willstrickland

quote: Originally posted by chucK: [so what exact bit of forethought do you use to know which placements will be available to you later on a pitch? 1. Look up...duh 2. If you've just placed your 2nd and last blue TCU, consider walking it ahead of you in the crack until you can place something else, cleaning it and having it higher on the pitch in case you need it. I do this semi-often. 3. My concern is usually more about having the right gear left to construct an anchor than about having the right pieces left for the pitch...you can always run it out a bit to a different sized placement.

Lands of granite (Yos, N. Cascades, Index, Squish)and Sandstone (Utah desert) await me for the next 18 months. Going back to the dirtbag climbing bum lifestyle where I belong. Then into a doctoral program in Park and Rec Admin.

Dammit E, why you give away my secrets? I'm gonna wrap this stay at CC up with a farwell 1000th post. Got a couple of days to get there. Hopefully I don't hit 999 and then really want to reply to something....

No problems with it. The manufacturers split the ropes you buy in the store off a continuous line from a given production run. That's why there are "short" ropes that some places sell of varying lengths...they are the end of a production run and the material doesn't come out precise enough to end the run with an exact length (i.e. 50m or 60m). If you don't melt the ends with good equipment you could get sheath slippage in some cases.

I got my times down a little by looking to the side of my moitor and using peripheral vision. Still the best I could do was .22

What is the point of avatars when the "real" user becomes evident? Some will say "but we know xyz avatar is really Ray"...and everyone who's said something like that to me has been BRRRRAAAAAAHHHHHH wrong. How do I know this? Because I knew who was using the avatars they were talking about (no not me). So I'd say a particular regular, who happens to have beef with Lambone (no not Cavey),is pretty evidently RURP. Not like this is news or anything, I believe the identity has been know from the get go. The comments about being negative getting to you to the point you have to hide your 'bone hatred behind an avatar? Feeling washed up? Wish you could get your big wall wannabe ass up something like the Shield? Good riddance RURP, long may you run. Just trying to stir up a little CC drama, my soap-operas are off the air today.

Just another H.U. - Red Rocks has tons of these things still around, be aware if you're headed that way.

I've heard about this off and on for months on OPB radio. After having just walked into the north side, using the Tilly Jane trail and the ski cabin as a rest stop, I've gotta say it makes me mad, fighting mad. There's something so nice about the north side...and that something is tranquility and seclusion. Do I wish I could have started from 6000 instead of 3700? Sure. But at the cost of development? Hell no! You want easier access? Wait until the Tilley Jane CG and Cloud Cap road open. The ski area as it is has virtually nothing...a t bar and rope tow, a few runs, not much elev, and not much in amenities. That's fine, keeps the masses out. Meadows is looking to expand because, lets face it, meadows is running at capacity in season. Portland area growth is still huge and they see the potential dollars...everyone sees that. Why am I telling you guys this? Hell we know all this, the question is how to educate/motivate/mobilize the masses of wilderness lovers in the area...and there are a shitload of them out there.

Matt A and Jason's experience basically mirrors my own. I would add: Investigate the euro web-sites such as Barrabes, sportextreme, and telemarkpyrenees. Generally much cheaper than US prices for the same gear. Check your local gear shops and climbing gyms for people selling off their rack...this works especially well in suburban yuppified areas. Do you one one "main" climbing partner? Build one rack between the two of you. Try to find deals on "sets" of nuts or cams. My first full set of cams came from me walking into a shop in Provo, UT and negotiating the price on a set of camalots to get it down to something I could afford. I've bought sets of BD stoppers for $65, and sets of DMM walnuts for $61. Got a friend that works for an outfitter, outdoor program, manufacturer, etc? Get them to hook you up with a pro-deal. Re: rigid friends. I've still got some from the 80's on my rack and I lived in the southeast for a long time where half the placements are in horizontals. They are bomber, but not such a good choice in smaller sizes due to levering and whatnot. In the large sizes they tend to be better because the stem generally doesn't interfere with the placement in a large crack. I keep the few I have left slung through the hole nearest the cam lobes...a "tied off" placement of sorts that eliminates the chance of levering the stem over an edge. You should really try to lead with some friends' racks to see which particular brands work best for you. You won't remember the $8 difference per cam when you're gripped on the 20th pitch trying to whip off the right size and place it before you pump out.

