slothrop

Pissed off the locals.

I'd go back every weekend if it'd piss you off more

I will bring aiders and such on every route in case I can't top out on an established free climb. Rappelling is for newbs from Seattle.

We three did the first pitch of Cruisin' before YW. Walk right on a grassy ledge to the bolts and you can rap. Joseph wanted to see if you could make it with a 60m rope, as he'd heard someone say you could. It's not a great rappel, but you can, in fact, do it. Say, if you have to bail for whatever reason. I'll be sure to pre-approve all rappels with you, kevbone, from now on.

He emptied a bucket full of chains onto the parking lot that day. I don't care too much one way or another how the anchors are set up, as long as I can rap without thinking I'm going to die or kill someone below me. What "slab" are you talking about? There are two huge rap bolts on Cruisin' and the rappel takes you down away from the line of the route, so what's the problem?

What, you mean after the blank corner with the two pins? Routefinding didn't look that hard, but that's hindsight for ya. I see what you mean about the genuine experience, though.

I'm having trouble reading any of the words near the sculpted powder-blue region of this page. Is that the "hip belay" that the dude is giving the girl in the "Climbing Rocks" t-shirt?

Aha. I saw "PMR" written on something your partner was carrying and I thought you looked familiar, what with your smooth chrome face and everything.

Oh, dammit. My TR template accidentally got filled in with "Beacon" and "Young Warriors" instead of "Leavenworth" and "Outer Space". Were you there Sunday? I met a few folks, but try to refrain from the "Who are you on cc.com?" conversation while in the real world.

I guess I could do with some reading comprehension exercises. Gary, are you still teaching those? Didja rap the route and leave slings on trees?

OMFG where is your helmet!? Nice job! Is the Granite Sidewalk area to climber's right of this route?

Climb: Beacon Rock-Young Warriors Date of Climb: 9/24/2006 Trip Report: JosephH and a genuine local named Jim graciously showed me around Beacon Rock on Sunday. I'm posting a TR of a cragging trade route because it was lots of fun and I was impressed with Beacon. If you haven't climbed Young Warriors, it's worth a trip to Beacon by itself. I'd go back for sure, especially since Joseph only let me lead the first pitch The rock is great, even on the slightly less solid second pitch, the climbing is varied, and it goes pretty much to the top of the Rock in six pitches. Belays are comfy (especially the first!) and pro is good. Joseph and Jim care a lot about the place and it shows. They've built incredible belay ledges out of moss and rocks, camoflaged the bolts, kept "historical" pins in place, and not scrubbed huge streaks in the rock. Unrelated to YW: If necessary, you can rap from the fat Metolius bolts on the right side of the ledge atop the first pitch of Cruisin' with a single 60m. Gear Notes: Two 50m ropes for a party of three Rack to 2.5" Ten single runners Ropegun and living guidebook Approach Notes: Construction on Hwy 14 west of Beacon might slow you down

Everyone should join ropes and climb OS together at the ropeup in one giant clusterfuck-chain. If you get enough people, you could run the ropes together in a loop from top to bottom and make a frickin' conveyor belt. CBS, start calculating how much rope we need.

Come to daddy.

Nice try, Dru.

I'm looking for a partner for the Portland area Sunday: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=605476

Due to family obligations, I'm down in Portland this weekend and I'd love to get out for a day of cragging on Sunday. I've never been to the local crags, but would be keen to check out Beacon. I've got a car, but no rack, just my personal gear. I'm leading around the low 10s Index-style and am happy to flail harder while following. Ralph 206.226.3299

Yeah, the lack of landmarks would really get to me, I think. I love the tent kite. It looks like they ran into other groups out there and had some sweatlodge parties in the tent or something. It's fun not knowing the story behind the photos and just making up stuff in your head...

Oh yeah!

http://www.nytimes.com/aponline/us/AP-Roadless-Forests.html It sounds like Bush's policy was to force states to request that the federal government not allow roads to be built on their FS land, instead of disallowing road building by default. Sounds bass-ackwards to me. But "let the states decide" makes for a good sound bite.

Chuck, wherezat? I went with my fiancee to SCW:

I stumbled across some photos taken by Andy Kirkpatrick on the Hands and Feet Across Greenland expedition. Some pretty cool shots of endless icecap, sunsets, and what looks like an abandoned base straight out of The Thing.

Daaaaaammmmnnn. A little transatlantic woody-measuring contest we got goin here. Where is the adjustable crack? That's whatcha need. Offwidth to fingertips with a few turns of the wrench.

Got a look at this route from on top of White Slabs yesterday, appears to be nicely featured rock. To get there from White Slabs, do most people go down and squeeze between the trees and the 20-foot detached spike on Country Club Ramp? It's too bad that White Slabs ends at the Ramp, since the obvious way to the top (the Ramp) is so filthy. There's decent climbing in those corners on White Slabs and it's pretty clean for being in the shadow of OS and Orbit. Any of you SCW aficionados do White Slabs Direct? Looks scaaary. Oh, one more question: Is there in fact a fixed rap station above the finger crack of Shark Attack? That finger crack looks awesome, but I'm not up for the supposed runout 11b above.

You'll be looking just like that redneck grandma in 20 years, so don't get too full of yourself, bucko. You've already got the greasy bun thing going. It's 90% reliable for me to assume that a Washington driver is in the left lane if there are two of them. Okanagan is pretty redneck. The two biggest stores downtown sell guns and bibles.