willstrickland

Alex, that is not exactly true. Robbins set out to chop a heavily bolted Harding line (Wall of Early Morning Light if I recall correctly). After chopping a couple of pitches, he changed his mind and finished the climb leaving the bolts. Here is a very interesting paper on the controversy of a rap bolted line on El Gigante (the Mexican version of El Cap). It is primarily a bunch of climbers from around the world weighing in on whether the route should have been estalished and whether it should be chopped. READ THIS El Gigante Controversy Notice Royal Robbins's reply on page 10.

Kinky! Can I really?

I just wanted to relay an important messasge from our President: "My fellow 'murcans. We're goin' to MARS BITCH!! Wheeeeeee! " - Chimperor McBullshit

Normally, I would never suggest that anyone watch Faux News...HOWEVER, it has come to my attention that Bill O'Reilly has the Chimperor on his show airing sometime soon. Now it has also come to my attention that Bush, when asked by O'Reilly whether he would go back and repeat the "mission accomplished" stunt said "absolutely". At that time around 150 soliders had died. Over 900 US soldiers have been killed since that little PR stunt. Normally O'Reilly is a douchebag supreme, and I haven't seen this interview, but it sounds like worthwhile viewing. Oh the irony if a Faux News interview is the straw that broke the chimps back. WTF was the Shrub thinking? Oh yeah, he doesn't think. Remember, he couldn't think of a single mistake he'd made as president. Unbelievable. Mission accomplished eh? Tell that to my friend Lance who was back door drafted into this quagmire while his wife and 2 yr old wait for him to come home. FUCK YOU GEORGE, WE ARE NOT SAFER NO MATTER HOW MANY TIMES YOU REPEAT THE TALKING POINT. We're goin' to MARS BITCH wheeeeeee!!!! And btw Shuldt, Michael Moore is a douchebag on par with O'Reilly.

"In addition to the SRC program, the Temporary Road Costs (TRC)program provides a direct subsidy to the timber industry. As part of this program, the estimated cost of building so-called temporary roads, or roads that will not become part of the Forest Service's permanent road network, is deducted from the appraised price of timber. According to an analysis of 104 national forests, Temporary Road Costs applied between FY 1998 and FY 2001 resulted in taxpayer losses exceeding $14 million" More on the Forest Dis-service's mismanagement at: http://www.taxpayer.net/forest/lostintheforest/executivesummary.htm

No Fee Demo!

A.

Let me weigh in here, since I have nothing else to do up here in the 6 month winter except XC, and we have a huge XC community and trail system. 3 pin boots are outdated shit. Skate skis are a little skinnier, and quite a bit shorter. The rule of thumb for length of regular XC skis is: Stand them on end in front of you and they should come to your wrist when you extend your arm over your head. Skate skis will be around 2ft shorter and about 1/2-2/3 the width. Skating on classic gear is tough and a little awkward, but I do it to mix up the ski a little and also when on groomers while passing someone going in the other direction...you jump out of the trough and if you don't start skating, you gonna bust your ass. I also skate my classics on downhill turns and short uphills. Skate boots and bindings are NOT specific to skating. I use the same boots and binding system on both my skate and classic skis, with a slightly different binding (same attachement though..basically a bar in the toe). The racing gear is obviously highly tweaked and specialized, but the attachment system is still the same. You can ski in the classic style (i.e. stride) on skate gear. You are NOT stuck with only skiing the groomers, but it's not the best tool for the job. I regularly skate ski a 6 mile loop that has 4 miles groomed, then 2 miles of single track trough through trees. I skate the groomed section, stride the ungroomed. In some ways, the shorter length of the skates are better because of the treed sections. Waxless skis (i.e. with "scales") still need waxing (glide wax), you just don't need to put kick wax on them. I wax my "waxless" skiis about every other week. In certain conditions, they are better than waxless. (As Dryad says above. In slightly slushy borderline freezing temps, they are probably the best choice). Waxing for racing is practically an art. It's amazing to watch the guys doing all this temp assessment and using combinations of different waxes, preparing several sets of skis waxed differently to be ready for potential condition changes before race time. The team up here is pretty competitive in the NCAA and seeing them race is awesome. My classics are waxless. I've never seen a waxless skate ski. Used is for sure the way to go for classic gear. And if the nordic community is big enough, for skate gear as well. I got a sweet skate set-up from one of the dudes on the Univ team that was used one season for $100. Got classic skis/bindings for $25 at Play it Again.