I've seen a few idea for funding etc tried out on other sites...user donations, sponsors, ads, etc. It seems that donations don't do the trick, just can't generate the dollars on a continual basis. Sponsors are tricky because they are not going to give something for nothing and the "something" they want back is exposure...and with this crew they might re-think that idea after the first hundred posts ripping them a new asshole for being corporate (yes, I'm guilty). Corporate/business donations in exchange for being a listed "patron" perhaps with the exposure component coming via a link on the main page to their company/product site might be an option. I know you guys have a good provider, and big storage, traffic, etc...so I know it's gotta be some significant out of pocket for you, especially considering the software cost and your status as climbers, even if you have a "real" job. I'm rambling and don't seem to be saying much, so I'll cut it. My feeling is that a corporate donor program may be the most viable way to infuse some cash in exchange for a link. (read what you want into this, I still won't be supporting the mega-corporations, but take their money? yes I would)

quote: Originally posted by carolyn: I will be in Portland this Saturday thru... (And hows about a pubclub that week - maybe wednesday? anyone plan on ? Mmmmmm budweiser! j/k...I promise to venture out and try a Terminal Gravity brew. carolyn Carolyn, they call Portland "beervana" for a reason. If you order a Bud here, you might go home in a body bag except that people are too mellow to confront you It's the microbrew capital! Do yourself a favor and sample the local goods, with spring rolling there are all sorts of lighter bodied beers if you're not up for the stouts and porters. Of course you have to try TG's IPA, and perennial local faves include Deschutes' Mirror Pond Ale, Bachelor ESB, Black Butte Porter; Portland Brewing's Blue Heron Ale, Black Watch Cream Porter; Bridgeport's IPA, ESB; Widmer Bros Hefeweizen; Full Sail's Pale, Amber,...you can find those bottled in about any store selling beer. I've never had a beer from the Lucky Lab that I disliked. Explore on all fronts! A visit to the Horsebrass Pub will yield a huge selection of local, british, and other international brew. Likewise the Produce Row Cafe. Don't miss the Thai, Vietnamese, and Indian food in town either, west coast is rampant with excellent asian food. Suggestions: Swagat for Indian. Pho Hung for Vietnamese specialty soups (pho). Saigon Kitchen for std viet and thai fare. Thai Peacock, Beau Thai, Lemongrass(my pref)for std Thai. Mmmm lunch time!

Good info folks. I was the one who originally suggested this hike to C. The beginning is kind of non-descript when you're climbing the initial talus/scree to gain the ridge. Once you get into the flats up top, around where the trail crosses the small creek, there is a wooden trail junction sign that'll let you know you're on track. The creek trail (return section of the loop) takes off left from there and loops back the way you came, but down the valley that was on your left on the hike in. You can not get lost on this section...just follow the creek down (trail is very used too). We parked at the outer lot next to the old restroom building. I belive the exit off Hyw 84 is number 51, the exit sign says "Eagle Creek / Fish hatchery" or something very similar. The initial section of trail we used to gain the ruckel was another trail...butler or buck or something...anyone? This was the first hike I did in Oregon, and still remains my favorite...of course the Eagle Creek trail is amazing too, but WAY crowded. We didn't see another person on the Ruckel...there was about 2 feet of snow on the upper half whe we did it so that might have been a factor. Regardless, the views are awesome, the elev gain is enough to get your body workin but not enough to wear you down. I thought the gain was in the mid 2000 range? It's been well over a year since I hiked it, and that's alot of bong tokes ago.

