willstrickland

Going to do the Rainbow in Feb. Wondering what I need on the pin rack for insurance. Anybody been up it recently. Reg route and/or Desert Solitaire

quote: Originally posted by W: I think RURP with only a dozen posts is the funniest person here. It's either RURP or Shlongenshmecker. This is Will. Maybe, but they're both avatars. You know what a rurp is these days? virtually useless unless you like scaring the crap out of yourself...Pika Auk cam beaks baby, that's all I'm sayin. Will has spoken. So let it be written, so let it be done.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: yeah j tree! if you dont place a #4 camalot on route you will place it for the anchor! If you do anything on the Blue Nubian formation that's exactly the case...no anchors on top, the only crack will take a 3.5 and 4 and you still need some creative use of slings to make it happen. That said, the climb "Blue Nubian" on that formation is cool, fingers and thin fingers through the crux to steep hands. Looked like it hadn't been climbed in years when I did it.

quote: Originally posted by nolanr: The only real musicians play accoustic Hahahahhahhaa! What a crock of shit. I love bluegrass and other acoustic based music, but you wanna tell me that Hendrix, Garcia, Clapton, Page, Charlie Hunter, Wes Montgomery, Pat Metheny, Joe Pass, Jim Hall, Gilmour, Keith Richards, Fogerty, Springsteen, Navarro, Van Halen, Allman, Anastasio...and on and on and on aren't "real" musicians? Go buy a clue, you don't seem to have one

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: Um, there was that one famous soloist who went to do the Steck-Salathe on the Sentinal and never came back...but I can't remember his name. He is the guy in the one picture soloing 5.13 or something and drinking a beer...you know that one!? --was it Derek Hersey???? Yeah, that was Derek, dude was in the league of Croft/Potter/Bachar soloing, put up "To Rp or not to Be" in Eldo, which is still unrepeated to the best of my knowledge...5.12X. Derek was a Brit expat, and everyone knows the Brits push trad climbing standards...even so, he tried to get quite a few visiting countrymen to give it a shot but they all declined...that might give you an indication of the seriousness of that climb...that and the fact that it's right outside Boudler, home of tons of hardmen and women and it's unrepeated, only American hope I can see repeating it is the Tim Kemple/Peter Vintoniv partnership. But it's Verm in that pic as far as I know, route called Ring of the Lords or something, I haven't seen that picture in long time.

quote: Originally posted by monkeyboy: Probably end up with socks too though. Oh well, better than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick. Man, I actually ASKED for socks. Better to have the 'rents kicking down $16 a pair for smartwools than me doing it.

Erik, You see, since we (you and I) are poor, creativity is key. Creative dates require a woman who's not afraid of a little uncertainty and isn't reserved or shy...if she's a wallflower you might be better off going with the standard fare crap... First dates are awkward as hell unless you've known each other a long time anyway, so your looking for something that will allow you both to let your guard down a little, laugh, and focus on something other than how nervous you both feel about the date. If she puffs, your job just became REAL easy. While these may be standard fare, they aren't the dinner and a movie crap and fairly cheap: Bowling: Plenty of laughs to be had, you've got a focus, cheap beer readily available, you can bond by busting on the "real" bowlers A play, comedy, or other live performance: Women somehow love even bad plays, gets you out of the standard fare boat, provides a focus, can be pricey though and maybe a problem to find something this late. Soemthing with a holiday theme will get you bonus points. Caroling, buying toys for needy kids, making/drinking eggnog, making ornanments: Again, the holiday theme shit wins you bonus. One of the coolest dates I had was going to a huge toy store to buy a couple of gifts, one for my niece and one for the "toys for tots" needy kids thing and then geeting loaded on eggnog. This will win you HUGE points...if you're at all interested in kids she might as well drop trou right there. Plus, roaming around the toy store is fun, reminiscing about the toys you had as a kid, etc. Caroling is a risky deal though, she's gotta be inclined toward that stuff and you need to have a good voice and be able to harmonize in key. Or, you could do what I do. Go see some live music, rip bong loads before hand, get jiggy wid it, go puff some bowls, hang out...if she's not down with that wer're not going to work out anyway so might as well find out early, I'm getting too old to be wasting time on a mismatch

