you climbed Mt. Rainier?" Respond w/ - "Many times, by many was; and several (hundred) other mtns in WA.

I personaly like two methods. When guiding orotherwise on low angle, I use one 60m rope w/ climber 2 tied in at about 50m, and climber 3 tied in at 60m. For higher angle stuff use a single and a twin. Leader leads on the single, 2nd trails the twin, 3rd uses (ascenders) to ascend. Traverses get more intersting. W/ 3, it is realy handy to have everyone w/ their own daisy chain.

Good show & worth the trip N.

>There's too much "lore" going around . . .< Yes, it is called "experience. >. . .w/o enough testing to back it up.< Yes, if you want data and testing, get w/ the spelunkers. For instance, they tested falling on prussics (sorry, no ref.) - and found that 10 out of 10 failures were because people grabbed onto the prussics knots durring a fall. Opposed knots - do help reduce spinning in a free hanging situation. I think the main point though is to *pay attention to details* - or it could kill you. Death of some very competent people has resulted from stuff like not doubling back the harness, keeping it too loose, or not verifying/testing anchors or not tying a 'stop knot' in the end of a rap rope.

Abstract: Trip Dates Dec 28 to Dec 31 oops to Jan 3 It was slow going S of Chinook Pass w/ the unconsolidated new snow and add'l daily storms. This was lots of work for just two people to break trail along the PCT. Despite the tremendous amount of snow and high avalanche terrain, we saw no avalanche activity except for some day old tracks (class 1, single pt releases) on the leeward side of Naches Pk on day 2 (Dec 29) and similar class 2 runs on the windward side of pks 6350 and 6388 just S of American Lk. The area between Crystal Mtn and Bumping R along the PCT contains many avalanche prone slopes, most of which we were able to avoid. Navigating from Bumping R. to White Pass in white-out was no cake walk. TR by date Dec 28 Got a late start, not getting to Crystal until 9:30a.m. We checked in w/ Crystal Ski Patrol for excellent local reports on avy conditions and control work. We talked to the patroller who bombed Three-Way Pk and decided on heading up the slope they bombed. We had a great ski into Crystal Lk basin, and another down from Sheep Gap. Camp 1 above hwy 410 (Deadwood Lk?). Dec 29 We avoided the worst of the avy slopes above hwy 410 by climbing up into a basin N of the hwy then skiing down to the Chinook Pass. Anchors were still visible on the PCT S of Chinook Pass, so we risked the slopes and skied over to Dewey Lk for water, crossed 3 small steep open slopes then up to Anderson Lk to camp. Dec 30 We awoke to 6-8" new snow and continued along the PCT to One Lk drainage. We lost the PCT at the pass near American Lk. This is the same pass where, a month previous, I had stopped for lunch on my day ski S from Chinook Pass. Along the route we crossed a long steep slope that had many pt releases w/in the last 48 hrs. Travel began to become very strenuous w/ the new snow on the unconsolidated snow. Visibility was poor. Taking note of our slow progress, we began conserving food and fuel (no desert tonight). Camp above One Lk. Dec 31 With poor visibility and add'l new snow we missed our intended route along benches near Two Lk and we traversed steep slopes to a pt above a pass N of pt 5941. We thrashed down 80 ft through cliffs and trees to gain the pass. We then headed over and around pt 5941 to a pass just E of it. We managed to find a route around cliffs and thick trees down to Fish Lk (1800 ft descent). "Hero snow" conditions made this tricky descent a real treat. To conserve fuel we camped near Fish Lk and used the remaining daylight to pre-set a track through deep snow to our next land-mark. Jan 1 We get worried that we are overdue and still have lots of miles to go. The snowpack refuses to consolidate although no new snow falls until noon. We make our way S up a gentle drainage (Bumping R.) using the stream as a hand rail and find the pt where the PCT (invisible under snow these last days) crosses the stream. In this area, despite heavy snow and open meadows, we were able to follow the PCT (mostly following straight lines and tree blazes) all the way to confusing tr junctions near Snow Lk. We camped at dark, still not finding Snow Lk, but finding water. Jan 2 The snow was deep, the blazes were confusing, and the terrain difficult to read. We finally just followed a SSE bearing towards other large landmarks which we also managed to miss in the fog. Finally we came out at a high pt above Buesch Lk. During a brief lifting of the clouds, we could see White Pass Ski area strait S of us (magnetic). Camp at Buesch Lk just as it starts to rain hard. Jan 3 Despite the rain, the only skiable crust is in the trees. Fortunately there are lots of trees. We missed our intended landmark above Buesch Lk, took a bearing, and ended up in Dog Lk drainage (N fk Clear Cr?) instead of the Sandy Lk flats. We skied