willstrickland

EDIT:All set, thanks for the help.

I asked this in another thread and got no response so: One question: Would it be possible to use another fuel canister with these? It looks like sizing is made specifically so the windscreen thing rests on the canister for stability. Would using a larger canister, or another brand of canister cause problems with fit of the windscreen etc?

Damn Jon!

The soloist was Dave Turner AFAIK. I think they just dropped him a rope and let him jug out, as he was only a couple of pitches from topping out on Tempest.

I have a blunted chisel, around 3/8", a small double brush the size of a toothbrush that has wire bristles on one side and nylon on the other, a medium punch blunted to where it's rounded instead of sharp pointed, and a sharp punch to clean deadheads. The blunted punch is key. Without it, you are relying on the chisel blade which is too wide to be effective in really pasting (after you "x") and the corners are too sharp/narrow to use as something less wide than the entire blade (seems like the corner cuts the head more than pasting it in). I cannot imagine being able to effectively place anything smaller than a #4 with the back of your hammer or a LA. Here's what I do: Clean out the placement as well as you can. Try to find a spot in the groove that constricts at the bottom (so the head can act sorta like a stopper)and has alot of texture. After I "x" it into place, and do the intial pin/paste of the sides with the chisel, I take the dull punch and really paste the edges and center, moving from the center outward in an alternating pattern. When I've tried to just use the chisel, and had one rip, it usually was because the back center of the head didn't get pasted flat enough to fully contact the rock. I've placed #0s that I could not rip with two people bouncing on them, and placed perfect looking #3s that ripped right after I got on them. At first, I tried to approach heading like it was this delicate procedure. Then I realized to get the things pasted and really molded to the rock, you gotta whale on them in the center and be more careful at the top and bottom. "Rock" them after you paste to see if they rotate at all. Then bounce test the s&*% out of them. Before I ever placed one on lead, I had done at least 3 multi-hour practice sessions in the talus fields.

I spend 6 mos/yr driving on snow/ice. If you live where it gets really cold: Switch to 5W-30 when the high temps are only hitting 30F and lows below 0F. With the 4-EAT automatic in a Suby, a tranny pan heater (in addition to your block heater, oil pan heater, and batt blanket/or trickly charger) is essential if you want it to shift past 2nd gear anytime before the 6th mile of the drive. A regular AWD Legacy Wagon with 100lb of sandbag in the cargo area is the single best slick/icy/snowy road vehicle I've driven. Way better than any SUV unless you are off road or in deep snow or something. Delfating the tires will increase surface area and possibly get you out of a stuck spot. Put a come-a-long strap winch, a shovel, and 100lb of kitty liter or sand or something in trunk. Keep a sleeping bag, some bars, a canister stove, lighter and water in the car all winter. Oh yeah, stop watching the aurora and look out for MOOSE!!

Buhbye kid, welcome to banned camp.

Hell yeah! F-U Yankees

So I just looked at the Mass regs and they have shotgun, archery, and muzzleloader for deer, no regular centerfire rifle season. I don't know about Mass, but there have been some large B&C and P&Y scored whitetails come out of upstate NY. It's not a consistent trophy producer like the upper midwest, southeast, or Saskatchewan. Check out this one, the Mass typical record 193 3/8 Boone and Crockett score taken in 2002. Thing had a 25" inside spread:

Scott, are you aware that there are a few states where you can ONLY hunt deer with shotguns? New Jersey is one I believe, Illinois (if I recall right, I didn't deer hunt there, only pehasant) is another.

Another hapless victim of the_N0dder

Hey, didn't like Toronto and another canyuker team play an outside game last season, or maybe the season before? That's Real potential for some whiteout hockey there.

Suddenly cracked baby wants to talk about ethics.

But, but...uhh, but, they're both Libruls! Yeah yeah! And Kilborn was the orginal host of the Daily Show, so really it's all the same. Yeah. Damn libruls destroyin our Murcan democracy.

Dude, by the time you finish that master's some guy named Punjab Rangool will be doing the job you thought you would get, in India, for $8k a year. You'll spend a couple of years post grad working throwaway part time jobs and climbing while looking for that career spot. Then one day you'll see it's a losing proposition and go to massage school, where like Polish Bob, you make your money by giving the "happy finish" to balding middle aged men.