Here's a little tip if you stay in C4. At the restrooms, if you go around back there's an unmarked door. It's the handi-crapper. If you want some bathroom privacy, or can't tolerate the funk of a room full of filthy climbers taking dumps...you got it...the handicrapper. Also works well if you need to shoot-up some smack since the door locks, and your woman might not be so terrified of staying there if she's got a little bathroom privacy. But remember this...if you're taking too much time in the handicrapper, I WILL beat on the door and do all other manner of things to disturb you until you get out of my handicrapper.

I'll reply because I was the other dude with TG...from 3700ft at the ski area we camped at about 8000 on the spur...took about 4 leisurely hours as I recall. We crossed the shrund about 5:15...roughly an hour and 15 mins after starting the traverse/descent onto the elliot. There's alot of exposed rock up there, much more than it appears from below. The route is also quite a bit less steep than it appears from a distance. Great looking line, but definitely a much longer undertaking than starting from 6500.

Be A Gaper Like Me: West Gully of North Face – Mt Hood It all started auspiciously enough, a Portland Pub Club, with good beer and climber camaraderie. Crashing in my van, I was awakened by the constant traffic of big trucks and the rumbling of freight trains in the inner-southeast industrial zone I was calling home for the night. At 8:00am when the alarm sounded, I was still beat, feeling the need for about 6 more hours of sleep. A quick breakfast of eggs and spuds and we’re off to the mountain. No hurry today, we’ve got all day to approach. A short stop in Hood River for supplies and we’re at the Cooper Spur Ski area in good time. After some extended time packing…where’s my helmet?….we start hoofing it up the trail, elevation 3700, around 1:45pm. Carrying our boots and wearing approach shoes, we make good time through the snow covered trail to the Tilley Jane Ski Cabin. Switching to boots and leaving our shoes in the cabin, we continue on, grinding our way up the lower spur on what is essentially the eastern moraine of the Elliot glacier. We pass one soloist coming down but otherwise we’re completely alone on this side of the mountain. A couple of memorial plaques on the boulders make for an interesting distraction, and scoping the route in front of me takes my mind off the drudgery of the approach. The route looks fun, primarily moderate angle snow with a couple of steps of 60-70 degree ice. We’ve planned to get as high as possible (something I tried the night before as well) to bivy and at the last reasonably flat spot on the lower spur pitch our camp. TG does the labor work of chopping out a ledge while I wonder how the hell I’ve forgotten to bring my helmet on a Hood climb…Gaper mistake No.1. By 7:00pm, camp is set, the sun is creeping below the north face cleaver and it’s getting COLD. The profile of the mountain is casting a really cool shadow on the stratosphere, and stars are beginning to twinkle. We’re in a fairly exposed spot, right on the crest of the spur, but the wind is mellow and the views are great. Blonde jokes are flying as we wind down. About the time TG fires up the stove to cook his super-gourmet $2.00 per pack Ramen, I notice my platypus bladder is leaking…shit, Gaper mistake No. 2. Oh well, I’ve got a Nalgene and the route actually looks pretty short with the technical difficulties only making up around 1200ft of the route. I chow down my gourmet (yeah right) Oscar Meyer Lunchables…cheese, crackers, and processed meat and my eyes are ready to close. With all the crap inside my bag…liner boots, water bottles, breakfast, gloves, I feel like I’m inside my pack or something. Sleep comes easily, although in fits, because whichever side I am laying on cuts the circulation from that arm. In a few hours I suddenly awake. “Huh? What?” TG is telling me it’s time. Arggghh, just one more hour mom?! Please?! Ok, I’m up. It’s 3:15 am and time to get moving. Boots on, hydrate, a breakfast of halva and a bagel, and we’re out of the tent. It is cold, but fairly calm with an amazing display of stars overhead. At 4:00, we set off, making a descending traverse onto the Elliot. Our packs are loaded with a pair of tools each, GU, a couple liters of water, belay jackets, disposable camera, four screws, two pickets, a couple of cams, and a 140’ section of 8.4mm. We’re moving under the LED light of our headlamps, but the horizon is just starting to lighten. After 30 minutes of being UNROPED ON A GLACIER, the impending sunrise has turned the horizon a blazing red/orange and the Hood River, normally undetectable in the low