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jhamaker

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Everything posted by jhamaker

  1. Do you have a tick list? Grades? Difficulty?
  2. I say go for it. After you can survive black, head out on easy stuff to learn skinning WITH A PARTNER. Don't want to find yourself in a tree well w/o assistance less than 120 seconds away (or how ever long you can hold your breath). I reccomend Hyak as a training hill. Mt. Margaret, Anabalis,are good but not Granite or anything in the Source Lk or Commonweatlth basin (avy central) In seven short years I could teach you to tele ski.
  3. 60" ! That's a lot of gear! I've gone down to about 40". I also have a commercial pulk, closser to 60".
  4. Could you set asside a week for them all? Skiable routes?
  5. Can you frequently string 3 and 4 day trips together?
  6. I let the 3 or 4 mm cord uncoil from my shoulder, neck, or from the spagetti pile in my pack. The thinner the line, the more likely it is to tangle.
  7. I could definately be in for El Portero. Driving? I lead 5.10-.
  8. You'll be in the hills much more often than your climbing buddies, but when they are working on first ascents, you'll be showing knots to strangers.
  9. I'm looking for a copy of "Les Concourants de l'Inutile" by Lionel Tierry to buy or borrow.
  10. Can't realy sleep in my Audi 90 Quatro, but boy does it stick to the ice!
  11. er, Park Gl. Right. Looks like next wk if the weahter window opens as predicted.
  12. First choice is Parker Gl on Baker. I'll check back on Sun.
  13. jhamaker

    trip advice

    Spend an extra day w/ the guides and have them teach you stuff. American guide svcs. like AAI, Bellingham, are well known for the "teach + climb" model.
  14. <> I dissagree. I can think of a *few* 60M raps, but not many, and not winter rts. Examples?
  15. Heading to J-Tree Dec. 18, back on Jan 2. Room for two.
  16. Heading to J-Tree Dec. 18, back on Jan 2. Room for two.
  17. I like it lots. I like finding cool un-developed camp spots. Can someone post the name of the route setter who sets sport rts. w/ close bolt spacing? The rock is realy fun. Unique. The route pro for most routes is reminiscent of Darrington and Tuolome. REM: The vegetation is nasty. Water is limited or non existant.
  18. Just got back. It's raining till Wed. at least.
  19. Yep, 30M is fine. I brought a pull-cord, don't think I used it. Sticky shoes were nice for the friction pitch. Still wondering why folks haul long fat ropes into the mountains.
  20. You are a hard-man. 60M ropes in the Mountains?! The vast majority of routes were put up w/ 30, 40, or 50M ropes. Answer: 50M is fine. If I were to repeat it, I'd bring a 30M and a pull-cord. IMHO, Chopping block is the finest climb in the larger basin, except perhaps the 5.7 on Himmel? Auto? Horn.
  21. Awesome marathon of the Park Gl.! *I* would enjoy it more w/ a base camp. Thanks esp. for the beta on the Mazama Gl. and the pics of the Park Gl. headwall.
  22. Great Fun! That wall does not get near enough attention. What beta did you find most useful? Would you still call it A4 w/ all the added bolts??
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