Dwayner

[ 06-20-2002, 01:28 AM: Message edited by: Dwayner ]

June 18th...anticipated an ordinary night by ordinary standards. Just another Tuesday with its Mickey’s induced hangover from breakfast at the bowling alley at 0:dark 30. Messages checked on the internet....the usual stuff...Viagra spam...Nigerian get-rich schemes...and a message from an unknown elementary school classmate who just “discovered” me and wants to talk about all the good times I don’t care to remember. Then to cc.com. The usual cc.com pub club venue fight is still in full swing. When this Pub Club thing started, I was heavily berated as a big wussy when I called attention that in all fairness, it was Tacoma’s turn. Now “the struggle” is a weekly occurrence. The Alki, a.k.a. “The House of Hikerwa”, and Hooters, were dismissed. Hooters is OK, but I think that orange and white is an annoying color scheme for its busty babes. And they are also way too flirtatious...they act as if all they are interested in is a big tip. But that’s neither here or there. A place called the Eastside Zoo was proclaimed although it is nowhere near the zoo and it is on the westside of both the Cascades and I-5. Rumors of a smoky environment nearly kept me at home, but I took the dare and drove north. MattP’s directions were as sharp as his legal mind and I quickly reached my destination. Within moments, I knew this would indeed be no ordinary night. As I approached the front door of the tavern, a blonde feller wearing dark sunglasses dropped a lavender silk hankerchief at might feet. I pointed it out to the guy and he winked at me as he bent over to pick it up. It was Brad Pitt. “What’s he doing here?” I thought. Inside, things were happening. Keanu Reeves was kicking the crap out of the bar and breaking up some furniture. Brad and Keanu had just had some sort of nasty argument. The bartender didn’t seem to mind because all he wanted was an autograph. A familiar face in the corner sarcastically told me, “Hey Dwayner...your little climbing pals are upstairs...why don’t you climb up there and find them and talk about climbing and plan some climbing trips, Mr. Climber guy!” It was Molly Ringwald. We broke up a number of years ago over a trip I made to The Tooth. It was her birthday. I forgot. Big deal. The Brad/Keanu fight had something to do with her. One was cheating or something...none of my dang business. “Finish your breakfast, Molly”, I said as I waved her off. Just then...a commotion outside. A limo pulled up. Brad instinctively walked to its door and was surprised to find that neither the limo nor a horde of excited papparrazi were interested. It was AlpineK making his usual appearance. K strolled nonchalantly into the Zoo, passing Molly who blurted out a quick and desperate, “Kurt! I’m sorry!”. K headed toward the upstairs drinking loft. “Finish your breakfast, Molly!”, he responded without even looking. The bar manager kicked out the photographers and I followed The Alpine One where I was greeted by a mix of mountaineering celebrities, the likes of which I have never seen assembled at one place and at one time, EVER! A veritable who’s who of all that climbs. Dave Shuldt; bicycle-honed and beer-ready...MattP looking erudite in his suspenders...David Parker, who swam across Puget Sound to attend...Hikerwa, who bravely forsook his greasy Alki biker burgers to join in the mix...hardman Joe....pflepflepfle, speaking in a strange Icelandic dialect...Tacoma’s own Erik....Did I mention that Fendel was there? And the ladies? Both the mysterious and exotic Holly Climber and the delightful Jules, complete with raccoon eyes from a recent ascent of Mt. St. Helens. Both were able to abandon their pooches for the evening and make a well-appreciate appearance. And there was Ehmmic, glowing with Yosemite light and, of course, the enchanting “v”. Along with the future Mrs. MattP. And Allison was there, radiant in green. There’s a good chance I missed several people in the line-up. There were oh so many and the beer was flowing speedily, to say the least. (Make yourselves known and I’ll edit you into the report.) In short, the venue was less smokey and more fun than anticipated. There were shuffleboards that got a lot of action, and pool tables, and eye candy everywhere. I finally left after midnight and the place was still rockin’. Not bad! It looked like this: Almost as good as the one in Tacoma a few weeks ago! - Dwayner...telling his side of the story.

[ 06-20-2002, 01:29 AM: Message edited by: Dwayner ]

I assume that "the boner" to which you refer would be that of Mr. Puget. He's a handsome guy, but he ain't my type.

"Read: Robinson, Chouinard, Messner." Please add Doug Scott to the list. - Dwayner

I'm not a member of any of these organizations and don't intend to join any. I participate in cleaning up the crags and mountains as I enjoy them and I teach my students to do the same and encourage others as well. Everyone can do their part without joining a group or club. So don't expect to see me at any of these meetings or outings...it ain't my thing. It doesn't mean that I'm not contributing nor uninterested. That will cost you an extra-long hug...30 seconds at least, and I'll be holding the stop-watch.