light is glowing with the reflected sunrise making a snaking strip of orange on the otherwise black landscape. We’re moving fairly well, skirting the left edge of the glacier on low angle 20 – 30 degree snow. We cross the shrund easily on the left and move into the real business of the route. It’s fully light now and the fact that I’ve left my sunglasses in the tent occurs to me…Gaper mistake No 3. Goddammit! Sheeeetttfire! Whudafuk?!! I look up contemplating gaper mistake no. 1 and all the rock above me on this route. “Hope I don’t take one in the melon” I think as we climb into the hard 50 degree neve. No step kicking here, the slope is either rock hard or ice below a crust of questionable slab. We’re mixing front pointing with frenching and low dagger with cane. The hard snow makes for quick progress, but the consistency is all over the board and TG voices some concerns about slab dangers, the perfect slide angle of the slope, and the sun. TG is the alpinist in this team, I’m a gaper alpininst and passable rock climber…if he’s slightly concerned, I’m WAY concerned. Loose rock, no helmet, camp on the spur, descending the spur, slabs?, no sunglasses, hose on borrowed bladder frozen solid, what is my problem?!! After starting across the schrund with one tool and one pole each, we soon stop on a small rock outcrop to switch to two tools. We both agree that if someone feels uncomfortable we’ll belay, but on these 50 something degree slopes, we’re both fine and keep moving. Before long, the impending doom thoughts enter my head. Too many mistakes I think…not as fit as I’d like, forgetting things, sun beating on the route and rockfall is certain, no helmet, no glasses, frozen water tube. My biggest concern is the descent down the spur. I’m a Georgia boy, I don’t know shit about snow beyond the basics and all the basics tell me that the spur ain’t gonna be a fun decent with a completely clear sky and blazing sun all day…with my alpinist partner with 20 times the experience I have voicing concerns over possible slabs. By now we can tell that the route is no where near as steep or long as it looks from the approach. What to do? Go fast and get down before it deteriorates? Traverse? Climb the rock rib instead of the gully? “I don’t feel good about it…” And that’s all I needed to say. We start traversing slightly upward and left to the Cooper at about 10k. Snow is again all over the board and we mix a few sugar snow plunges and kicked steps with a whole lotta front pointing and low dagger. All the while we’re cutting loose tiny little slabs, clearly a result of the 15 inches of snow after a many days of sunny weather last week. At one point, on a wide open 40 degree slope I wait as TG traverses ahead as a precaution…no sense in us both getting caught in a slab if it cuts. He exits to a safer zone and I boogie across to join him. I look back for the views and have never seen the sky this clear around Hood. St Helens, Ranier, Adams, Jefferson, and Sisters are all crystal clear. We downclimb facing in for a hundred feet or so and then turn out and walk down the Cooper. Back at the tent by 8:00am. We take our sweet time packing up, with my pack looking like the jalopy from the Beverly Hillbillies…shit flowing over the sides and strapped on everywhere…how the hell does that happen? We didn’t even take much gear. The wind is blowing pretty good and it’s freakin cold. My hands feel like I’m ice climbing, freeze thaw ad infinitum. Soon enough we’re moving on down the spur watching spontaneous rockfall down the western moraine slope of the Elliot and staring straight into the sun. The walk out is uneventful, and our biggest concern is avoiding blisters from our soaked socks. Around noon we hit the vehicles and since the ski area is deserted for the season, I strew gear all over the parking lot. A couple of drags off a bottle of Port, pack the gear and we’re on our separate ways…TG on the long and winding road to Enterprise, and me back to PDX where I caught a two hour nap and headed straight for the Lompoc pub, but not before an apology for being the Uli Gaper on this trip. So many mistakes in so little time…time to lay off the bong I think. All in all a great time, and two gorgeous days in the mountains whatever the final result. After the Lompoc I slept for a good 12 hours, and probably could have slept for another 6 if the van hadn’t turned into a solar oven. In retrospect, I think another plan for doing this route is to wait until the road to Cloud Cap is open, approach from there with no bivy gear, carry over and shuttle around, although conditions might be sketchy on the route itself (with respect to rockfall) by the time the road opens. Cheers!

