fleblebleb

Hehe, that's pretty funny, I thought Trask was male. Live and learn, eh?

I had rock shoes resoled there, worked out great. I have this pair of aggressively sized (small, I mean) mountaineering boots that are just awesome for climbing but can be quite painful when descending on trail. People keep telling me to take them to the bootfitter. What the hell does that mean? What does the bootfitter actually do? Anybody know?

Cutthroat S Butt, Glacier Peak Sitkum, Challenger from Hannegan Pass to Ross Lake, in the last month.

Yawn Anybody up for some climbing? How about spraying about climbing? Can't believe it's Sunday morning and I'm reading this crap.

Hey, it says we all qualify... I got one extra point, how many did you get? If you choose your climbs to maximize the approach, do you lose five points?

I bet the Cap'n has some dingleberries for you there, Bianga Pighead. I don't care about the occasional name dropping, for sure - Bakey is what, 82 or 83 this year? Isn't he born in '29? The man's a freaking inspiration. I bet when a lot of us hit 40 we won't be in the kind of shape Beckey is in at 80+. Just lay off.

quote: Originally posted by 666: I dont know what's so damn hard about WALK THE FUCK OFF THE MOUNTAIN when someone is capable of walking up to the summit and bivying next to you Wow, that's embarassingly naive... It's fairly simple. The guys who walked up to the summit to bivi knew what they were getting into and took the gear for it - full Goretex body armor and all that (heavy) stuff. On the other hand, Lammy and the harem (heehee, that just sounds too funny to let it be ) were going light - which generally means run like hell when the weather shows up. Too bad they were asleep when the shit hit. Makes you rethink the going light bit when headed off for multiday trips - or at least it should [ 08-04-2002, 11:40 AM: Message edited by: fleblebleb ]

I thought the Bone was easier than Classic Crack. It's got something to do with the size of your hands and the size of the crack... Then I thought the easy stuff above the step-across on Canary was mind-numbingly scary and far harder than the actual step-across. Anyway. It's all relative. Or maybe I'm just weird Oh. My mountain spankings: Baker always storms on me. First it bitch-slapped me on the Coleman-Deming, turned around somewhere between the col and the wall in some kind of a rain storm. Only time in the States when I've experienced rain drops going up, higher in the air. Previously I was certain rain always falls to the ground around here. Then I went back to try the North Ridge and that time I didn't even bother getting out of my sleeping bag after peeking out of the cave. The summit might as well have had ambush spraypainted on it in a 300' font. Yech. Had and instead. I'm X summits for X attempts on all the other volcanos, what's with Baker? Eh? [ 08-02-2002, 06:01 PM: Message edited by: fleblebleb ]

Now where's Cavey funny signature image when you really need it, eh?

I've been thinking about getting that book but there are new editions of Beckey and Nelson guides in the work and there is only so much cash I'm willing to drop on guidebooks... Doesn't the Kearny book have info on some climbs in BC too? Is it good? What's a good book for alpine routes in BC anyway? [ 08-01-2002, 11:33 PM: Message edited by: fleblebleb ]

I'll save you the trouble of looking up the Uemura chapter in the Wickwire book. There is already more information about Uemura's crevasse poles in this thread than in the book, because if I remember correctly the book doesn't mention what he does with the poles. Try digging up some books on Eskimo/Inuit survival techniques instead. You might look at the Wickwire book for the first chapter though, it has some insights into solo glacier travel.

Heh, that's a good one, why wouldn't we want to climb with you Lammy? Because you got a ride in the twirlwing? I bet that as far as the SAR guys are concerned that cell phone made the difference between a straightforward "let's hike up there and get them" and a full-blown scouring of the entire mountain. I mean, it's not like you would have been any less stuck without the phone... I'll climb with you, no problem.

Right 'Tude, "light is right is Twight". Let me go look up his words of wisdom on three day carryover rambles on the standard routes of PNW volcanos, with scenic summit camping for the views etc. ... Dang. Can't really find anything in that book that applies. Wait! Except maybe the title, which seems to imply that the gospel is a bit irrelevant to Lammy's adventure? Hmm...

HARHARHAR ChucK, that made me laugh. Hey, is anybody else thinking that a whole discussion about (a) going light, and (b) multi-day trips and forecasts, and © both at the same time, is just waiting to happen here...? Bring on the spray

I was there 10 days ago and typical year or not, Goat Boy's Glacier Peak description is pretty much right on the money. In good weather the climb is more like an easy hike. By the time we descended, after hanging out on the summit in sunshine and no wind for a good long while, the snow had softened up to the point where crampons were quite unnecessary. The freezing level was at 12000' that weekend. We climbed the Sitkum with a bivi in Boulder Basin, you can stay on snow above that. I liked the area enough to want to go back up there by Frostbite Ridge next year, but only car-to-car and running the approach trails. The bugs are really nasty and the approach quite a slog with plenty of opportunities to get lost after missing a trail fork etc. Olympus... don't know yet but I'll be there in early September

If anyone has gotten a look at the NE Face of Fury within the last couple of weeks or so I'd like to hear about it. Post a reply or PM me. Thanks/Stefan

Look, it's not Lou! Hah-haha, destroyed your silly little thread

Maude, Seven-fingered Jack, the rest of the Entiat Range for all I know.

The rap stations from the summit down the gully on the western side of Cutthroat didn't give me that warm happy feeling... The first two were OK. The third consists of tied runners that are threaded through a cavity behind a flake. The flake is attached above and below the cavity but isn't confidence-inspiring. The only possible backups (not completely independent of the flake) are tiny cams (we didn't have any) or a pink tricam. The fourth and fifth stations are small-to-medium, stunted trees - and they're really, really, really dead. We climbed the South Buttress and would probably have rapped the route if we'd known this beforehand.

Nelson/Potterfield say that the exact itinerary has never been repeated, can't remember which of the two books. I'd like to read the Harvey Manning article after seeing your review - where can I find The Mountaineer 1958? Mountaineers clubhouse? Won't they be mean to me for posting on this bboard? [ 07-09-2002, 04:49 PM: Message edited by: fleblebleb ]

Feathered Friends has Kayland Multi Tractions, same kind of boot.

Amazing - 13 days! Thanks Lowell. So they started on July 19th and finished on July 31st, and I also missed two peaks - Old Guard and Spire Point. Ehrm, what's a tricouni?

Hey... I've been trying to piece together the original itinerary of the Ptarmigan Traverse by Bressler et al. Beckey's green book has been my best source. It has a description of the Traverse in the approaches section and also mentions the Ptarmigans in the sections for each (?) of the peaks that were climbed. I've seen the Traverse mentioned in several other books but little detail. Here's what I've got so far: July 21 1938: Dome Peak Traverse 23 : Sentinal and Le Conte 25 : Magic, Spider and Formidable 26 : Johannesburg 28 : Sahale, Buckner by the North Face I'm guessing they started out on July 20 and headed back on the 29th, making it a 10 day trip? Am I missing any peaks? Did they summit Boston or settle for traversing the flanks on their way to Buckner? What were their campsites?

Yeah, or and a Lowell, when will you publish your book? After reading this post I wanted to find out more about the Isolation Traverse and the other routes that were linked together - I had only heard of the Ptarmigan Traverse (silly me...). I found some information in the subject index section of the Alpenglow site, but not very much. Can you point to more reading material outside of old club journals and the like?

To Dennis, I say again: Go scuba dive in the shit pits next to the Muir Hut.