Actually Dru, I don't think the Snow Lakes area needs to add anything to comply. The fact that the tool patrols in order to ticket would satisfy the "security" element, and the large flat boulders on the river side of the lot could be designated as an "eating area" by placing a sign on the kiosk that states as much. So basically anywhere they determine might be a revenue generator, look for the installation of a pit toilet, trash can, picnic table and sign. I don't believe for a minute that they will leave the undeveloped parking areas at trailheads and the like undeveloped if they sense the possibility of a revenue source. Keep up the fight, because this is not a done deal. Currently the Fee Demo extension ends at the end of 2005. The article above is focused mainly on the House committee's version of a bill to make it permanent. This still has to get on the agenda for a house vote, and then we will see what the Senate does with it. After that, there would be a joint markup session and assuming they can come to consensus, the amended bill would go forward for a vote. (Hey, I watched SchoolHouse Rock..."I'm just a bill on capitol hill!") I don't think, with a republican senate, that it will pass. Keep writing letters, and stay informed. I've written 9 letters to congresspeople in the last 3 years on this issue. That's not a lot of work, but WHAT HAVE YOU DONE ABOUT IT? Five minutes, write a letter. Silver's site probably even has some kind of pre-formated talking points or petition or something.

On overhanging or traversing pitches, I'm typically cleaning with a Gri-gri used as a bottom ascender (not to be confused with using 2 jugs and a gri-gri backup). It is a little slower than two jugs, but immensely easier to clean tensioned pieces and for me, faster overall. I will tie in short before a traversing section, or if there is a big ledge below me or complicated manuever or something. Otherwise I usually tie in short twice per pitch, eight on a bight to a locker. I let the accumulation of fear be my guide of when to tie in short. And, sometimes I will tie in short more often simply to manage the rope better (instead of having a 60ft loop hanging down to snag stuff). You could always use a rope bag on your harness to stuff the rope as you ascend if snagging or trundling is a real problem. Like Tex, I am always tied into the end of the rope with the rare exception of a long lower-out where you don't have enough rope for a duecey, you don't want to kamikaze swing, and you don't have an extra rope to rap. (and I tie in short then anyway). If it's less than vertical and straight up, I'm on two jugs instead of a jug/gri-gri combo and I probably only tie in short once or not at all. So the non-answer to your question...it depends.

Easy bulldog. I'm not advocating that stance. You should be well aware of my pesonal feelings on the issue. I am just speculating on what I see as the likely scenario, and looking to construct a means for MattP to voice his personal take on the issue of power drilling in wilderness.

MattP, try it like this: "I feel that advocating a rigid "stance" on the issue, through the WCC, would be counterproductive. Each cirucmstance is unique, and unique circumstances call for unique solutions. We strive to work with the land managers to reach reasonable solutions in each case, and a "set" position would not work toward convincing those managers that we are open and flexible with respect to solutions. My PERSONAL view is...blah blah blah...but since I seek to represent all climbers, that is not necessarily the position I take to the table while in a representative role" I'm not trying to put words in your mouth, but I think this may be a way to get your own view out there without the specter of compromising your flexibility. I really just want to hear your personal take on it. You say "I'll discuss real issues"...so go ahead.

Post deleted by WS.

Glen, I tried DC...lasted about 3 months. It fucking sucks. And I'm from the east coast, so it wasn't the culture shock that got me. Gunks, about 5 1/2 hrs, but really anywhere from 5-8 hrs depending on how fast you drive/traffic. Seneca is about 4 hrs. The New River Gorge is about 5 1/2. Long drive, but it's one of the best cragging areas in the country, easily. For local stuff, all you really have is Carderrock/Great Falls (which is the slipperiest, POS crag I've ever been to) but you know that already. There is also some bolted riverside choss a little NW of the city. There is really good Mtn biking in both WVA and southwest VA (Blacksburg area has good stuff and WVA is full of good mtn biking). Unless your idea of fun is sky-high real-estate prices, horrendous traffic, suburban hell-sprawl, rainy and cold winters, paralyzing hot and humid summers, and aggro people....avoid DC. I have a few friends from college living there and some family there as well. Every time I visit I remember why I bailed. If you are playing the political power broker game, or attending UM or G-town, I would consider it, otherwise no way in hell.

The USFS did not take on the "installation" issue because outside the Sawtooth Wilderness, they have reverted to a policy that once again allows the use of fixed anchors. The AAC has some good info. Here's a good link http://www.americanalpineclub.org/docs/About_History_2004.pdf

When in doubt, heel hook!

