willstrickland

C'mon dude, maybe you need more examples: 1. Tim Russert confirmed today that they met backstage at his show, "met, shook hands, and exchanged pleasantries". 2. Cheney met him again at the swearing in of new Senators when new NC Senator Liz Dole was sworn in. There is footage of this as well. Cheney's strategy was to tell so many lies that Edwards couldn't possibly refute them all...and it worked. Cheney used the line "Now, in my capacity as vice president, I am the president of Senate, the presiding officer. I'm up in the Senate most Tuesdays when they're in session." BULLSHIT! Complete bullshit. I looked at the presiding officer list for the Tues Senate sessions since B/C took office. And how many did Cheny preside over? In 2001 - NONE (although ironically enough, Edwards presided on one of those dates) In 2002 - Once In 2003 - Once In 2004 - NONE The only Tues Senate sessions he presided over in this entire term was 11/12/02, and 1/07/03. Fucker can sit there an lie and everyone just takes good 'ol Uncle Dick at his word. The American people got served. Edited: I missed one, 1/7/03...a shocking ommission of 50% since he only presided over two sessions.

Chipping, retrobolting, bolts next to cracks, and bolted-on gym holds are now, and have always been, unacceptable. There are obvious exceptions in the retro and bolts next to cracks categories. The instances at Dishman are not among them. Understanding works both ways, and from the interactions I've seen on this specific matter, the parties reposnsible for the retro/chip jobs do not understand or are not willing to concede that these practices are unacceptable to 90 plus percent of the climbing community, and more importantly not acceptable to the land manager. The arguments have been heard and they are this: 1. It's too inconvenient to take a couple of pieces of gear to pro a crack, we want to just carry some draws for afterwork clippin. 2. Nobody could climb the route without this (fill in the blank: chipped hold, gym hold). Convenience and laziness is not an excuse to flaunt the wishes of the land manager and the majority of the user group. What is physically possible is not for those unable to accomplish something to determine. It is impossible for me to run a 4 minute mile, does that make it impossible for everyone else? Should we shorten the track so I can run it in 4? I have seen plenty of "impossible" boulder problems sit idle for a decade only to be unlocked by a 17 yr old mutant. What purpose does a bolt you can clip two moves off the ground serve? Your ridiculous incantations of Bush and the religious right are not helping your argument. In fact, they are revealing you to be a disingenuous ranter. Good day.

All things considered, I thought Cheney eeked out a slight victory to the avg voter. If you didn't know the background behind the bullshit he was pushing, he would have sounded like the winner. I didn't watch it though, I listened on radio, so I don't know how the visuals played in. The REAL winner of this was Gwen Iffil with the bitch slap she put on Dick after the 30 seconds comment "well that's all you got". Shazam! But Gwen did botch some of the mechanicals of the thing so she's a loser too. I declare the winner to be all the stupid ass pundits who get paid to spout bullshit on tv shows after politcal events such as this.

Hey Cracked, better get that selective service registration in pal, four more years of these clowns and it'll be PFC Cracked in about 2006.

Dick Cheney: "I'd never met you until tonight" That's funny Dick..... Cheney is a more capable and competent man, but his policies are so fucked up he's evil incarnate. I'll give him this: He can lie through his teeth and sound calm and convincing. The guy sat there and told the bald faced LIE that he's not been making speeches tying Iraq to 9/11. And remember, vote for them or we're all GONNA DIE!!!

Best IPA on the planet. Maybe TG can give you a contact for his distributor up there and they can turn you onto the pubs carrying it.

Gotcha. I think an important factor is that the end loops are not stiched the same way the pockets are, they are stiched much more heavily and more like a sewn sling. I.e. they are full strength. If you can blow the stiching on the end pocket...which is what would have to happen for this scenario to play out, then you would also have blown apart a normal sewn sling. If you can do that, you're toofahking fat, so loose some weight beyotch. I am always backed up w/ the rope anyway. And I really don't see how you could even hope to generate enough force to rip the end loop tacking without taking a full length factor 2 onto the daisy.