Bump. Anyone get out there and survey the damage yet? Pics? Any other word from Superpoo?

Fiddler on the Roof was given 13+ and is still unrepeated AFAIK. What about the Nose, didn't Burke and Yuji say the crux on that thing was .14 something. Did the Diheral wall have a .14 pitch?

Other 4?

Be wary of those piezo ignitions (in general). They are notorious for failure. I would definitely carry a lighter as a precaution. One question: Would it be possible to use another fuel canister with these? It looks like sizing is made specifically so the windscreen thing rests on the canister for stability. Would using a larger, or another brand of canister cause problems with fit etc?

The weight of your footwear is, IMO, a HUGE factor. The difference between Invernos with steel poons, and Trango S with aluminum poons is like night and day. Mindset is everything. Favorite light gear: Trango superfly biners Mammut 8mm dyneema slings 9.4 single ropes w/ 6 ot 7mm companion line Sportiva Trango Extreme/Trango S boots Methods: A shovel for a cave is the lightest bomber shelter for a team of 3. Don't underestimate the psychological boost that something like shake-n-warms can give you. They are "extra weight" sure, but the pysch factor can make up for the 1oz quickly.

Preventative measures work best. The problem for me is more that the dirt and funk in the shoe makes it slippery on the inside once your foot sweats a little. There's nothing quite like edging onto a tiny chip and having your foot move/slide around inside the shoe. If you are cragging, just carry an old washcloth and some rubbing alcohol, and clean the feet really well before you put the shoes on. It works great because you are getting rid of the skin oils, dirt, and some bacteria that would otherwise get into the shoe. And having a dry/oil free foot a clean shoe really makes a difference in how the shoe feels on precise edging stuff. And while you have the alcohol, clean the hands too. Get rid of that sunscreen residue, skin oils, etc. Other than making the holds feel less slippery, cleaning them with alcohol also makes tape stick better. If you are doing to long approach/alpine rock thing, carry some pre-packaged med alcohol preps in the little foil packs.

Thrill, you are exactly right. It's about people feeling like they are getting ripped off. But these are not new complaints. See this thread: PRG Rant I started that thread years ago, and spoke with Gary after someone called it to his attention. He was not happy about what I wrote (understandably so, I was slamming his business), but I had 10-15 regulars at the gym tell me they felt the same way and thanks for speaking out. Gary is a nice enough guy, we had a respectful conversation about it and I learned some things about the nuts and bolts of running a rock gym. I have no doubt that he is a stand up guy on a personal level. But the bottom line is, when your customer feels like they are getting taken advantage of, or screwed over, you are courting disaster. I continued to train at the PRG when I lived there because the alternatives were either a pain to get to from SE (StoneWorks) or a pain to get to and more pricey (Club Sport). That is why I say someone should open their own gym. People have complained about the business practices for years and they haven't changed, the prices have gotten even further out of line with the market since they moved into the new building. So I'm not saying "put up or shut up", I'm saying to face the reality that things are not going to change so if you want something different you will have to find or build another gym.

That crack pipe is harsh mistress eh Dick? I can only speculate that your third grade writing ability is a result of fetal alcohol syndrome. But hang in there little buddy. One day, with practice and training, you too will be able to communicate with the grown-ups. Chin up little buddy, chin up.

I had a pair of what you have in the pic there. Those are not regular Kaukulators, they are the Kaukulator Dru model. The first Kauks were blue, the second gen were that brown color. So imagine that shoe in the pic, but with a regular smooth rock shoe sole, and you have the reg Kauk. They replaced it with the Mega. The midsole in the megas and the focus breaks down too easily IMO. My pair of focus were fried after the first resole. As far as the Drus, I hated mine. I was using them as an aid route shoe, and they weren't comfy enough for long aid routes (probably because I tried to fit them tight enough to climb decently), nor did they climb well enough to make up for it. A compromise shoe that didn't do anything worth a shit. The upper/fit is exactly the same as the reg Kaukulator.