Raven blems at northernmountain.com for $65 with grip, $57 without the grip

She said she'd tried them (Alphas) in her initial post and, since she's in Minnesota, a virtual meat locker, plastics seem to be the ticket for warm feet. It sounds like we have similar shaped feet...narrow heel, wide forefoot, low volume. I eventually started using a different companies inner boot(Lowa) in the inverno shells, but a friend's mutt decided to have those for dinner. Now I've actually got brand new invernos because the damn sole came completely off of one boot, not started peeling away, but dropped completely off! Must have been too humid during gluing or something. Anyway, the Lowa plastics are worth looking at, they seem to have a smaller shell size for the same size boots (smaller than Koflach and Scarpa) which would be nice...the only dislike I have with my invernos (besides being way heavy compared to leather) is that the shells are pretty clunky. For great fit get something that fits in the forefoot, and take a look at orthotics or similar devices...expensive, but the beating it takes off your knees and back, as well as the increase in performance from proper fit is probably worth the money..especially if you're pro-dealing the boots anyway. You'd be amazed at what the orthotic/custom shoe folks can do for you, even if it's just relieving knee/back/ankle pain. Just my thoughts, good luck!

quote: Originally posted by freak: kid rock does suck balls, I seen him on TV cashin in on 9-11 like the rest of the pigs. his producer probably said, "I think it would be a good Idea to drape your self in American Flags it might sell more records" and his rymes are weak. nic The guy has had American flags all over shit way before any planes started hitting buildings. I know for a fact he's got an American flag Dean guitar with phatty sparkle paint. And since he basically produces his own stuff, and has produced for stuff as varied as David Alan Coe, I doubt it was a jump on the money wagon, dude ain't hurtin with multiple platinum records. His rhymes are weak? Hmmm, Snoop don't think so, Sheryl Crow don't think so, Trey Anastasio don't think so, David Alan Coe and Howard Stern don't think so...may not be the best lyricist (not many people stand up to Beasties or Tribe) but combine the production, rhymes, and fuck you attitude and you got yourself a winner. How many rap artists do you see turning freakin Fleetwood Mac tunes into backing tracks for top Billboard hiphop tunes? No? Try "Wastin' Time" charted as a single and backing stuff came from Fleetwood Mac's "Second Hand News". ..."Start an escort service for all the right reasons and set up shop at the top of Four Seasons, buy a yacht wid a flag dat sez chillin tha most, and rock dat bitch up and down tha coast" So fuck off Nic

I just got an order in from Barrabes yesterday, took four business days to arrive...ended up paying about 35% less than I would have here. Placed and order with sportextreme.com yesterday for some cramps and a few pins, Rambo comps for like $115, that's about $60-$70 less than Climbmax's price. Anyone know of any other similar shops? I need some pins and Barrabes doesn't carry much in the way of Camp pins (which are identical to BD in the LA sizes...forged in the same factory in Italy, the "Lost Arrow" name is even forged into the pin so they might paint "camp" on there or BD but otherwise same pin). Barrabes only had one size in stock. You can also get Camp LAs in the US for less than the same BD, but instead of the $13.50 for a BD LA they're about $10. From Barrabes they're more like $6, hell I'd stock up on those just to have them and if money runs short you can sling those things in the valley for $10 each after using them for years and still make a profit. I've got friends with LAs on their rack that are like 15 years old passed down from old codgers who beat on them for a decade.

No, I'd say Pam sucks Kid Rocks balls, and it looks like you be suckin Erik's balls kissass

I want Rachel Babkirk and Maxim Extreme Surfer Chick Malia Jones at the same time and some ice to climb on the 26th would be nice too

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Who thinks I am Pope, Figger Eight, RURP etc? You ain't Pope, I don't know what your avatars are though

"now what does it mean?" "It means I ain't stickin my pee pee in his booty no more" "Good Johny, Jerry Falwell is gonna be so proud"

What you dumbasses need is some freakin KID ROCK! Get your butt rock, hip hop, country, and classic rock all in one sitting...not to mention that he straight represents for white trash America and bends Pam Anderson over. When he says he's in the VIP section, he means he's IN the VIP

Or take a 5 minute step outside break anyway!

Try the Front, and IME (a climbing shop right in the same strip mall as the REI, around 3300 east, 3000 south if I remember right). There's also another gym in SLC, and you might try the employee bulletin boards at Alta/Snowbird or Solitude/Brighton...usually some young guns working at the resorts looking to ice climb on off days.