This doesn't make sense to me. If you have clipped the end loop, and DON'T unclip it, but then clip an intermediate loop into the same biner as well...now having two non-adjacent loops clipped...how would it fail? The only way I can conceptualize this happening is if you clip two adjacent loops into the same biner, where you are then relying purely on the stitching between those two loops as your lifeline. I anchor in with a spectra daisy all the time (in addition to the rope) and I routinely shorten it by clipping off another loop. As long as the end loop stays clipped and you don't clip the adjacent one, there is no issue. Worst case is you zipper pockets until you reach the end loop at which point you have a weaker sewn-sling type configuration going on. Hell even if that blows out, you've got the rope into the anchor.

Three words: Divider, not uniter.

Burt's pissed dude.

The Bloom book is the shizz. The Cornacchione (sp?) guide or even the Falcon Utah guide will have more stuff than you can climb. Website: try climbingmoab.com Of course you will want to do the uber classic 5 star, everyone and their grandma has climbed them except you: Supercrack 9+ Incredible Handcrack 10 The Wave 10 Generic Crack 9 Chocolate Corner 10a Battle of the Bulge 11 Coyne Crack simulator 11 You could easily just walk up to Supercrack Buttress and take your pick of lines from 9 to 12+. Blue Gramma cliff faces more south than any other cliff I can think of down there, so it's a good cold weather option. Supercrack Butt faces W/SW and the left side of Donnelly faces S. as well. In the area, in Castle Valley, mostly 4 pitch towers: Kor-Ingalls 9+ (on Castleton) North Chimney 9 (Castleton) Jah Man 10 (on Sister Superior) Fine Jade 11- (on the Rectory and very nice) And you might as well go over to the Fishers and do Ancient Art 11- or 8 A0. You won't forget the summit pitch on that one for a long time. The crux section is only about 15ft of face climbing/pebble pinching. If it were me, I'd tick the classics at Supercrack Butt, then hit the towers.

Mike, the Rogue Alehouse is in your area, and IMO has the best beer in town. Also the Kingston Pub on W. Burnside has some pretty damn good biscuits n gravy. It's also pretty hard to beat Miser Mondays at the Lucky Lab in SE...pitchers of good shizz for like $6.50 or something. And when you're in that PBR mood, the Jolly Inn *(not to be confused w/ Jolly Roger) has 32oz buckets for like $2 or something. Shanghi tunnel, Hung Far Low, Tugboat, are all not too far away in oldtown. But for you, I think the best place is really gonna be Mary's.

Ringlers Annex is the one I'm talking about. They have some snooker tables in there in addition to regular pool tables. Free pool alot of the time too. And as I recall, free pool during the free bluegrass on Sun.

Don't know if they still do it but: Dahlia on Weds at Ohm (hard to classify Dahlia, but I don't know anyone who's disliked seeing them) and the funky organ trio (name anyone?) on Tues at the Goodfoot. Also used to be free bluegrass on Sun afternoon at the McMinimans joint on W Burnside (can't even remember the name, down around 14th or so, on the S. side...has several pooltables).

The Trusties spend all their monthly disbursement on nugs or what?

A line of bolts spaced close enough together that you can reach the next one while standing in aiders attached to the previous one. There is nothing special about it, nothing that makes it a "ladder" it's just a term for a series of bolts in blank rock, spaced about 6ft apart, give or take. You climb it by std aid climbing method, or if they are close enough together, you could french-free from bolt to bolt. There are bolt ladders on several aid routes in the PNW.The last few pitches of Town Crier at Index come to mind.

In Hillsboro there is a bakery outlet next to the WinCo, as well as a tobacco outlet (all three in same strip mall), and a Grocery Outlet about 5 blocks down the street. If you are living in the Pearl now, you could dumpster dive the Whole Foods near W. Burnside. Best mexican food (and best deal too) in the PDX area is the Ochoa Taqueria near the Hillsboro stuff I listed above.

OMFG!!!! You have to see this: http://www.pleasurecaptains.com/favor/howsmall.html Devastating! This sums up in 1 minute everything you need to see about how Bush did in the first debate.

