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Jim

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Everything posted by Jim

  1. Jim

    Castleton Tower

    Good question, but not overly optimistic. I can't answer that but it's a toll free call to find out.
  2. Jim

    Castleton Tower

    Utah Open Lands 1790 South 1100 East Salt Lake City, UT 84105 toll free 1-877-800-2874
  3. There's another article in this month's Rock and Ice about the proposed development at the base of the tower. A nonprofit group is trying to raise funds to purchase the land. If you've climbed it, want to, or just like the look of it, you should cough up some money for this effort. While I think government should do more to protect places like this, they can't do it all, particularly in Utah, or in the current political climate. So pitch in if you can.
  4. Dang these are manky rides. I like when lists like these get around. A couple weeks ago some friends and I rode on the east side, 5,300 ft eleveation gain. Nap on top in the sun, cruise down a close road while looking down on the Columbia. It's awesome and we've never seen bikers out there, or our other stashes.
  5. Jim

    Smith

    I'm in Prinville area for work around the 21-21nd of Nov. Will it be warm enough for a few routes then?
  6. My '98 outback is not a bad car but my '69 VW van has higher ground clearance and sleeps more. No heat for those ski trips however.
  7. One other note. You don't have to lead to climb. There's a few folks I climb with that just want to climb but don't like the lead thing. The idea is to have fun, get a little scared, and have a beer afterwards with friends, and to live to climb another day.
  8. Um, if she rappelled off that anchor wouldn't she have decked? Maybe she should get instruction from someone with more experience.
  9. Good luck. I moved to the NW 15 years ago and the water ice scene here makes me nervous. The weather is too variable. There's a few places like the Columbia River Gorge or Banks Lake that are ok when it gets cold enough, but nothing like the interior. Others will likely have some suggestions for some hidden gems in the peaks. My opinion is that it's pretty mankey compared to New England water ice.
  10. Well said Sayjay. I would agree with the observation regarding gym climbers and the transition to trad. Try leading a climb you have been a second on previously and one that is at least several grades below your comfortable top-rope level. If it freaks you out too much, maybe it's not your thing. Good luck, be safe.
  11. Sorry, I must have been sleeping for a while or something - where is Observation Rock, other than near Ranier (or is it Tiger?)? Looks like a good day trip this time of year.
  12. 8's send about one twist per 10-12 foot of rope on the rappel, ATC's about a third of that. I don't know about gri-gris but these see more complicated than necessary, unless you're having a newbie belay you. 8's are not good for belaying. For simplicity just take an ATC for belaying and rapelling.
  13. I don't think snow machines are allowed within the National Park boundary but are likely used around town. Holden village could be a better bet for some trail skiing. A bit avy prone near Copper peak and further up the valley towards Bonnanza, but some nice areas to tool around. Spring is better to get in the backcountry.
  14. As tragic as this event is, I'm not sure carving into the rock is something in the spirit of Goran's aesthetics. I don't know him, just saw his film, but he went through so much effort to maintain an aesthetic on his trip. It seems odd to me that this was suggested. I dunno, maybe I'm wrong, maybe he loved to carve his name in places.
  15. Go light. I ran it in a bit over 4 hours a couple years ago starting at Colchuck trailhead. And I'm old (47). Just take some iodine to refill bottles. One in a carrier, another using a hand strap, cliff bars, gu, and you're set. Light windbreaker is advisable. Better get up there and do it soon.
  16. The primary limitation of digital cameras, if you're looking for good photos, is the lens. The optics are just not up to those of film cameras, until recently. Nikon has recently introduced a DX series that uses Nikon 35mm lenses!! Big improvement, but pricey. If you're just looking for point-and-shoot quality though the there's so me good suggestions above.
  17. If you're talking about the crack throught the face left of the ridge that goes through black lichen I thought it was a stiff 5.8, but I lack finesse on cracks.
  18. Jim

    FRESHIEZ

    As with most information on the web you have to sort through the rubbish to find what you're looking for. While there is some good-natured elbows to the ribs, some of it is on the high-school level. But whatta going to do. Folks are anonymous so the ones with lots of time, odd social inclinations, and a big L stamped on their forehead will use the site to 'dis folks. But there is a wealth of knowledge out there that you can tap into, just have to filter out the noise. No worse or better than the web in general.
  19. Jim

    FRESHIEZ

    As with most information on the web you have to sort through the rubbish to find what you're looking for. While there is some good-natured elbows to the ribs, some of it is on the high-school level. But whatta going to do. Folks are anonymous so the ones with lots of time, odd social inclinations, and a big L stamped on their forehead will use the site to 'dis folks. But there is a wealth of knowledge out there that you can tap into, just have to filter out the noise. No worse or better than the web in general.
  20. coffee - black.
  21. OK. I've been up the WR twice. Once from the bottom, once from the the glacier route. Both times after tromping up some 2-3 class stuff towards the top we came across a short (60 ft) wall at the end. It was foggy both times and I don't think we went up the standard way. Seems like the first time it was a half pitch at about 5.9 and second time an easier way was around 5.4. I don't remember any mention of technical climbing once on the easy stuff. So, facing the summit, is there a class 3-4 way around to the left or something? I'm tempted to go again just for to check it out. Thanks.
  22. Chuck - sounds like the ticket. Fog, low light, wanna get on top. Both times we said "this looks good" Both times ended up saying there must be an easier scramble up. Thanks.
  23. Jim

    feckin jerkies

    Also some interesting comments coming from Scott Ritter - the head US guy on the prior inspections. He is saying that contrary to the Little Georgie administration comments, the inspections got 95% of Iraq's arsenal. This guy is an ex-marine, voted for Bush, and is pissed at the lies the administration is trying to use to push Congress into action. Ritter suggests going back in and inspecting, using coercive measures if necessary, as suggested by the Carnagie Institure. What's the friggin rush?
  24. Jim

    feckin jerkies

    Very interesting article on US designs on the oil fields by the Cheney gang: http://www.sfgate.com/columnists/sorensen/ Little Georgie is in too much of a rush to get this done.
  25. Jim

    Mt. Pugh

    It's a great little peak with a commanding view of Sloan. The top was blasted off to accommodate a fire tower that is no longer there. A decent hike, some small talus to deal with above the lake, and then a short scramble to the top. I've always thought it would be a good introduction to alpine scrambling.
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