[ 06-20-2002, 03:03 AM: Message edited by: Dwayner ]

Mr. Noggin say: "I notice the ones that spew endlessly about that nasty bolt some where on an unseen crag are the same ones that don't give back to climbing, they just take from it and spray bout ethics. I don't see them at cleanups, trail projects or belonging to access groups." How would you know such a thing? If we don't attend the same meetings or outings as you, and aren't personally recognized by you, than you know that we aren't giving back???!!! You probably couldn't pick me out of a line-up and vice-versa. "I personaly see them as the biggest threat to our access." I personally see unrestrained bolting and undereducated climbers as the biggest threat to our access. As I've stated before, if I were the land manager of the disaster at Vantage, I would ban climbing at least until some sort of restraint (preferably self-imposed) was initiated. Anyway, you need a beer. go ahead, it's free ah shucks, there's more where that came from Give me them things!

Brother Erik-Dawg wrote: "I CONSIDER 'OLD' ANY PERSON WHO IS SO SET WITHIN THEIR WAYS THAT THEY REFUSE TO ACCEPT CHANGE FOR BETTER OR WORSE. PEOPLE WHO CANNOT AND REFUSE TO ACCEPT THAT THERE IS AND WILL BE ATLEAST TWO SIDES TO EVERY ISSUE." Just because there may be many sides to an issue, doesn't mean that they are equally valid. With apologies for the drama, I'll use an extreme example unrelated to climbing to make the point: I can read all of the National Socialist literature there is, and "understand" their viewpoint, but I can also refuse to accept their "changes" and condemn their policy of exterminating Jews and others. So if that fits your definition of "old", I am ancient!!! shalom, Dwayner-dawg

[ 06-20-2002, 03:03 AM: Message edited by: Dwayner ]

Attention ICEGIRL. One of your...uh, I mean, many of your biggest fans are awaiting your appearance at Pube Club this evening. Ditch that dog for the evening and visit your groupies! sincerely and on behalf of your many admirers, - Dwayner P.S. I hear pope is buying flowers and several other dudes are pitching in for a limo ride with a hot tub and a giant box of candy shaped like a carabiner.

So who's got directions to Hooters? What time does this all begin?

Hey Sport-Bolters and Sport-Hangdoggers! Here's a little flash from the past that was inspirational to me when I started climbing. Substitute the word "pitons" with "bolts" and I think it's just as relevant today as it was in 1972 when it appeared in the Chouinard Catalog. These are just excerpts; read the whole thing at: Clean Climbing "THE WHOLE NATURAL ART OF PROTECTION" - by Doug Robinson “There is a word for it and the word is clean. Climbing with only nuts and runners for protection is clean climbing. Clean because the rock is left unaltered by the passing climber. Clean because nothing is hammered into the rock and then hammered back out, leaving the rock scarred and the next climber's experience less natural. Clean because the climber's protection leaves little track of his ascension. Clean is climbing the rock without changing it; a step closer to organic climbing for the natural man... Using pitons on climbs like the "Nutcracker" is degrading to the climb, its originator and the climber. Robbins must have been thinking of that climb when he wrote, "Better that we raise our skill than lower the climb." Pitons have been a great equalizer in American climbing. By liberally using them it was possible to get in over ones head and by more liberally using them, to get out again. But every climb is not for every climber; the ultimate climbs are not democratic. The fortunate climbs protect themselves by being unprotectable and remain a challenge that can be solved only by boldness and commitment backed solidly by technique. Climbs that are forced clean by the application of boldness should be similarly respected, lest a climber be guilty of destroying a line for the future's capable climbers to satisfy his impatient ego in the present — by waiting he might become one of the future capables. Waiting is also necessary; every climb has its time, which need not be today. Besides leaving alone what one cannot climb in good style, there are some practical corollaries of boldness in free climbing. Learning to climb down is valuable for retreating from a clean and bold place that gets too airy. And having the humility to back off rather than continue in bad style — a thing well begun is not lost. The experience cannot be taken away. By such a system there can never be "last great problems" but only "next great problems."... Carried out, these practices would tend to lead from quantitative to qualitative standards of climbing, an assertion that the climbing experience cannot be measured by an expression of pitches per hour, that a climb cannot be reduced to maps and decimals. That the motions of climbing, the sharpness of the environment, the climber's reactions are still only themselves and their dividends of joy personal and private.” [ 06-18-2002, 09:57 AM: Message edited by: Dwayner ]