Easy there Mtngorilla, I was the one with the piss-in-the-tent anecdote, Bone was pissing on the wall. Don't slam the dude for my remarks, in fact until you get fucked on a wall climb by some "furners" because they don't understand the game, don't be harshin on him at all. I seroiusly doubt he's a biggot or xenophobe, but the reality is in the Valley there are ALOT of foreign teams who don't belong on the climbs they are on. I don't have any desire for regulation...if you've got the balls have at it...but I've seen too many belay invasions, and general bungling directly attributable to the "new to the valley" factor. It doesn't even apply strictly to foreign people, I bungled my first season, but add the language barrier and it's more of an issue. Europeans are notorious for invading your belay, and no I don't own the route or the rock, but I also don't want you and your two buddies trying to share a 2ft x 2ft platform with me and clippping an extra 700lb to the anchor while I'm trying to belay and encourage my partner. Sorry for the hostile tone, but until you've experienced it, it's easy to criticize. I determine what makes me feel safe, having an extra half-ton on the anchors doesn't inspire confidence (ridiculous? three 200lb climbers, a 50 lb rack, 30lb more in ropes and another 30 in packs...that's over 700lb). Just my opinion, I could be wrong

Americans are notorious for being slow wankers, that's what...I mean it musta took me 30, 40 minutes to wank yesterday Was I bragging about pissing in their tent? Maybe, but the point was they got less than they deserved. You tell me how you'd feel when you spend 3 hours teaching someone you've never met at their request only to have them pull some shit like cutting in line. If I didn't know I'd get thrown in the Yosemite clink I'd have grabbed that fucker by his hair and dragged his frenchie ass to the back of the line... call me a biggot if you want, I've partnered with French, Germans,Brits, Irish, Koreans, Japanese, and Swiss and had a ropegun frenchie drag my ass up some stuff I'd otherwise never even attempt. I don't care if you're from france, cameroon, or tatooine for that matter, but invading belays and other euro tactics are something akin to me going to the Saxony region of Germany where only soft pro (knotted slings etc) is used and pounding pins, or using white chalk where only colored is permitted, etc, it may be your "way" but it ain't "THE way".

Don't know of a web site, but where are you headed? I might be able to suggest a shop or something where you could try to partner. You could always try the board at The Front (one of the gyms).

Thanks Charlie and Jon! That music galaxy site is the ticket, no firewall issues, tons of music YEAH! Lovin this new 24x CDRW at work.

Caveman, I've heard that shaping the rear bail can help alot with that problem. Erik, you mean offset them as far as protrusion length? Like have the outside point shorter than the inside point?

I think we're about a huge difference between rock routes and apline/snow/ice routes. In addition to all the junk raining on you, a soloist in crampons with axes falling through your team would be ugly, with a rope-chopping possibility. A soloist on rock, however will probably still put a serious hurting on you if they fall into you, but you might get away clean. I had similar expereinces to Lambone on my first trip to the valley. We were behind a slow party on Serenity/Sons and a German/Austrian pair invaded our belay and started clipping into our gear. I promptly clipped the guy to my daisy and unclipped his shit from our gear and told him to clip into something other than our gear or downclimb his ass back to his last piece. I was pissed to say the least. On the other hand, I've had the same deal happen when we were the slow party, a team simuling clipping into a couple of our pieces and the belay...their leader yelled from about a pitch away and asked if they could climb through and clip our gear in the belay anchor. "Sure man, just let me hit the next stance and place a piece before you get to me". They were through us and gone in about 5 minutes. Taking a new partner up Arches, a soloist was coming through with my partner, a fairly new leader, on the shapr end. The guy asked if he could pass, and I just warned him that the guy leading was a novice and let him get to a comfy stance first...no problem. Funny you mention Koreans, what year was that? I did the Lost Arrow tip with a Korean guy and gal in the summer of 2000, and they definitely had that labor division thing going on. Their third member (not climbing with us, shooting pics from the rim) was on the Nose a couple of years before that...apparently with a sizeable team, he ended up sleeping in the haulbag for a couple of nights...guy owns a gym in the burbs of Seoul, is the Korean Prana rep, maybe it was his party you guys saw. They were amazingly friendly, fed me in camp for four or five nights, loaded me up with Soju (a Korean liquor, basically 40 proof vodka flavored with a little plum, it even comes in little juice box style containers for travel!), even sent me a gift when they returned to Korea. Now how's that for hospitality compared to the French guy/gal team that I spent three hours teaching to clean pendulums in camp only to have the assholes cut line on me at the deli and act like they'd never even seen me before...punk ass bitches, I bet that puddle of piss I left in their tent while they were gone the next day was a fun discovery.

I took a good look at these in the shop yesterday, and the front point flares are almost identical to the Rambo comps. Horizontal rails look cool, but they barely put the boot any closer to the ground than the Rambo comps...maybe a 1/4 inch if that much. That point, in addition to more resistance to balling are the selling points of the horizontal rails...since balling problems can be solved with anti-bot it's not much of a selling point IMO. They look like they'd be great ice/mixed/all around but I'd personally choose the rambo comp duals. The short points under mid-foot on the grivels makes the reverse oriented third points actually useful. I'll be ordering some Rambo comp duals this week. The only concern I have with the Grivels is that the replacement front points are crazy expensive...$55 bucks where I checked.