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Everything posted by Dr.E

  1. waste time in a kina perverted way

    what do you mean ronald is perverse? he's the one making the chicken do this stuff.
  2. They've robbed FRED!!!

    Hope they didn't get his phone list.
  3. Soft Shells Suck!

    BD Alpine Pants with capilene lightweights underneath for backcountry ski trips day or weeklong. You can roll up if too hot, they eliminate need for gators to a large extent, plenty of pockets. All at a not so reasonable price. But they last a long time. Just don't climb some crappy chimney in them. [There's no reason to climb a crappy chimney in anything come to think of it. ] Well, anyway, mine have made it several weeks of wear while wind shells seem to get holes in them fairly quickly and after a decade or so the coating comes off the inside all over everything. It's all a temperature regulation thing anyway and these just won't work well for some and will be the answer for others. It is just too bad they are so expensive for people to try and find out.
  4. Johnathan Thesenga busted

    Climbing firing him was good. But... I wonder how he ever made it to 'Editor' and how come they only fired him now? You don't do crap like that on a lark without people at the mag knowing your predisposition right? I mean, it is kind of like hiring the coach at Notre Dame who lied on his resume. Did no one at the magazine bother to check on him or did they turn a blind eye on his aberrant behavior? Or, was this honestly his first offense and they canned him right away before the problem got bigger? I don't know...food for thought.
  5. Which 4WD SUV?

    what is the essential difference between driving an SUV to work and driving a geo metro to work? We draw a line in the sand and say that the amount of fossil fuels consumed by the metro is okay and the SUV isn't. I just don't get it unless a person walks or rides a bike (which I know some do and I very much respect those persons). Do we ever fly to Europe for a climbing trip? Lots 'o fuel consumed there too! Public transportation over there is awesome but they have also 'civilized' (e.g., huts, telepheriques) the mtns which is a choice some wouldn't care for. Oh well, random thoughts.
  6. name that route

    I can't quite decipher if it's been identified yet but Natural's pic from eldo looks like toward the top of yellow spur where you can 5.9 left or 5.10 right after the pin ladder... ???
  7. Funniest/Strangest ever

    Climbed N. side of Hood and camped on top with buddies. First light brought a horde of bumblies clawing their way to the summit. Most interesting was the man-beast in a 1 piece with a matching helmet two-tooling the summit snowfield in short sections pausing frequently to gain composure and or breath. We almost fell off laughing so hard. Same day descending Cooper Spur ran into foam-hatted jeans and flannel guy climbing in work boots with a tent stake in each hand... Another time soloing S. Side of Hood to ski in early 80's...Rope of 16 people and a dog coming out of Pearly Gates. They would move one at a time on separate rope (including the dog who belonged to the obvious leader expert). I overheard him 'instructing' his charges as I passed above them on my way up as to the folly of 'that guy soloing.' Boy did he make me feel the fool... I had lunch on top and they were still descending to the Hog's Back as I gave them a wide berth on the way down.
  8. Test your political savvy for fun...no cheating

    Where do you get "7/12" as the norm? btw, that was my score too. Like my students always say...Trick questions man! Hey, let us take an essay test; the bs factor on this site would easily fill a bluebook don't you think?
  9. Guye South Spur TR

    This getting off story sounds amazingly like my experience in February 1983 when me and a bro did the same route. He took a fall, whacked me in the head on the way by (pre-helmet thinking era) but we kept going up and did the 'traverse' off in the dark. I guess the more things change, the more they stay the same. Glad you have a good memory of your trip like we do.
  10. Test your political savvy for fun...no cheating

    You know, I'm not model but I do pay a lot of taxes. btw, on this page alone I see three quotes you dudes and or dudettes are using for tag lines that are misquoted or misattributed. You should get those right don't ya think? Check your sources not just your alcohol and altitude addled memories...
  11. Report: U.S. Finds Missiles with Chemical Weapons

    I really hope those complaining about this war being "about oil" plan on riding their bike or walking to their next climbing adventure...
  12. Technique or Strength? 5.10-5.12

    You're right on good climbs out of the crack. I'm just talking about the bolt pullers err, clippers that can climb hard stuff but don't know how to place gear. I am looking for sunshine in the winter at smith but still don't see many folks climbing in or out of karate for the most part. seems like there is always a line on heinous cling and ring of fire though.
  13. Technique or Strength? 5.10-5.12

    Funny how you don't see many of the 5.12 climbers sending Karate now a days. Back in the day they warmed up on it. I guess they should put bolts up the side of it. That would preserve the insides of the crack.
  14. sick hard boulder problems

    gotta get me some o dat rumpola. i quittin wearin a belt. hey, thanks for the thumbs down on entiat bros
  15. Fave all time climbs

    1. Arete de Cosmiques/NE Butt of Slesse/NE Butt of Dragontail2. Joe Catellani/Gaston Rebufatt/Fred Beckey3. Chain Reaction/Gervasutti Pillar/Mittleggi Ridge of Eiger All classics in their own right.
  16. magazine suggestion

    I stand corrected on Long. Just read lastest piece in Climbing and he is right on. Check it out. Pagel's piece in same issue is also worth considering if you care about more than yourself.
  17. sick hard boulder problems

    Anyone providing good approach beta on Entiat boulders? Is it on your website Marty? ps. I didn't know it was you living with the bear.
  18. magazine suggestion

    Okay, maybe Long has been dragging it out a bit (too long?). But I think Sherman is funny everytime. Some old material but classic. I don't get tired of climbing Outerspace even though it is a repeat and well below hardest grade--embrace the classics dude. And we owe verm some measure of respect for coming up with the V system.
  19. New pictures up

    Thanks Pope. And thanks Jon for all the work. Pix are one of the things that make this page worth dialing in to.
  20. Good Habbits for a Long Career

    Know your partner. If you are striking up a new relationship, do it on a relatively easy climb and dope the person out.
  21. magazine suggestion

    Wow, I would have kept quiet until Terry started dissing Dr. Doom. Twight's stuff is some of the best reading in climbing. Although I don't want to live my life the way he does, I am very entertained by his stories. I think you need to take it with a grain of salt. Sure the angst is there, but he isn't that bad a guy and he has done a ton of cool stuff that doesn't even get in print. Live in Chamonix, climbed with lots of cool people over there I've met and they are impressed. And euros don't impress that easily. For my money, Sherman, Child, Roberts, and Long are the only climbing authors consistently in the 'good read' category with Mark. That's not to say others aren't good but these guys always put out something you want to finish reading. And be honest, do you NOT read Twight? Or do you read the whole story and then diss on his attitude? If the latter, you've helped him (and his publishers) achieve his purpose.
  22. 3000 Beyotch

    "Trask kiss it I was working on a project!" Is that what the kids are calling it now? congrats neanderthal
  23. People I like on this board

    Is Dan Larson a Mountaineer? If so, that would explain everything. You are all just jealous of him.
  24. Attention Big Wallers and Writers!

    yeah, and now he has 37 posts so neener neener neener. you need to talk nice if you are gonna score a belay slave will.
  25. The Mountaineers SUCK!!

    A further thought: perhaps the mazama death rate stems from them stepping on people's ropes with crampons. Someone less understanding than the gentle, friendly guy than I am might have killed the guy who punctured my rope. Is Heinous a Mazama? Why the scathing reply? If I were a member of one club, I would be careful making fun of the other. Except the WAC of course.