down, and down, and down to Dog Lk where we met the HWY, walked up to some yelling noises (kids on sleds) and were met by Yakima Co. SAR. The End. Logistics I picked this rt at this time of yr because of its low elevation, the low snow pack w/ visible anchors and the fact that the terrain gets safer the farther S you go. The area is also below tree-line, and therefore sheltered from the weather. I love exploring, and I had never been to the center of this area. I knew the navigation on the S end would be fun and challenging. Brian, Chris, and I left my car at White Pass after Christmas when we went to ski the Hogs Back. Despite arm twisting, I could not get these two to come on the traverse. Brian said something about a wedding. I attempted a little 11th hr recruiting as well, to no avail. It was left to NV and me to break all the trail. I expect that we could have eliminated a day for every add'l person used to break trail. I expected the snow to consolidate as it usually does after a day or so, but the temps remained cold and the snow kept building up. We each carried 2 to 2.5 lbs of food per day for the expected 4 days. Our packs, fully loaded, started out weighing about 25 lbs. We brought 44oz of fuel total and melted snow 3 nights (and had 11 oz left over at the end.) Generally I allow for 11 oz per person per day – which gives you enough fuel to melt 6qts of water, cook two meals, have hot drinks, and boil up a hot water bottle for your feet. My feet get cold at night, so I brought along a pocket warmer that burns naphtha or white gas. I found it would burn all night in my bag, warm up my feet, and dry out my fleece glove and still be hot for a few hrs in the morning. I kept it handy in the a.m. to warm up my boot liners and heat my hands after fine work w/ naked fingers in the snow. Our shelter was a 2.5 lb Mega-Mid w/ skis to anchor the corners and an avy ski-pole for the center-pole. Each night we would stomp out a platform for the Mega-Mid and usually dig a kitchen. The snow was so unconsolidated that even after a good stomping the platform would not hold your weight w/o skis. Thus, by morning we were each sleeping in small bath-tub like depressions. After a night or two we perfected the system of stomping out a trench around the Mega-Mid for use as a place to dump the accumulated snow during the night. Other than my gloves, I stayed dry until after day 4. NV, however, will break into a sweat just standing still, so I passed the pocket warmer off to him at night to help him dry out. My Feathered Friends Gore-Tex over bag lost maybe 30% of its loft at its wettest. NV’s FF 20 degree bag lost up to 60% due to moisture. He is all for getting another NF Cat’s Meow (synthetic). I wore mostly just med wt under-wear under my Gore-Tex shell and expedition wt equivalent while in camp. I would ski out wearing camp clothing, then reach in and zip off my exp wt pants and shirt when things warmed up. Skiing to dark was not an issue, but it was really hard to get skiing before we had an hr of light in the morning. It sometimes took us 3 hrs to get moving, and getting up earlier in the dark did not help much. It seems things take twice as long to organize in the dark, even w/ headlamps and a candle lantern lighting the way. NV was on randonee gear, and so had to wear skins most of the time. I was on bc gear w/ fish-scales and had more flexibility – but due to the very light snow, I had my skins on almost as often as NV. Footnotes This is the first trip where I’ve actually lost some weight. Usually I gain it. My thighs are now strong enough to win a kicking contest w/ a mule. We found Maxi-Glide worked great for everything from frozen tight ski poles, to sticky snow on skis and bindings, to frozen skins. We started to exhibit expedition behavior around day 4. Had we been injured, SAR would have had quite a time getting us out. You almost always need someone on the ground before helicopters can be used for extraction. I'm not sure the snow was consolidated enough for most helicopters to land. In CND, we've always stamped out a heli-pad or landed on a wind-swept summit or ridge. Help me perfect the Hamaker temperature scale. 1. Power Bars are chewy (70 deg F) 2. Naked is cold (50 deg F) 3. Snow is cement (40 deg F) 4. Chocolate brittle and hard to chew (35 deg F) 5. Cheese and caramel is rock-hard (30 deg F) 6. Bagels break your teeth(25 deg F) 7. Water bladder tubes freeze, even after blow-back (20 deg F) 8. The water in your Nalgene forms ice crusts even as you travel, breath freezes to all surfaces, damp clothing freezes into abstract shapes (15 deg F) 9. You can entertain yourself by watching ice crystals grow in your water bottle, spilled spit and hot chocolate freeze as you watch. (10 deg F) 10. Breathing cold air freezes in your lungs and is exhaled as tiny snow crystals. Snot freezes before you can wipe it away. (5 deg F)

I've still got the blade, but need a handle. Or I'll sell you the blade cheep. pm me.