A few words for Brother JayB: "Right on! Keep believing that, and by all means keep on ranting! What the Taliban did for Islam, you can do for the anti-bolting contingent! Who else could take a postition that might possibly resonate with the vast majority of climbers who clip bolts and make it a truly marginal crusade that only appeals to a dwindling number of fringe dwelling zealots! Bravo!" Dude! Don't you think it's a bit much comparing fervent anti-bolting views with the Taliban? One oppresses and murders people and is associated with a major world religion. The other is a viewpoint about a an activity [climbing] which in the big picture is a generally selfish and meaningless pursuit and the product of a leisure society. I would disagree that views that advocate bolting restraint are marginal...in fact, I think they are growing, and even if the viewpoints were held only by a minority, does that invalidate them? "Actually, I agree that most climbers aren't aware of the fact that there are ethical considerations that they should take into account before placing bolts in the rock, and that more should be done to promote awareness of this issue." See, we do agree. "However, until you tone down the rhetoric, attempt to build consensus on this issue through a judicious compromise or two, and/or advocate sensible restraints on bolting instead of an outright ban, the only thing that your ranting will get from the vast majority of climbers that you have effectively alienated from your cause is a good chuckle or a dismissive shrug." Dude! You obviously are not familiar with my viewpoints. I don't want to ban bolting. Bolts have their place, but they should be rare. They should be the exception rather than the rule. (In sport-climbing, unfortunately, they are the rule.) Given their permanence, each bolt should be an ethical decision and they should be used with the utmost restraint. And yes, by this definition, the majority of sport climbs, in my opinion, are illegitimate. Am I stopping anyone from sport-climbing? No. I hope, though, by my style of advocacy or yours, that someday sport-climbing will be perceived in the history of climbing as a brief, conceited, self-indulgent period between the acknowledgement of a need for a clean-climbing ethic (in the 70's) and a new enlightment that once again sees climbing in a "leave as few traces as possible" ethic. By the way, I don't know where you get your statistics regarding "the vast majority of climbers that you have effectively alienated from your cause." I don't think even a small minority of climbers have ever heard of me or read cc.com. Anyway...carry on, and have a beer: - Dwayner I'll have one too. [ 06-17-2002, 11:25 PM: Message edited by: Dwayner ]

[ 06-20-2002, 03:02 AM: Message edited by: Dwayner ]

[ 06-20-2002, 03:01 AM: Message edited by: Dwayner ]

What the hell is a "leader treat"?

"dennish, retro, dwayer, pope and all the other conservatives shoud shut up. we have heard their tired diatribe and in some ways i feel that theur continual tired banter takes away from contructive thinking in this situation." This ain't the Erik I respect. (Are there two of them?) We aren't gonna shut up and will continue to share our viewpoint until every gym rat and grid bolter understands that bolting is a genuine issue. You might not like our style, but are you really interested in stifling free expression? - Dwayner P.S. In all that talk about music and changing times, I saw no mention of Kenny G. What up wid that?

If Alpine K's chronology be correct, it ain't Tacoma's turn until next week. So pick your dang venue for tomorrow and I'll confer with the experts down here re. T-town's extravaganza next week.

How's this. If it's Tacoma's turn, we pick the venue in Tacoma or elsewhere. I guess that would be me, Fast Eddie, Erik, mtnrgr and whatever locals who are potential hosts down here. I ain't gonna sit in a bar by myself in Tacoma because all the "big explorers" in Seattle won't drive south. MattP...how about some judicial insights to avert another "where we gonna drink" crisis?

You are all wrong. The correct answer is: d) SEND THEM TO BIG LOU. 'ain't nothin' a little Mt. Rainier can't fix!

What would you do if your child came home one day and said, "Mom...Dad...I'm a sport-climber."? a) ask yourself, "where did we go wrong?" b) seek counseling individually or as a family. c) love 'em anyway. d) send 'em to Big Lou e) all of the above

D-Dawg ain't plannin' nothin no mo. If Erik or some other local don't step up to the plate but soon, I say do it somewhere or else or skip it.

"Basically – I agree bolted cracks are a NO! NO!" This whole bolting discussion has sure taken a tame turn since the exuberant "debates" of last year stimulated by the chopping of Dan's Dreadful Direct, etc. Instead of accusations of rock rape etc., now it sounds like we be getting: "Bolts are bad for the environment and other fragile things." "Oh my heck! What's with all of the bolts?"

They're still cleaning up the mess from the riot they had at the Tacoma pub club a few weeks ago. Too many climbers + too much alcohol = a formula for destruction. I think in the future that the Tacoma police are going to limit our group size to a maximum of 75 in the city.