specialed

Cathedral Spires / Half Dome - all in shade. Not enough? try the friggin Toulumne Meadows jack. Or go the eastside and climb mad alpine granite like Mt. Whitney. Go son go.

quote: Originally posted by rayborbon: Fred Beckey is\was a mountaineer so shut up Whatever. He probably started the friggin mountaineers and now regrets it.

The only burn I got was from falling over drunk into the campfire when a certain camper returned from an innocent run to "Der Safeway" with inordinate amounts of alcoholic beverages. Instead of turning in early in preperation for some serious L-worth cranking our happy little campfire turned into full-blown monster-truck rally WWF smackdown craziness. Surfey was burned at the stake and buried at sea. Bridge Creek campground was rockin'! Needless to say, all failed redpoint attempts on Sunday can be attributed to the previous nights debaucheries and/or the distinct higher gravity levels in the area that day.

Do they serve Mickey's??

10d 10d 10d 10d, or 5.9+

Shouldn't you be on your way to Smith?

Erik I know you stole my shoes.

What's the word on Tieton bird closures? worth going out there this time of year with Royal Collumns being closed?

Don't you need a secret handshake to get in the clubhouse?

quote: Originally posted by Anna: Broaden my horizons Dru! I am from Montana, so you all will need to show me what this beautiful area has to offer! Go back to Montana, take a left. Stop when you get to the sign that says Canadian Rockies.

Anyone who complains about mountaineers cluttering up their crag are climbing in the wrong place. I wouldn't climb anywhere the mtneers would and they wouldn't climb anywhere I would. In my experience organized climbing groups like the mtneers do more bullshitting about climbing than actually climbing. They sit around talking about their bylaws and meeting minutes and shit instead of doing anything productive. But if they don't bother me, I don't bother them. So I don't really care what they do.

All that shit at Saskatchewan crossing was shut down for the season. We stayed at the Canadian Alpine CLub hostel in LAke Louise. It was like 16 US / night. It was pretty fat with a good kitchen, etc. but they jacked the heat in those rooms up so damn high at night I felt like I was in Death Valley in August!! EGhe! But there was a couple hostels up the icefields parkway we didn't check out, but I heard they're ghetto. Oh yeah, the local bar in GOlden hosts a new stripper every Monday. Its a big deal in Golden, I suggest attending if you want to check out the local culture.

I'm sure in the great vortex of lost goods my shoes are hanging out with Erik's book. Chuck, if you went to look for them I would be eternally grateful. And yes we should have packed before we packed, I've got an issue with leaving my 43, not 34 shoes, at the crag - this isn't the first time.

It seems I had a senior moment last weekent at Vantage and left a pair of size 34 LaSPortiva CObras at the Middle-east wall around the base of Jihad. If anyone is going out there in the next couple days and wouldn't mind looking for them and bringing them back to Seattle or E-burg they will be duly rewarded with atleast a 6-pack of fine ales. They're probably gone by now, but its worth a shot.

It seems I had a senior moment last weekent at Vantage and left a pair of size 34 LaSPortiva CObras at the Middle-east wall around the base of Jihad. If anyone is going out there in the next couple days and wouldn't mind looking for them and bringing them back to Seattle or E-burg they will be duly rewarded with atleast a 6-pack of fine ales. They're probably gone by now, but its worth a shot.

quote: Originally posted by moonchild: PS. You mean there are actually other climbers down south here!?!?!? Yes, when they're not in jail or getting busted on COPS. Dwayner, is it true you're booking Britney Spears for a celebrity cameo appearance at Pub CLub next week, ala Fred Beckey?

The advantage to using one skinny rope doubled as opposed to the "glacier" approach is that its quick and easy which is usually the goal when simul-climbing. Coiling up slack and measuring rope takes too much time, even if you get a little bit of added safety.

Get a 50m 8mm double it up and use it as a twin rope. Its light, your wife will be close enough to complain and you can rap 25m.

If you don't know, then I'm definetly not going to tell you.

quote: Originally posted by pindude: I'd gladly buy up those stickers if I still didn't have so many unused ones dating back to the early 90's. -pindude Sad bro, sad. Good thing or I'd have to laugh at your ass when I saw you at the crag. As for their lame catalog. The best thing about those is the photos of real climbers out doing cool shit, like the PAtagucci catalog. Look at BD's Winter 01/02, almost every photos from some dumb photo shoot of pro climber / models sporting all the trendy gear and clothing and pre fab BD stickers on their immaculate brain buckets. That's not cool, there's no soul there. That's not down with real climbing. Lame I tell you, LAME! [ 03-26-2002: Message edited by: specialed ]

quote: Originally posted by pindude: Never seen a J. Crew catalog (who buys that stuff, anyway), but sellout? No way. BD has always made stickers, given out liberally by their folks. Guess now they are offering them as a regular item for order. pin This doesn't seem like a fat sellout to you?

Even Steven next to Toxic Shock. Just don't fall in the wrong place and impale yourself on the rock spike off the ledge.

Is it me or is the BD catalog looking more and more like J. a Crew catalog with ice tools. And now you can buy your own helmut sticker pack for only $9.95. Sellout?

To an extent its a good argument that even though BD covers a range of sizes you often want multiples so it don't matter that BDs have a good range. That argument makes more sense for cragging but in the mountains you're usually going light and not climbing at your hardest level where you want multiple sizes. That's where BDs range makes the most difference. Also sometimes you just want to strap it on take a skinny rack and go for it.

Man I hate that helpless feeling when you're caught in a slide or rock/ice fall and there isn't shit you can do but move your ass out of the way as fast as humanly possible and hope it doesn't hit you.