hakioawa

Real ugly but something like. . . . 1) find the index of the second space and select it into a tmp table SELECT pkey, my_column, PATINDEX( '% _ %', my_column) as start, LEN(my_column) as length FROM my_table INTO my_tmp_table 2) now go back UPDATE my_table t SET t.my_column = ( select SUBSTRING(tmp.my_column, tmp.start, tmp.length) + ', ' + SUBSTRING(tmp.my_column, 0, tmp.start) from tmp_table tmp where t.pkey=tmp.pkey)

2 brand new double runners, a nut, a locker an oval, and 3 hero-loops set up as arapel anchor. About 4 feet from a bolted fixe rap anchor on Bugaboo spire.

I think the answer to this question is, it all depends. Somone will note that you can (at least theoretically) create fall factors greater than 2. 20' of rope out w/ no pro from the anchor. The leader falls. Belayer reels in 10' of slack. 30' fall/ 10' or rope = a FF or 3. On the other hand a climber 4 bolts up on a low angle run out bolted slab using a gri-gri. The gear is good so reel away. Then somone will state you want a "dynamic belay" which is kinda the oppisite of reeling in. So I don't think there are any hard and fast rules here. Use you head, and don't fall unless the gear is good. Good gear and dangerous fall consequences (i.e. you will deck) = reel. Sketchy gear and a clean fall = no reel. My $0.02 worth

This has to be a joke right? 700 pounds a day? That's got to be dirt cheap. CMH is something like $1000 a day. Plus who can ski at 20,000' w/o a lot of acclimatization?

I'd like to see your source on this one. I find it hard to believe that an alien has more holding power than a camalot, friend, of metolius fat cam.

Gortext works. But from what I've found it has way less to do with the fabric than the construction. You pay $300 or $400 for a jackey and it dam well better be waterproof, breathable and bomb proof. And thats the thing. If you use gortex its already soo expensive doing things like taping seams and sculpting the jacket to move better is relatively less expensive. When was the last time you saw a gortex jacket w/o taped seams and high quality construction. There are tons of waterproof breathable jackets that do not have these details and sell for $100 or less. They cut corners, and you are left with a lower quality garment. Lookt at the Marmot Precip stuff. I've found it is more breathable an gortex and very well built.

There seemed to be plenty of chickenwire. We didn't do anything on Snowpatch. Had we another day we would have done the route you are thinking of. Everything looked like it was in good condition. A word to the wise. We are not fast. Although we typically go faster than the times found in the Nelson books. The new Mountaneers "Bugaboo rock" has times that I think are right on. The Snowpatch route is 17 pitches I think. So go fast!

Yeah, saw a couple of guys bivying there on saturday night. Also the schrund at bugaboo Snowaptch col was opening up and most of the lower snow was melting fast. Crampons might be a good iead, though we didn't use them.

I was there last weekend. Here is my advice. First if you want to stay in the Kain hut you MUST get reservations. They turned people away last week w/ no tent or stove. As I recall they do not have microwaves but they do have a gas range. They only have a little power for lights and such powered by a little water powered generator. The hut sleep 40 and there are frequently BIG groups. And the boot room smelles like Trask! Nasty. My Applebee is about 800' vertical above the hut. It is closer to Snowpatch, Bugaboo, Eastpoint etc. In my oppioion this is the way to go. It is a BIG open area on the moraine below snowpatch and Bugaboo. The views are fantastic. There in clean water, we drank w/o filtering or boiling for several days w/ no problems. There are plenty of to hunt to keep you bust while not climbing. But they have the big metal proof "trees" to hang you pack. There is also an outhouse. Yes you have to bring a stove and tent. But you will get more sleep up there and the approaches are a bit easier too. The hut is $14 US a night and Mt. Applebee is $4. Also Stay at the "Upper" area for more peace, but a little more exposure. Oh and is you want to get a really early start for houser there are a couple of bivy sites at the base of the Kian route. But these are not as nice as Applebee.

Yeah it'll come back. FOr me the worst has 3 days. But it could take longer. AS longs as its just tingley and not toal numbness I think you'll be fine. Congrats on Dreamer BTW. That one has been on my ticklist for a long time. Wany to lead it for me?

That's in Renton right?

Get your avatar tatooed across you chest. Life size!

Dr. Strangelove

hmmmmmmmm... i guess i should have gone with the heel slipping instead of the smashed toes?? you can stretch a shoes body to some extent, you cannot make it smaller, only compensate with padding. I know this from experience. I got a pair that felt just right in the store. Lost my two big toenails on Baker. I took em back and got 1/2 a size bigger. No heel slippage and a roomy toe box now.

Somone must print up some " Larry the " T-shirts

Three trips in mine. Baker, Bluberry Hill and just got back from the bugaboos. -Tounge material is not water proof -Does not have a raised heel making downhills a bit dicier -Toe is not cramped, just get a bigger pair -Not super warm -Climbs well -soft enough to smear, but still stiff enough -I am questioning thier durability Overall a good cascades boot. 8 out of 10.

I think we need a Chestbeat catergory "Freestyle snaffle hunting." Here is my snaffle hunting rating scheme: s0 - shotgun at 10 feet s1 - trapped in haul bag s2 - Rock trundeled from above s3 - Clubbing w/ a #4 camalot s4 - Overhand ice-tool toss at 20 paces

This weekend a friend and I were in the Bugaboos. We simluclimbed the west ridge on Pigeon spire. Easy 5.4. We were not fast, maybe an hour and 45 miutes to the top? Just as we summited we saw big clouds and heard thunder one basin over and headed our way fast. We litteraly ran off that sucker. No even waiting to un-tie and solo. So we simul-soloed down. Not a smart thing I might add. We passed three groups on the way down. Freaky! I swear I felt my hair start to stand up. Down in 20 minutes. Of course half an hour later the weather cleared and we wished we were un the summit.

I'd say WA pass. You can't have a bad day there. Even if you don't climb the drive is worth it. The only downsoide are the bugs. But just be packed up when you hit the parking lot. Once you are 500' up a trail the bugs are not so bad. Though I've never done it the East butress of South Early Winter Spire it supposed to be fantastic. I'm sure you can get the beta from people here. South Buttress on Cutthroat is good. So is west? buttress on SEWS (can't remember but its like 6-7 pitches up to 5.8). If you have less alpine experience you can always to the Becky route and/or the cave route on concord. And if it rains and all else fails, clip bots in mazama then have a in winthrop.

Where you headed? We're driving to BC, but not sure where yet.

What time? I may have a little time before the long drive to the Bugaboos!

And would it result in a "Boulder Boy Wonder"?

I once new a poser named Trask, who put his dick in a flask. The bottle would rub, on the end of his nub, till caveman could finish the task.

Here's to you Carolyn! Pushing one's self is the very essence of climbing. I know people who don't want to climb much because they can't climb 5.11 (I can't). But I've always had much more respect for somone getting on the sharp end and pushing them selves to do a 5.8 sport route than climbing a 5.11 that is well within thier ability. I did my first free solo this weekend. Nothing much, but it added a huge mental crux to the climb. Felt great, though I don't think I'll do that too often. Pushing one's self is one thing. Pushing your luck is another. Good job! You

Yeah. We bailed early. Too bad. The decent was, lets say "sporting"! We rapped a bunch and other than some tangled ropes, no problems. I pulled so had once to get the rope unstuck that when it did I fell backwards. Luckily there was a bunch of vegitation below me, not a cliff. By the time we got down to the the little cliff above the pool (where that little cedar tree makes a nice ladder) the route was mostly dry. We were a but pissed by that point. How'd it go for you guys?