>>I think the scale is F, PD (+/-), AD (+/-), D (+/-), TD (+/-), ED (1, 2, ...)<< YUCK! What is wrong w/ going w/ just the traditional Grade/difficulty rating? It is acurate enough to give you the general idea and help you pick rts in your ability range - but you must still (the horror!) do actual research w/ map and guidebook.

We are back. Thanks for your concern and keeping the posts clean and *on topic*. Abstract: It was slow going S of Chinook Pass w/ the unconsolidated new snow and add'l daily storms. This was lots of work for just two people to break trail. Despite the tremendous amount of snow and high avalanche terain, we saw no avalanche activity except for some day old tracks (class 1, single pt releases) on the leeward side of Naches Pk on day 2 (Dec 29). The area between Crystal Mtn and Bumping R along the PCt contains many avalanche prone slopes, most of which we were able to avoid. Navigating from Bumping R. to White Pass in white-out was no cake walk. You would be surprised how many damaged trees look like they have been blazed w/ an ax. We thank all the Yakima Co SAR personell and especially the *volonteers* for a well organized effort. FYI, my check-in person says that before SAR could be activated they needed to find all vehicles involved, and check my residence in Tacoma to see if I was in. Finding my white 2 dr car under several feet of snow was apparently difficult. Only after all this was verified and Pierce Co Sheriff? called Yakima Co. SAR was the SAR activated. TR to follow in Southern WA Cascades thread.

Goodwill, Value Village . . .

I vote Tracker for ease of use. Have they "fixed" the harness yet?

W/ my current generation of tighter fitting but warmer boots, I've been using one layer of synthetic/wool blends. For winter overnights I carry one extra pair for sleeping and for the last day.

You've got yourself a nice pair of spring (firn) gliders. Just don't try to use them on our deep unconsoladated cascade concrete. You'll need real skiis for that, no way around it I'm affraid.

Let me know if you are interested and what other ski overnights you've done. We will need 4 days - most of this will follow the PCT, though there will be some steep side-hilling. About 30 miles, mabey 5k gain/loss. I now have a party of two total and would like more. We leave the first two avy safe days after x-mass and won't leave after new yrs day. I'll be on double cambered gear (fish scales). best to contact me at jhamaker@operamail.com

Let me know if you are interested and what other ski overnights you've done. We will need 4 days - most of this will follow the PCT, though there will be some steep side-hilling. About 30 miles, mabey 5k gain/loss. I now have a party of two total and would like more. We leave the first two avy safe days after x-mass and won't leave after new yrs day. I'll be on double cambered gear (fish scales). jhamaker@operamail.com would be best contact pt.

My Montana's lasted 11 yrs of hard abuse but only needed two re-gluings. Ascention glue works a little better than the other glues.

I hope you have better luck than I do. I worked 6 months trying to put on fat for Denali, and only gained 5lbs - wich was gone and turned into 10lbs of muscle by the time I returned. Let us know what you did and how it turned out. If you sleep cold - try a hot water bottle. Once I learned to fill the Nalgene up as much as possible, then shake it up and release the presure a few times, I've never had one leak. The water bottle works great for my terminaly cold feet. If you don't want to spend the fuel, use a chemical heat pack or one of those slow burning lighter fluid modles (pocket warmers). Remember if you eat too big a meal before bed, all your blood will be tranfered to your stomach to aid in digestion and may not keep you as warm. I hope the ice god smiles upon your trip.

You are not serious about climbing that choss pile are you? By the W ridge? There is a reason it is very rarely climbed. Not too long ago a large part of the face ended up onto the glacier below. Can I have your skull (fragments) when you are done with it? At least take a look first from the E ridge.

If it costs $30 per climber per climb to keep rangers in the office and toilets on the mountain - then remove them. I'll help. Look at the MORA table of "public expectations". Note how they have created a "need" then ask for money to fund it. Just say "No!" to bureaucratic greed and empire building.

Just came back. Sat was barely warm enough, Sun was in the 30's brrrr. I've decided to wait untill the temp gets into the 50's before trying to climb. Cheque the weather for Redmond, OR.

Watch the snow level. Fall and early summer you can park at the hwy 410/White R intersection and drive (gate now closed) or bike to snowline. In summer the rd is plowed before the gate opens. Once you are in the vicinity of White R campground, go up towards the Interglacier (Emmons/Whinthrop rt) and take the tr strait up the side of the valley to Sunrise. Since you are in the area, visit Summerland and Little Tahoma.

Off Topic FYI: I have a pair of goggles shown in Trask's post. Wanna buy them? They fog up if you work too hard while wearing them.