He's afraid you won't call He's afraid you won't respect him He's afraid of jeopardizing the friendship or maybe: He's afraid of getting his dick pierced by that fat-ass lure you're trolling with

quote: Originally posted by pope: quote:Originally posted by willstrickland: Looks like reason and logic just took the last plane out of SeaTac Please explain, Will.[/QB] "When I contradict myself, I'll let you know" That should explain it. If not, no amount of argument, written, verbal, or otherwise on my part will get my point across. But, anyone who gives a rat's ass about my points needs help anyway so selah...

That's the funniest shit I've seen in a long time! Thanks man!

Maybe if you quit spending your time in the boards, reading all the psychobabble, and did some reading of trip reports, or posted some beta requests, etc you would find it useful. I've received excellent beta on climbs from the Cascades to Red Rocks to the Alaska to the Adirondaks. Ask what you want to know, take half the answers with a huge chunk of rock salt, and distill the info. There is no better place to receive lighting fast replies to beta requests. The inane bullshit on this site is what ensures that people (like me) stay logged in all the time and that in turn gives you quick beta replies. I'm no hard-ass but I've climbed all over the US for the most part, I can tell you about roof cracks in TN, pefect splitters in UT, or OW horrors in CA, easy alpine rock in WY, FA's in OR. Deal or bail, I don't think anyone here gives a shit either way. As Rod would say...have a nice day.

You can get hinged or rigid strap-on cramps that will work with your boots. On the south-side route, it should be more than enough. The problem with a hiking style boot is that they are not rigid at all so some crampons will flex right off the boot when walking. The person outfitting you wherever you rent should be able to make a solid choice for you...just make sure you have those boots in hand when renting the cramps and try them on to insure fit. South side is a hacked-up ladder in season, you won't be front-pointing up anything, and there's nothing resembling steep on the route...maybe 30 deg 35 tops.

quote: Originally posted by sk: Depends on the tip your planning to leave Sorry, I've been circ'ed no spare tip material to leave behind.

quote: Originally posted by bellemontagne:

Man, we've had some looong threads on beer. My faves: Porter: Lucky Lab's Stumptown, Sam Smith's Taddy Scotch Ale: Pike Kilt Lifter Stout: Sam Smith's Oatmeal, Rogue Shakespear Barley Wine: TG's private stash...best damn barley wine I've had and I'm a BW fan IPA: not a big fan, but Term Gravity hits the spot Pub syle ale: Boddingtons ESB: Bridgeport, Fuller's Brown: Old Peculiar American pisswater mass produced swill: PBR [ 05-09-2002, 02:20 PM: Message edited by: willstrickland ]

Preachin to the choir honey...I'm the proud owner of a '63 Harley panhead, brown metallic, filled seams, teardrop tank, suicide-shifter. Actually go this as a college graduation present from my uncle, who's birthday I share. Got pics of me as a 5 year old on the back of that bike. Also got pics of me, my dad, and uncle rebuilding the engine in 1978 with cans of PBR everywhere. [ 05-09-2002, 01:45 PM: Message edited by: willstrickland ]

Budweiser? That's not beer...that's horse piss. Why you think they keep all those clydesdales around? Uggghhh. I'll take the PBR and Harley, you take the Bud and Camaro.