If you get tired on the "Mega" traverse, just sit down for a quick rest:

Geocities is an unreliable POS. But here's the chica anyway:

Plane ticket to Kabul: $1147 Desert Fatigues: $89 Payoff for local warlords: $5500 Rent for your private prison: $2061 Finding out Rumsfeld sold you down the river: Priceless!

Hey Rob, wanna go climbing? And it was an onsight baby!

Foster Falls, TN - "Launch Pad" Even if you can't see any wasps on the nest from the ground, does not mean there are none on it. Climbing directly over a red wasps' nest, I highstepped to a hold just above the nest and promply got stung in the ass, thigh, and pretty damn close to the boys. Climbing through wasps nest is....SOFA KING WE TODD IT.

All these name calling pissing contests got me to thinking. I've been in some pretty dumb situations climbing that I got away with, those fabled bad decisions that make up "experience" that leads to good decisions. For example: 1. Many years ago, on one of the first sport routes I led, I arrived at the anchors and clipped in with a daisy and locker. I cranked down the screw-gate and hung off the anchor to untie/thread the chains. With my rap now set-up, I tried to remove the locker. It was stuck. I couldn't budge the fahqer. After 45 minutes hanging there cursing and hacking at this bitch with a rock, I managed to borrow a leatherman off a passing climber and unscrewed the gate, arriving back on the deck as the sun set. Lesson: Loading a fully screwed down locker and expecting to be able to open it is STUPID. 2. On a last minute plan to climb a route on Hood w/ TG, I forgot my helmet, which I realized as we reached the base of the NF. Unpacking my pack I realized my water bladder was leaking like a sieve. We got up early and started climbing anyway. Halfway up the initial 300ft snow slope, I dropped a glove. I went down and retrieved it. About 200ft above the shrund, I realized I'd let the hose on the second bladder (borrowed from well prepared partner) freeze and couldn't get any water to flow. Half an hour later the sun rose and I realized I'd left my sunglasses in the tent. Lesson: Keep your mind on the climbing and don't make mulitple mistakes. GAPE-FEST! 3. Attempting to solo Desert Shield in Zion, in SUMMER, I wasn't paying enough attention to water/food intake. After cleaning and hauling the second pitch, I puked all over my anchor and legs. After leading and cleaning half the third pitch I spent 30 minutes alternating between dry heaving and screaming in pain because the cramps in my bi's and quads were so bad. I was so frustrated when I reached the anchors I wanted to cry. Wisely (?) I bailed and didn't move more than about 6 feet from the spot I hit the ground for a day and a half. Lesson: Climbing in Zion in the summer is STUPID. Not staying hydrated and fed is STUPID. 4. In Tallulah Gorge, GA. A multi-pitch crag with a ledge system along it's base. I'd been there maybe 3 times previous. A cc.com'er was on business in the SE and we hooked up for a day. After climbing our main objective, we walked farther down the crag for some one pitch stuff. We left our headlamps in our packs at the base of the main objective since it was on our way out. Pretty soon it was dark and I had just started following the last pitch of the day. We rapped from the top (he might even have lowered me, I don't recall). Anyway, as we got back to the base it was pitch black. We couldn't find the passage through the ledge system that led back to our packs and the trail out. This was "my" area, and I could not find the right connection. I was ready to descend (read: bushwack through sketchy cliff bands and gnarly rhododendron) to the river , schwack a mile up river to a footbridge/hiking trail, ascend out of the gorge, walk back down the approach trail, get our packs , then re-ascend this ass-kicking steep trail back out of the gorge. All the while, we were (by park regulations) supposed to be out by sunset and had to secure a free day-use climbing permit...so I knew the rangers would be waiting for us and/or preparing to mount a rescue. Luckily, Matt meandered across a ledge and around a corner to check it out and found the connection. We reached the packs, donned out headlamps and found an angry ranger waiting for us in the parking lot. He had already started calling his SAR team to be on standby. I told some lies about stuck rap ropes and he let us go after a lecture. Lesson: Take your headlamp when it's getting dark. Climbing in an unfamiliar area with a sketchy approach/descent, in fading light, without your headlamp...if FUCKING STUPID. I'm sure there are plenty more of those, but I have work to do...

99.44%

So this is the Boulder Creek Wilderness or something like that?(seems like that's what the sign on the trail said). By illegal, do you mean power-drilled, or simply drilled when the fixed anchor ban / interpretation of anchor as a prohibited "fixture or installation" was being advocated by the USFS?