When I was born, Carter was Governor of my "two-bit backwater" state as Greg put it. He attended Georgia Tech and then graduated from the US Naval Academy. He then served for seven years as a naval officer on a submarine, and during that time did graduate studies in Nuclear Physics at Union College. He moved back to GA and farmed while getting into state politics. After 8 years in various roles including the State Senate, he ran for Governor and won. After serving a term as Governor, where he concurrently acted as chair of several regional school and economic development commissions, he ran for President, beating Ford. Now compare: A military academy grad who served for 7 years as an officer, grauate studies in nuclear physics, sucessful in one of the toughest businesses around (family farmer), 12 years in state politics including a governorship that actually has power to An AWOL coke head alcoholic, who can't even pronounce "nuclear" much less understand the physics behind it, who failed in every business venture he tried, and held a ceremonial post as Gov of Tejas. Mars, bitch! And don't forget Poland.

Fair enough. I could cite plenty of counter examples where backpackers and fisherman have complained about bolts to me. I've run into plenty of recreationalists who enjoy seeing the climbers "in action" but never any who liked seeing the bolts.

I gotta call you out on this one. First, the only person you will find that does not agree with the aesthetic damage argument are the clippers! Subjective? Hardly. Any other land user is going to call those what they are...an eyesore. A random bolt here and there, probably never noticed by most, but line after line of shiny steel...yes they are going to notice. What makes you think that CLIMBERS are the majority? A big part of my entire argument is that sport bolting and the attendant aesthetic damage will eventually endanger our access. All of us, sport, trad, boulderers, mixed climbers. I couldn't care less about some roadside choss like Ex38. It sets a precedent among those introduced to the sport at such areas, but beyond that I don't care. But when there are multi-use areas where hikers, fisherman, photographers, or whoever recreate, a shiny line of steel is going to cause them to have a poor perception of our "community". I think land managers who are not climbers will feel the same way. "Bolts are an eyesore and permanent, snowmobiles are loud and temporary." That is a very real perception of many land managers. Having some areas set aside for sport climbing, in the outdoor climbing gym fashion...I have no issue with that assuming it is in the "right" place...such as 38. However, we run a serious risk of endangering our continued access or ability to place ANY bolts whether for rap anchors or belays or to pro the runout slabs, if we don't limit these types of routes to certain areas.

Jon, try this one from factcheck. http://www.factcheck.org/article.aspx?docid=231 It also contains the supportnig documentation as pdfs on the right side of the page. But, the article itself is probably detailed enough. It examines the claims and evidence from both sides of the story. factcheck is one of the better de-bunker non-partisan sites I've found.

I just PM'ed this to Szy, but since Dru brings it up here's what he (one of the FFA party) said (excerpt) As Victor correctly points out, when the first ascent was done there was a fixed pin in place - it was actually there for Damnation Crack, but we did reach over and clip it, and it protected what was otherwise a very dangerous runout. I believe the guiding principle for replacing fixed gear on an existing climb should be to maintain the state of the climb as the first ascentionists found it; for instance, replacing bolts that were reliable but have since become rusty. Or, replacing fixed pins that have fallen out. In the latter case, a bolt may be a better choice since a replaced pin will just fall out again eventually, and the rock gets beat out a little more each time. So, I would say that adding one bolt to DDD, at the same level as the original fixed pin (even with the bulge at the end of the initial crack on Damnation) would be perfectly appropriate. Ideally it should be further out left on the wall, since the original fixed piece was an awkward reach right to clip and would be too close to Damnation Crack, which really doesn’t need a bolt. As for the second bolt... well, I did think that the route was otherwise adequately protected - if just barely - with nuts. The start requires stepping above small, insecure wires until you reach the (missing) fixed pin, but that’s part of the charm of the route. I remember stepping up and down a bunch of times working out moves, too scared to fall on the tiny wires below me; as a sport route it would be a completely different experience. To the folks who chopped the bolts, I do appreciate your efforts to maintain traditional cragging values at what has always been a trad crag. And, you filled the scars with epoxy and rock chips, right? But I do think the addition of one bolt to replace the missing fixed pin would be perfectly reasonable.